Recent content by ddahl84

That's great! I would like to see pics when your finished. The heating element is from usatankless.com/3000w-120v.html I don't know if is high or low density but I have had no problems with scorching. Most of the beers that I have received medals for have been light german lagers"Helles" and...

58 inches to the top of the mash tun. I don't stir during the mash. To me that sounds like stuck mash problems waiting to happen. There's two things I've done. Used a step stool to pour the grain in or just taken the mash tun down filled it up then lifted it back up. Sent from my iPhone...

Thanks for the nice complements. Sorry it's taken so long to reply. The couple of things I have changed is the float switch in the mash tun, because the cheep plastic ones where not reliable and stuck under mash temps, and made a nicer switch with alarm for the solenoid water filler. The pump...

I would love to see a pic of the whole system up and running. Are you going to mount the control panel to the stand?

Here's where I got mine. Greatbreweh.com

I have that exact same pump and when I received it, I had the same question. I wanted to mount it to my brew stand. Here's what I came up with. I bought a Blichmann ball valve, attached a L shaped piece of metal to two of the screws then mounted the ball valve to the stand. It's been working great.

I do let the mash sit for 45-60min then recirc/vorlauf so when I start draining it into the boil kettle it's clear wort.

Instead of taking over this thread here's a link to my setup. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/different-e-brewery-380514/ I'll be happy to answer any questions about it there.

Ill have to get back to you on that one. I have taken several readings at the end of the 60min mash and lose 1-2 degrees, then I start a mash recirc for around 15min and don't really care about the temp since the mash is done at that point. But next brew day ill try to remember to check it out...

Wire size depends on the amps that will be flowing through it. If your setup is being powered buy a 20a circuit then all wires that will be drawing that(contactor, element, ssr) should be 12g wire. The wires going to the pid and pump can be smaller 14g. For example my setup uses 30a so the ssr...

Kevin- The diagram would work the same as well just remember everything running 30a needs 10g wiring(contactor, element). And also the plugs and outlets used need to be 30a rated.

I think it draws around 25amps. So not going to work. Everything in my build is 10g wire, all 30a plugs and outlets on a 30a breaker.

It's on a 30a 125v breaker. Here's my thread for it if you have anymore questions. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/different-e-brewery-380514/

Yeah and I could probably do a step mash but haven't yet. For mash out all I do is set the PID to mash out temp while recirc and let it be.

I actually changed the whole thing out with a stainless range hood for more power. From mash temps to boil I believe its around 20*30mins. Seems about the same as my old turkey fryer. In a way yes and no. I dont drain then add a 2nd volume, I just start a pump and recirculate all of it...