Recent content by Presto

I'd like to enter, please!

I don't know if they would work or not, but the warnings in the description would turn me off to using them in something I was going to ingest.

Is there a reason you don't want to mount the secondary regulator inside the keezer? To me, it would seem easier to run a single line to the secondary through the collar.

I've always used wood fired smokers of one kind or another, and have settled on sidebox barrel smokers for now. My dad always switched things around, and tried electric, gas, wood, charcoal. You name it and he's tried it. We both get good results. What I've noticed is that no matter what...

I recently found a local welding supply shop while looking for gas. When I called for prices, the guy asked if I was okay with food grade since that is what he keeps in 5# and 20# tanks for local bars and restaurants :D I guess I can live with that. $5 and $10 respectively is what he charges...

Honestly, the yeast and alcohol should take care of any infectious baddies in the brew. I didn't mean to make light of your predicament. I just couldn't help myself. My sense of humor might be a little warped :fro:

Call it your buggy brew...for more than one reason :)

I forgot to mention that you really want to purge the receiving keg with co2 before the transfer. Leave a little pressure on it, and use just enough pressure on the big keg to move the beer. If the flow stops, don't add pressure to the commercial keg. Just pull the release on the receiving...

If you can also hook up your co2 to the commercial keg, it will work. I run my stouts with a creamer faucet, and really can't tell much of a difference with one dispensed with beer gas.

It works fine, as far as chilling, but the trub hasn't had a chance to settle out yet. You may end up with far more trub in the bottom during fermentation. That may not be a problem, depending on how much wort you have to ferment. If you are pushing the limits of the fermenter with clean...

I keep all of my beers in the fridge to make sure the carbonation is in solution like it should be. For the beers that are supposed to be consumed warmer, I will usually let them set outside the refrigerator for a while (usually 10 or so minutes is plenty) pour them up and hold the glass in my...

I agree. 1.012 is right on par for a dubbel. You are also correct about sugar restarting fermentation. Adding sucrose or dextrose now will only lower FG farther when everything is finished as they are basically completely fermentable, and restarting the yeast will cause them to rework the...

Some time in the bottle will help the desired flavors come through. Age them in a dark place for a couple of months, and give them another taste.

The sugar in a belgian beer is meant to dry it out, lighten the body, and boost alcohol cheaply. The sweetness in most belgians is only perceived. The darker candi sugars add color and a little caramel taste as well. 1.012 FG is not that low for a dubbel. Many belgian beers are into the...

Adding sugar during the boil does nothing to make the finished beer sweeter. It does pretty much the opposite, in fact. If more sugar is added now, the yeast will simply eat that as well, unless it is some sort of unfermentable sugar. Lactose may be your best bet to sweeten after fermentation.