Recent content by Byrd

Yep, sort of annoying but not bad all things considered. The usual response is 'I could build something myself like that' but the reality is everyone's time has value, I just don't want to fiddle around with options where the end result doesn't look as good. Think of how expensive the...

Another option I've found recently is www.bevboard.com The UI is a little more appealing and there's zero coding or need for a raspberry pi. It's subscription based but can be cancelled at any time. Basically just set and forget, works for my needs.

@okiedog take a look at www.bevboard.com No coding required, up and running in minutes - sometimes it's not worth fiddling with the tech. side of it.

Wanted to finish this thread with the completed working wiring diagram for those who are searching. Thanks all for your help! :rockin:

You know, i think it's the multimeter drawing power from the driver for it's readings which makes the fan go? Outside of that.... aliens. Thanks ClaudiusB, I learned something new today and paid $7 in tuition for it. I purchased a fixed voltage 12V DC inverter. Thanks again! :mug:

This fan doesn't have a thermistor :( The red and black wires from the fan are soldered to the LED driver. I just touched the black multi-meter probe to the black wire and the red multi-meter probe to the red wire. When it's on 12v battery test it makes the fan run perfectly. In the video, the...

Hi all, I'm at the end of my brew controller build and looking to include a fan. I'm having issues actually driving the fan, and I think it's due to a lack of watts. The 80mm 120v AC fans are just far too big for my box so I went with a 50mm 12v DC fan but it's causing issues. Here is my...

The black jumper provides power to the bottom switch when the top switch is turned on. To turn the cooling on, the PID would have to be Powered on. I'm sort of guessing this is how it works :confused: The difference between the 3 switch and the diagram above appears to be the contactor which...

You just had to go and ruin all the fun with your logic didn't you?! :p I appreciate you looking at this in detail. All of the wiring diagrams I've seen for 120v are wired similar to this, they just include an 'E-Stop'. This 'E-Stop' is effectively the 'Heat' switch in my setup. I haven't...

Thanks for the quick reply Doug. Power - The power switch just turns on the PID which is effectively the master power switch as the user can't use anything else without the PID being on. Heat & Cooling - This acts as a master switch for the heating and cooling functions. If there is a...

Before I set my house on fire, I wanted to verify things look good to accomplish the following: 1. The single pole three switch receptacle is the master turn on/off of the PID, Heat, and Cooling. 2. To boil, I would set the TD4 into manual mode, and set my temperature for boiling which...

Thank you! :tank: I'm looking at simplifying my box and I was hoping to use something like a switched plug that's all in one nice package to power each heating element and to power the PID. (like so...

Thanks for the reply! It does appear it's heat only. I'm looking into the MyPin TD4 to handle both heating and cooling as it will take the RTD sensor which is a lot more accurate. Options like the InkBird C206T (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N464JQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) or the baylite...

Guys my head about to explode with all the options here. I'm trying to accomplish a Brewery in a Conical (BIAC) using electric. I'm looking for the most cost efficient and cleanest implementation to achieve this. Here's what I'm wanting from my 5 gallon setup: Heating - 2x 1500 watt hotrod...

All of these look fantastic! You guys mind sharing your source for the pipes / fittings? Is there a place online I can go or search terms? I'm also looking to tie in a light (like this https://img0.etsystatic.com/106/0/6191915/il_570xN.1029466490_ii96.jpg) - any thoughts on a solution? I...