Recent content by tizoc

Fermentis just released a dried brettanomyces bruxellenesis SafBrew™ BR-8

Using yeast to deoxygenate and adding sulfites is easier than capping and underletting! You may have to be a bit careful with sulfites if you don't have a good way to oxygenate your wort at pitching time, but deoxygenating the water with yeast is IMO the easiest part (and the first LODO...

In my case, I prepare the water in one kettle, with the yeast in there, then I heat it to strike temperature when ready and get the water into the mash kettle (underlet), so in my case most of the yeast stays in the first kettle. I then get the wort back into the original kettle for boiling. I...

Any reason for not using the YOS method instead of boiling? to me at least it is far less work.

Thank you. For the hibiscus-tea methods, for how long do you steep?

Hey @Dustin_J, do you remember how much hibiscus did you use? and when did you add it? kettle? fermenter? I plan to want to brew a Gose with hibiscus, but I for the hibiscus additions I am bit lost.

Well, that is interesting. I hate S-04, and every time I try it again, I end disappointed. I remember that when I searched some info about that horrible flavor, one of the things I found was a bunch of your posts saying how you hated it. I always fermented it at 18C or lower, because that is...

1) probably not, you may be pitching it later, but you are pitching a far higher amount. It is the only method I have ever used, so I cannot really compare, but with this method I get pretty good sourness quickly. Btw, when making sours I always try to ferment at about 20C or more (or at least...

@ryking13 next time take some wort from the end of your mash or boil to make a lactobacillus starter with it, then pitch it into the fermenting beer 24 hours later. I use the method described here and never had a problem: Sour beer - Brewing Forward wiki (with recommended calcium carbonate...

@Protos do you have a link to that thread? I am interested. (Edit: found it) Somebody once told me something similar, that after the first generation it started to behave better. But also that when he tried to use a starter, it didn't work, so one had to "sacrifice" a batch to get the "good...

I used M54 only once, found it to be far mor estery than K-97 (which to me is very clean at 16C), and it's krausen didn't look like what I remember K-97's krausen looks like. I didn't like M54 at all. After a long time of not being able too find it, I recently got some packets of K-97, but I...

That would be "both US-05 and 1056" right?

The yeasts we are comparing all have similar expected attenuation right? I don't think we can use attenuation to discriminate between them here (also, it will depend a lot on process and grist). 1.043-1.007 (83% AA), grist was 92% Castle Pils, 5.5% Weyermann Carahell, 2.5% Castle Acid, step mash.

Back to M54, they advertise the 18C-20C range, but I see that Mauribrew 497 has a 12-20C range (see: https://www.homebrewing.org/assets/images/PDF/Mauribrew_LAGER497.pdf), with the low-end of the range getting you the more neutral profile you would expect in a lager beer, and the higher range...

Check the specs, don't you think M66 looks closer to M44 than M42? not sure what you are disagreeing with. I am not claiming it is one or the other. M42: M44: M66: Since they didn't either deny or confirm, I wouldn't use it as evidence of the yeast being the same (or not being the...