Recent content by SleepySamSlim

Grinder posted his recipe --- I'm a little leery of the peat ..... but how about some recipe posts on other Mild Ales

Not sure what brand you have - my Brewcraft plastic primary has been thru 3 batches of amber - dark brown ale - and Blonde Ale and is still white ...

Oh yeah --- I used to love me a good IPA back in 1998 - 2000 or so, but the the taste buds have made a retreat from hoppy-land. And the growing hopitization of all brews (esp American origin) is a clear and present danger for those of us who go for a more balanced or milder brew. And a...

Good feed back ---- I think the quote above would speak to most "issues" folks might have - yeast age - acceptable SG range of your brew - and probably add temperature and you have a lot of variables that new or careless brewers might encounter

I'm a keep it simple guy and have been brewing my first batches with dry yeast. Now attempting some clones and they call for liquid yeast -- yes I can get a close match with a dry --- but I'm considering trying a liquid. One of our local brew shops sells Wyeast Activator "smack-paks" but...

You mentioned LME in your post --- recipe has DME. Are you converting it to DME or going LME. Just curious After your grains are done soaking -- pull them out and give them a good squeeze with some tongs to get all the good stuff out. Crank the heat to get to a good boil going...

No need to cry over split beer --- at this point you've still got beer and its gonna continue to ferment a bit and continue to settle out. You can go 2 or 3 weeks in secondary. Take a reading at 2 week point -- but mainly leave it alone. I tend to cover my carboy to reduce and light (sunlight)...

Your SG is ok - its at the high end for a Blonde ale. You normally want to toss the yeast at 75 deg or lower -- but seems you're fermenting ok. I always rack to a secondary when the fermentation levels off after a few days (but this varies from each recipe) -- your best bet is to spend...

Parting thought from a science point of view --- seem to recall doing several labs in college measuring dissolved oxygen in water --- at high temperatures a liquids ability to absorb and hold oxygen is reduced quite a bit. So if you're going to do any shaking or sloshing its best to do it after...

Process we use is simple --- assuming you've racked into a secondary --- put carboy up on counter and get the priming mix boiling. Sanitize everything --- start siphon to the clean bucket --- at about 1/4 full dump in the priming sugar and keep the siphon going. Everything will be mixed when the...

Local brew shop guy is a science and chemistry type dude ... his take is all the shaking - pouring - etc will gain you at most an increase of 8ppm oxygen as most of our atmosphere is nitrogen. Only way to really increase oxygen is with a pure oxygen and a stone. To each his own .....:rockin:

for what its worth - I'm doing a fat tire clone from the recent copy of BYO which has a 150 clone recipes in it --- they also are using a liquid yeast White Labs WLP051. Talked with the brew shop and he's recommending Danstar Windsor - you might try that. I got into brewing this last...

A Buzz:drunk:

-soak bottles in favorite solution -drink 3 - 4 beers -crank up ipod - insert ear buds - cue up some rock or blues -open another beer and use a plastic kitchen scraper -keep breakage to a minimum:ban:

Yeah - beats me too :drunk: I've got 3 books from current and classic authors and beyond the basics none of them agree on process(es) - shaking - pouring back and forth - don't touch it - wait 1 week - wait 2 weeks - watch the bubbles - 68 deg - 70 deg ........ Hell --- there is a whole...