Recent content by laerck

Ok but this last beer fermented in the 60s (and occasionally dipping into the upper 50s) because I had a fermentation chamber, it was only with the first two brews that I fermented in the 70s. Im using a stainless steel pot, and with my first brew (which was the worst) I used all distilled water...

Ive used various water sources, the first time (which was the worst off tasting brew, I used distilled water), and the second and third time I used water from two different cities. I follow the instructions to the T, i.e. steeping the grain for the right amount of time at the right temperature...

Im on my third brew and yet again I am experiencing some odd aftertastes in my brew. My first was a recipe from Midwest, and the second and third were recipes I got from here (which have all been made by many other people who seem to have no problems with their beer), and they are all extract...

My LHBs only has white labs, so what would be your suggestion for a replacement? According to this the best replacement for the Wyeast American Ale II is the WLP California Ale V, however Im wondering if the Irish ale yeast would be better for this brew, although my LHBs has both yeasts.

Thanks, thats everything I needed to know.

It wasnt a 1 minute bump, I edited my first post and no longer needed the second post but I couldnt figure out how to delete it. As I stated above whenever I turn on my tank the dial that registers the pressure in the tank doesnt move up past the red mark that is supposed to indicate the...

I just made the original extract version yesterday and was at first amazed by how crazy my airlock has been. Now almost exactly 24 hours since pitching the yeast I had to install my first blow off tube and see the lid on the plastic bucket bow outwards as the pressure increases. The thing is...

Bump

Im finishing my kegerator by hooking up the Co2 to the regulator and corny keg, however I can not seem to get thing right. I am still trying to fix the leaks in my lines, however for some reason the dial that registers the Co2 in the Co2 tank itself is not registering much pressure.

Its living in an apartment with a tiny kitchen and a electric stove that makes trying to get 4-5gals of wort to boil take forever, cant wait to have a place where I can get a gas stove

Cave Creek Chili Beer, I tried it on a whim since I like beer and spicy things but it was just painful and disgusting...and if you ever try this beer whatever you do dont eat the pepper that comes in the bottle, you will lose tastebuds if you do.

About to start this project today and have a newer model with the plastic molded inner door (instead of the screw in older models), but this thread, describes everything you need to know about doing this project. If anyone has any questions about doing this project feel free to send me a message.

Ive decided to do this as a BIAB now, but have no idea what my strike or mash temp should be and how long the mash-in should be. Anyone with more experience able to point in the right direction for figuring this out, would rather find a good source of info so I can figure this kind of thing for...

Im following a recipe for an American weissbeer that calls for 1 lb. Munich Light Mast, however Im not entirely sure what specific grain they are calling for, since there are a lot of light munich grains out there, and Im still too new to the art of homebrew to want to try and guess. Also...

Thanks for all of this solid advice, right now the price for my a two tap kegerator (minus the secondary corny keg and lines for it) is right at $325. I really wish the price of regulators and the tower was cheaper, but all my searches have brought up nothing.