Another helpful data point would be exposed wort surface area of your kettle. More surface area leads to a higher rate of evaporation.
I put a pot on top of my wort during boil and it decreases evaporation and energy consumed as less surface area requires less energy to make the wort boil...
Issue with your wiring diagram is you have to have neutral tie directly to each heat/cool source. Cannot go through fan.
If you have two fans that would be easiest. Parallel a fan off of heat source, and other fan off of cool source.
If you only have one fan you would need (2)120VAC relays...
The LSG also has an article on the investors of MBC:
Michigan Brewing Co. investors left with questions (In hindsight, some say fate was obvious)
Sad to see it go.
The SSR is a solid state relay that allows a low current rated device to control a high current load. In typical usage as a kettle element heater controller the PID (lowcurrent rated device) signals the SSR to allow power to the high current draw element to maintain a temperature.
My PID for...
A PID would be the wrong type of control for a freezer. It would short cycle the compressor and burn it out pretty quickly.
There are cheap ebay controllers that work well for freezer temp control, they include short-cycle protection timers. I use the STC-1000 and it's been working great...
I did this one with parts from Walmart, easy and probably one of the cheapest routes. If you're planning on using it for both heating/cooling make sure you break the tab on the receptacle. He has wiring pictorial on post #5 if you're interested...
Another option is to wire a low power rated toggle switch to switch the 120VAC coil of this 2-pole contactor (which would be wired to the heating element) for a less expensive option:
Grainger 6GNZ2
That contactor is rated for 30A resistive load, no problem for a 5500W heater. There is a...
It's a 1-1/4" hole for mounting an element. Kal's site goes over a whole installation pretty extensively. Even supplying part numbers and places to get them. Have to go through about 10 pages of instructions and there are a lot of nice pictures too...
I just got one of these in the mail and checked it out. Just a note, I ordered the packaged PID+40A SSR+Thermocouple 24VAC option from the ebay seller and they shipped me the 120V option. Didn't matter to me, I can make it work either way and I saved a whole dollar!
The 'CF' setting only...
Or add all of your useful info to the wiki as a type of fermentation cabinet? Maybe add a Refrigerator/Freezer type cabinet and detail the setup of the cheap controller in there.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fermentation_cabinet
I know that's what I'll do if I want to make...