Recent content by etoews

thanks for the advice guys. for what it's worth, i also use a hop spider for my boils and believe it or not quite a bit of material gets out of the 5 gallon paint strainer bag. and wolfman i noticed that you are pretty disciplined about cleaning right away. i too am also a cleaning...

so i've been brewing biab for quite a few batches now with the mash/boil being done in my converted keg and plate chiller. great brews so far, but have an engineering issue i'm trying to work around. i have been using a bazooka filter in the bottom of the keg screwed into my 1/2" ball...

thanks. not into the hop sack method so i made my own, very cool 'hop retention' device :) (it's basically a really big hop sack that lets the hops float around the entire keg and yet i can still remove it. had to do this as i use a plate chiller and can't be having that stuff flow through...

thanks, that's what i've been doing. my issue is consistency; my big ipa's that need 7oz of hops or so are going to be very different than the lighter ones that need just 2. and again, as of yet i've just been winging it through experience but would like a more concrete method of figuring this...

so i've been brewing biab for some time now and have pretty much figured out how to nail my mash temps and volume (boil volume too) while doing full volume boils in my converted keg (on a killer bayou burner). so my quandry lies in trying to figure out how much i might expect to lose to trub...

cool

thanks. as per my previous comment: this is a last ditch effort. so am i aerating the worst in direct violation of brewing 101? damn straight if it'll get the process going again. maybe i did not include enough info on the first message: my pitching/fermenting temps are a rock solid 73F...

hey all: got a stuck fermentation and YES i HAVE read all of the awesome input that has been posted here prior to posting this. just a last ditch attempt and would appreciate any help. anyhow, it was a a light belgian apricot wheat that was intended for friends and family so as not to...

think i've got to be with juanmoore on this one. the water should be heated first then grains added. reason it's called a 'strike temp' is because it's not your mash temp; it should be a bit higher (maybe 5-10 degrees or so depending on your mash vessel) then grains added. your temp will...

thanks for the reply. and, as a matter of fact, i have had carbonation issues. strange, but quite a few batches under my belt and have never had a problem with carbonation but now... i'm getting some bottles that are just perfect, a few that are dead flat, and a couple of volcanoes. and...

hey all: recently brewed a belgian strong and everything pretty much went as planned. however, after three weeks in the bottle the beer is crystal clear and yet pours very cloudy. so any inisght on this? when i say 'cloudy' i'm not talking about a little bit of crap floating around in...

indeed. basically i've found that using this formula in the past has given me dead on results in terms of water for mash volume and then the following boil: end volume+1.5 gal/hr. boiloff+(grain weight*.05) so i've got to wonder if it could possibly be the grains at this store. i guess...

this is no sparge biab. samples are all around 65 F or so measured with a hydrometer.

thanks for the advice guys. FWIW, i always hit my temps within a couple of degrees and the grinding was always done at the lhbs (including the last set of grains that i mail ordered. only order whole grains; like to do the grinding myself. and they are fine i will tell you; almost like...

hey all: got a question about an amber i brewed about a week ago and hope somebody here can help. i do biab brewing and over my last few batches have been getting lousy efficiency. tried a number of things to correct the situation but still no dice. and yes, my grain is EXTREMELLY fine...