Recent content by DNelson

Ha! Sorry. No signatures on the mobile version. I see it now. Thanks

Hi augiedoggy, do you have a build thread here or elsewhere for this setup? I recently saw a picture of the RIMS setup in another thread, and it looked great. What element did you use?

and as for your question, for my last IPA I used a mesh filter on my diptube, threw in a weighted hop sack, then racked it to another keg after about a week on the hops. I've clogged poppets before... not fun. So I've been extra careful lately.

Another thing to consider is the difference in flavor contribution. Lots of pro brewers (example: Julian Shrago) insist that removing the yeast prior to dry hopping is critical, as the yeast can scrub out flavor/aroma compounds. So dry hopping in the keg takes care of that. Yet there's also pro...

Bobby got back to me. He hasn't personally taken the tri clamp kit above 10psi. I'll have to pick one up and see. I'm hoping it will hold at 30psi at least. I'll message the NorCal guys as well and see if they've done any further testing on theirs.

None of the pics work in this thread from last year, but I'm super curious to see what he built...

I just came across a post that stated: "There are also tri-clover kits available to use these as fermenters, but the gasket will not hold much pressure." Looking to use one as a brett solera for finished beer, under pressure, with a ball valve on the bottom and a co2 hookup on top. A spunding...

Going to reach out to Bobby, but anyone know off the top of their head what kind of pressure the modified gaskets can handle?

Really?! That would be great. I had assumed that people were having to weld tri clamp fittings on for those setups. I'll have a look, thanks.

On sankey kegs, would there be a way to remove the spear, and cap off the top port? I've never taken one apart, so I'm not familiar with the workings of the spear assembly. If the spear is removed will a coupler still seal? Or, preferably, with the spear removed is there a way to thread in a...

I had this same idea and a search led me here. It would be the homebrew version of Sierra Nevada's torpedo system. If anyone gives this a shot please post your results. I plan on getting a Quickcarb to experiment with in the near future.

Oops, I misremembered. Thanks for the correction.

Running the 240v water heater elements at 120v works but at half the wattage. Maybe try switching the plug and seeing if 2750W (if it's a 5500W @ 240v element) is enough for the HLT.

The coil is stainless and the element is nickel-chromium stainless with a stainless steel base.

Would that explain the heat tint as well?