Recent content by short_mark

Are you using the stock / standard gasket on the outside as well? Can't tell from the pictures, but if you are, not sure you will need the silicone o-ring on the inside. The real test in any event is, does it leak? If not I would suggest heating away. Insulation looks great. Did you use...

Please note time and I will fairly state I have had a few imperial pints.... Thursday, SWMBO walked into my project spot, looked at the tangle of wire and kit I am building and said, "you really love doing this stuff." All true. So I will gladly offer my experience, pics of my current panel...

I encountered a similar issue. Since I had purchased too few weldless fittings for my whole rig, I chose to add the new soldered weldless bulkhead from Bargain Fittings for my MLT. It sealed tight from the first install, and, even after repeated use, has been leak free.

+1 to bad coffee In addition, I would highly recommend a trip to HD and the purchase of a quality multimeter. If you are going full barrel, and I assume commercial, you will certainly need to troubleshoot lots of system vagaries over time. A multimeter will be your new best friend. Also...

I purchased two of the SS prototypes. Mine were also a little goofy out of the box. I needed an extra wrap of tape on both in and out to achieve a good seal, but once done, they have been golden

Kal I don't think you can do it with a maintained switch but.... Using a three position momentary switch, you could add a DPDT relay behind the switch for each position. The control voltage from your key switch then feeds power to the momentary switch and when you toggle in either direction...

Bow and repeat with me: Kal is the electric King, we stand humble before him! Where did you acquire your mad skills? Please don't tell us you taught yourself....

+1 to Gagrew Another alternative is to remove the stock sealing washer, drill an adequate hole into the element mounting ring, and then solder the ground wire there. The added benefit here is no chance of losing ground between the junction box and the element. It is a bit tricky to make a hole...

Consider a hard panel disconnect / contactor as an alternative. See McMaster-Carr part no. 7277K54. You could use it to turn the panel on and off; also, it makes the E-Stop unnecessary because you can use it to hard stop the whole panel. I also find it safer because there is no 120 that jumps...

Kal You are surely first post worthy. I stand among a throng of attempts to match the engineering and "Je Nous Se Qua" you bring to the table. Cheers and many thanks for your efforts. I am about to buy you a beer (or many). MS