Recent content by sa101

I bottled a 23L batch of strawberry/apple cider 3 months ago. OG was 1.054, FG after adding strawberry syrup and before bottling was 1.02. I wasn't looking for anything strong, just something refreshing and sweet for the upcoming summer. Using my trusty 600ml plastic bottle as a carbonation...

looks pretty by the book to me. Did you add the pectic enzyme 12 hours before pitching the yeast?

after pouring in my apple juice and pitching my yeast, I've been waiting for 2 days to see some action in my airlock, but to no avail. After closer inspection, I've realised that my primary bucket has a couple of small holes! When I press on the lid, I can hear the air escaping. I've taped them...

you'll be fine mate, it'll just take a little longer to carb up. Did you put any of that cider into a plastic bottle to check carbonation levels? If not, I'd suggest opening a bottle 4 days after bottling to check the levels

the longer you bottle condition, the clearer it will become. But yes, for best results, enzyme for pitching yeast. All is not lost though, bottle condition in a cool environment for as long as you can hold out for :)

I stop mine around the 1.01 - 1.015 range for a sweet cider. Made some peach cider a while ago for my mum, she likes really sweet stuff. OG for that batch was 1.055 and pasteurised at 1.032. She loved it, but it was way to sweet for my liking. Tasting is the best indication, take a sample, and...

In my opinion, you're better off picking up the essential brewing gear to get an accurate idea of what making cider is all about. You're not going to get a decent drink from what your making in that 1 gallon batch in my eyes. Might as well fork out a little bit of money for the basic gear and...

agreed, no idea what this pressure barrel is (keg?), but if you had a leak, then all the oxygen interacting with your brew definitely wouldn't have done you any favours. Also, after only one week of fermenting, your cider shouldn't taste good, you need to give it time my friend

From what I've read, when guys buy unpasteurised cider, a lot try and kill off the natural yeasts either buy heating up the cider or using campden tablets. Also heard that natural yeast can produce mixed results, and that they're unpredictable, so better off using your own. Like the other...

Ok, did you want to end up with a sweet or dry finished product? This will decide when you should be racking and bottling. Judging by the decreased airlock activity after only 6 days, I'm presuming you didn't add any yeast nutrient? How was the activity during those 6 days, was the airlock...

if you use that combination again, maybe store it in a cooler environement (basement?) and/or install the blow-off tubing instead of the airlock when you pitch the yeast. The more contact your brew has with air, the higher the chance of contamination

Wow! I hate to be a hater, but this is terrible advice!!! Just take a quick search in the recipes section and you'll find a HEAP of sweet cider info, and its not difficult. The basic equation for fermentation is; the longer it ferments, the drier and stronger it's going to be. Buy a...

what sort of end product are you wanting? sweet? dry? strong? weak?

Firstly, what sort of cider are you planning on making? Sweet/Dry/Semi, Carbed/Uncarbed? Is that Redstar a champagne yeast? If yes, then they tend to turn out drier than using an ale yeast, but I've never used it so don't quote me. Is the cider you're buying un-pasteurised? Make sure you...

what was your OG and FG reading? If you didn't ferment out your batch, you shouldn't have any issues with yeast. Eg If FG was around 1.01, then you'll be fine, no extra yeast needed