Recent content by leginx

Yeah. Was reading this recently, http://www.birkocorp.com/brewery/white-papers/keg-cleaning/. They recommend a Nitric/phosphoric/detergent rinse which cleans and eliminates beer stone. You'll definitely want the nitric acid for beerstone removal. Not sure if you could use PBW and Acid#5...

Yup. In both. Here's my (Seattle's) water profile which is almost identical to Portland's. Ca 9 Mg 1 HCO3 18 SO4 2 Na 4 Cl 5 Quick question. How are treating your water for chlorine and chloramines, or are you using spring water?

Portland water is very low in minerals. Usually for an IPA you want to spike the sulphates to 50-150 ppm. I'm from Seattle and have a very similar profile. Sulphates at 0-5 ppm. Granted you should still have something coming through when dryhopping. I would check the quality of the hops or...

Portland water is very low in minerals. Usually for an IPA you want to spike the sulphates to 50-150 ppm. I'm from Seattle and have a very similar profile. Sulphates at 0-5 ppm. Granted you should still have something coming through when dryhopping. I would check the quality of the hops or...

Brew 365 has an online mash calculator that is very accurate. Follow that. 1.33 is their default, which is mostly in the middle of the extremes. You can do either with fly sparging, just make sure your runoff doesn't drop below 1.01 sg. I tend to stop at boil volume because the last...

One minute 30 seconds at a slow rate is good. Blasting the o2 only causes the o2 to escape into the headspace (which you could then shake to dissolve into the wort as MTB mentioned). With the slow method I was getting 7 to 9 ppm measurements with my dissolved oxygen meter.

62 is chilly, though if you pitched enough healthy yeast and kept that temp solid then it should be done or on it's way. Gradually raising the temp 4- 6 degrees can only help. You could potentially clean up off-flavors, yet have little to no concern of causing any.

Personally, I would leave it be and hope for the best. Make sure your temp is staying solid in the 68-70 range and that your ambient temp doesn't drop. When it finishes, take a gravity reading and then you can decide whether to add healthy yeast if the fg is too high. Try not to mess with it...

If your attempts at reseating the lid are not working and the leak is always at that point, it could be the metal lip on the inside being malformed, in that rubber ring can't seal because the lip is dented. This has happened to a few of my kegs. Often reseating works, but you can try to reform...

Yeah. Also never heard of this because all the elements I've seen are coated with a black material to begin with. Though not sure why a stainless or copper one would do that.

No issues with high proteins. I've got the electric brewery setup and have done wheat and rye beers at around 50 percent on the grain bill and they have turned up very clean. Just watch out for a black carbon-like buildup on the element.

I have a Blichmann too and that sounds about right. The dome may play a factor. I also use a stout and morebeer conical and the blichmann is the only one that seals properly to show activity in the airlock, so be thankful for the bubbles you do get.

I whirlpool for 2 minutes and let it rest for ten before running it through a CFC. Even with a heating element I still get a decent cone, though stop drawing within a gallon of wort still in the pot because it starts drawing hops and break. (Doing15 gal batches). Beers are crystal clear.