Recent content by Outbred

Don't worry I know better than to go dickering around in the breaker box.

Will check. Hopefully is correct at the panel

Alright, the outlet is 240v as verified by multimeter and has a 5-20r mounted. Clearly not optimal. I'm going to replace it with an L6-30r and make that outlet type the standard throughout the whole build

I traced it back to the panel. It's coming from a double 20a breaker. Going to the depot to get a multimeter tomorrow. On another note, does anyone have any recommended reading material for electrical matters? I want to know more about the topic before I build anything.

Great suggestions, thank you! Suppose that is a 5-20 outlet wired 240v, does it need to be switched to a 6-20 to be up to code? I might as well correct it now if so.

Cool thanks! Will do.

Multimeter is on my list. I've done a lot of work with 120v around the house just trying to get familiar with 240v. I've loved learning about the components of these panels. If I'm uncomfortable at all I fully intend to stop until I've got it figured out. In no rush to get this project done...

Just going on what the outlet face looks like. I'm assuming (maybe erroneously) that the electrician used the correct outlet. Is there anyway to tell whether the guy wired it hhg rather than hhn? Looking to get a gfci like this http://www.gfcistore.com/30-amp-inline-gfcis.html. Thanks for the...

For gfci's what kind of stats am I looking for for devices meant to protect people rather than equipment?

I think you're right. The indicator light would still be in parallel without that wire.

OK I've made a few modifications to the diagram, specifically how the switch was wired and adding a breaker between the PID and the power. Does anyone know if this is the proper way to wire these switches to control the contactor? I've looked at the wiring diagrams for both the contactor and...

That switch was intended to flip the contactor on and off. Without the contactor the second hot line would be connected directly to the outlet and there would always be one live line connected to the outlet when it was plugged in. It's also provides another bit of safety when using the panel in...

Thanks for the reply. Out of curiosity who are the approved controller vendors? Eg are any of the panels I see for sale UL approved? I assume the blichmann one is but 600$ for a PID controller in a fancy case seems exorbitant. Truth be told I was thinking about getting a RIMS rocket from them...

Gotcha. Just read that big garden web post. Near blasphemy to use ground as neutral it seems. As I recall all components are either explicitly 240v or 120/240. Thanks again!