+1 to using a hydrometer. Did you put the recipe in beersmith or some other software? What was your expected FG? Also, when you transfer to secondary, you are removing the beer from the yeast. So there shouldn't be any activity in the secondary. It may be possible that you transferred too soon...
Ok, I took your ^^^^^ advice. My regulator was a gift (it's old) from a buddy that distributes CO2 and it only goes down to about 12 psi, but I can adjust it at the distributor too.
You may be right on the sanitation side, but I'd be more concerned with IBUs. If you add water after the boil you mess with the hops. But I'm a hophead so you may not be concerned. I have heard you can overchill so be careful on that side too.
I just had this problem too, except mine is a sort of discoloration (like you would see in a sheen) in the bottom of my BK and up the sides. Is that the same as what you saw?:mad:
I recently made NB's Oatmeal Stout (AG). I just kegged it last Friday (6 days ago). Here's the bill:
6.5 lbs English Maris Otter
1 lb Flaked Oats
0.5 lb English Roasted Barley
0.5 lb English Chocolate Malt
0.5 lb English Dark Crystal
1 oz. Glacier (60 min)
Safale S-04 Ale Yeast
I...
Turn pressure down to 10 psi. If your perls are in the hot garage, that could cause foam right at the beginning, but should clear up on the second pour. What's the temp of your kegerator? Are your lines cold enough?
IMO, kegging is the way to go if you're drinking at home. Not as difficult or involved as bottling, just need an extra fridge (Craigslist). If you want to share with your friends, just invite them over OR get a growler and distribute. There's no greater feeling than being able to have your...
I wouldn't cold crash if I was bottling. You want a little yeast to take care of the priming sugar and carbonate your bottles. However, if you do cold crash one day when you decide to keg your beer, here's how I do it: If you have a kegerator, stick the carboy in there and crash at kegging...