Recent content by Ryan11

Yeah your fine. It's perfectly normal for some types of yeast to do that. What kind of yeast did you use? I normally use Wyeast or White labs and you can get on their website to look up the yeast that you used. On their websites it will tell you which yeasts are most likely to produce a...

I pitched my yeast last night at 68 degrees. Woke up this morning and found out the temperature of my wort was at 35 degrees. Has this killed my yeast or will it wake back up once the wort warms back up to 65-68 degrees? Do I need to pitch more yeast? Will this change the taste of my beer once...

I pitched my yeast last night at 68 degrees. Woke up this morning and found out the temperature of my wort was at 35 degrees. Has this killed my yeast or will it wake back up once the wort warms back up to 65-68 degrees? Do I need to pitch more yeast? Will this change the taste of my beer once...

Yeah my plan was to cold crash with gelatin for the next 4-5 days and then keg when I get back. I'll take one more reading today and if it hasn't changed I'll go ahead with cold crashing. If anyone else has some advice please let me know.

This was an all grain batch that I mashed at 151 degrees and batch sparged at 168 degrees. My calculated effeciency was about 74%. I used the WLP001 cali yeast and used a good starter. Fermented it at 65 degrees for 10 days. I'm leaving town tomorrow and wanted to cold crash it and put some...

I brewed a blonde ale 10 days ago. The OG was 1.046 and my estimated FG was 1.009. I took a reading today because I wanted to start cold crashing. My reading was 1.008 but there was a little less than a 1/2 inch of krausen still on top. Does this mean I should let it go for a few more days...

I'm not dead set on not doing it I just don't like the carbonic acid taste it can leave.

I usually do the set/forget and let it carb up slowly over 2-3 weeks but I need my beer carbonated in 7-10 days. I don't want to crank it up to 20-30 PSI for a few days. Can I maybe put it at 15 PSI for 7-10 days and have it ready?

Ok, so if I use an oz. of magnum or warrior for bittering should I keep the rest the same or add more Simcoe to the later additions?

I'm not trying to make a double. My grain bill is only going to consist of about 13 lbs. of US 2-row and 1-2 lbs. of C-20. Does anyone have any advise?

1oz Simcoe @ 60min - 37 IBUs 1oz Amarillo @ 20 min - 14.6 IBUs .5oz Simcoe@ 20 min - 11.2 IBUs .5oz Amarillo @ 5 min - 2.4 IBUs .5oz Simcoe Dry Hop .5oz Amarillo Dry Hop Any suggestions? Should I bump up all the .5oz additions to 1oz?

Does anyone have any advice on this?

Does anyone have some advice on this? I was thinking about doing a blonde ale, boiling 10 gallons, and splitting the batches inito different fermenters. Then I'm thinking of fermenting one with Belgian yeast and the other with Cali yeast with some dry hopping. Does anyone have some experience...

I have a recipe that calls for 8 oz. of Crystal 40L and 8 oz. of Crystal 60L. My homebrew store does not have these but they have Crystal 50L. Could I just use 1 lb. of Crystal 50L as a substitute?

I found this thread on here. This is what I ended up doing but went for the larger sized welders magnet and only used 2. It worked awesome. I got them at Harbor Freight Tools. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/how-do-you-attach-drip-tray-keezer-w-out-using-collar-79553/index3.html