Keezer Gas Bulkhead solution

[Bukit]

I was looking for a clean way to feed CO2 into my keezer with a ball lock quick disconnect on the outside and hose barb on the inside. I found a MFL Bulkhead Adapter Shank (2-7/8" long) on The CHI Company Website.

www.chicompany.net 530-622-8265

I gave CHI a call and talked to Matthew. He was very helpful in navigating me to the right parts on the site and made some great suggestions. He was very knowledgeable and had a great attitude. I will definitely try to support his business again.

Here's the parts list:

1) 1 x MFL Bulkhead Adapter / Shank - 2-7/8" long
2) 1 x Swivel Nut Set - 1/4" x 1/4"
3) 2 x Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (04E04291IH)
4) 1 x Adapter - Cornelius Keg Post 1/4" FFL x 19/32" - 18
5) 1 x Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Post

 

[prandlesc]

I love the products and service of CHI. They have helped me several times.

 

[eulipion2]

I know the keg post adapter has an o-ring on it, but should I use thread tape on it? Is keg lube on the o-ring enough? I know the flare ends don't need tape.

 

[day_trippr]

Thread tape will do nothing to help seal the post or the adapter or the bulkhead section - that's the job of the o-rings and the plastic gasket. Save the tape for pipe threads...

Cheers!

 

[eulipion2]

Thread tape will do nothing to help seal the post or the adapter or the bulkhead section - that's the job of the o-rings and the plastic gasket. Save the tape for pipe threads...

Cheers!

Perfect. That's what I thought. Thanks!

 

[baron]

Thanks for the parts list -- exactly what I needed to locate my CO2 tank outside of my kegerator.

Cheers,
Rick

I was looking for a clean way to feed CO2 into my keezer with a ball lock quick disconnect on the outside and hose barb on the inside. I found a MFL Bulkhead Adapter Shank (2-7/8" long) on The CHI Company Website.

www.chicompany.net 530-622-8265

I gave CHI a call and talked to Matthew. He was very helpful in navigating me to the right parts on the site and made some great suggestions. He was very knowledgeable and had a great attitude. I will definitely try to support his business again.

Here's the parts list:

1) 1 x MFL Bulkhead Adapter / Shank - 2-7/8" long
2) 1 x Swivel Nut Set - 1/4" x 1/4"
3) 2 x Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (04E04291IH)
4) 1 x Adapter - Cornelius Keg Post 1/4" FFL x 19/32" - 18
5) 1 x Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Post

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Thanks for sharing. That is going on the purchase list.

 

[Renoun]

The bulkhead solution from CHI looks pretty nifty.

If you just want a tidy solution for passing a hose (either high or low pressure) through Blue Sea Systems make Cable Clam which would work well for around $20. It's designed for sealing through deck antenna cables on boats and is easy to find at better marine supply stores if you are on a coast.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Sub'd.

 

[brewcat]

Cool. This is exactly what I've been trying to figure out. Just need to get a couple setup. Do you then use a quick disconnect here and inside on the keg in?

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Cool. This is exactly what I've been trying to figure out. Just need to get a couple setup. Do you then use a quick disconnect here and inside on the keg in?

Personally, I would recommend you don't use a "Q D" on your gas line, which I'm guessin' is the high side as well, then definitely not!

A Q D is just another spot for a leak on the gas side............Flare fittings all the way, if you are going to use a bulkhead fitting.

A Q D AFTER your secondary regulator is the norm, from secondary reg, to keg.

 

[brewcat]

Hmm... Maybe I should just run my hoses directly through the fridge. Would be cheaper, but not necessarily look as clean. I have a taprite dual body and trying to figure out the best option.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I'll try to remember to snap some pics of my keezer, on which I used a high pressure hose from my external tank, to an internal dual body regulator.

No collar.....The freezer had a drain plug on the lower front corner.
I snatched the guts out of it, removed the foam below it, checked for obstructions, then drilled a hole out the end of the freezer body, (where my tank lives), and routed the hose through there.

 

[eulipion2]

My gas runs through one of these with the disconnect on the outside and flare inside. I've had it for about a year without any leaks from the QD. Being able to pop the gas from place to place is pretty awesome!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

FLARE FITTINGS:
REMEMBER......... flare fittings DO NOT SEAL without FLARE FITTING WASHERS.
Without them, you have to torque the fittings so tight, you score/warp the metal. Metal on Metal does not seal.
The -one- exception is with SOFT metals, such as brass. But STILL you should use flare washers to be save and Mandatory for SS on SS connections.

Correction:
Metal on metal does seal, everyday, on 37 and 45 degree flares everywhere, specifically on Stainless to Stainless.

On your car, on airplanes, hydraulic equipment, etc.....

Said fittings should always be torqued with 2 wrenches, one to hold, and one to "snug".

Granted, for the Home Brewer, the washers are the best idea!

Not giving you hell, just putting it out there!........

 

[Big10]

Thanks for the parts list!! I've purchased this same setup for my keezer build. More details to come on my blog at MIBrewer dot com

 

[bcrawfo2]

See any reason i couldn't use this for liquid? I make seltzer in a keg outside my keezer and then push it into a keg inside the keezer (to cool it). This lets me refill seltzer without lifting a keg every few days. I currently run a beer (seltzer) line thru the wall of my keezer

 

[eulipion2]

See any reason i couldn't use this for liquid? I make seltzer in a keg outside my keezer and then push it into a keg inside the keezer (to cool it). This lets me refill seltzer without lifting a keg every few days. I currently run a beer (seltzer) line thru the wall of my keezer

My guess is that you could do it, but you'd still need to clean it from time to time to make sure no mold/mildew starts growing in the line, and/or maybe blow air or CO2 through it to blow out any remaining liquid to keep it dry.

 

[mux11]

Thanks for the info! Now added to the list.

 

[Positronic_Matrix]

Thank you for taking the time to write this up. This saved me a lot of work and helped me discover a new, local company to boot! I can confirm, that nine years after this post was made, the company is still in business and the parts list is still valid. In 2013 the set above goes for about $20 excluding shipping with half the cost coming from the Cornelius ball lock post.

 

[Positronic_Matrix]

Thank you for taking the time to write this up. This saved me a lot of work and helped me discover a new, local company to boot! I can confirm, that nine years after this post was made, the company is still in business and the parts list is still valid. In 2013 the set above goes for about $20 excluding shipping with half the cost coming from the Cornelius ball lock post.

I wanted to follow up on my comment to let folks know that the company referenced above included political propaganda in their shipment to me. It was a great disappointment to have this unwanted politicking foisted upon me in my own home. It was like getting a Chick Tract instead of candy when I went trick-or-treating as a kid.

I sent feedback stating that the inclusion was unprofessional, however the company failed to respond to my input.

 

[day_trippr]

No idea what a "Chick Tract" might be but it can't be good if it causes panties to get bunched

 

[Positronic_Matrix]

No idea what a "Chick Tract" might be but it can't be good if it causes panties to get bunched

I’ve never met someone who hadn’t heard about a Chick tract before! The official “crazy lady” (per my children) in my California neighborhood hands them out to kids year round. I received them growing up in suburban Colorado at Halloween. It’s religious propaganda with antisemitic and anticatholic undertones — dark **** to hand out to kids.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chick_tract

Although many of Chick's tracts express views that are generally accepted within mainstream Christian theology, several tracts have expressed controversial viewpoints. Most notably, Chick tracts express strong anti-Catholic views, as well as criticisms of other faiths, including Judaism, Islam, and Mormonism.

Needless to say, that when folks are rebuilding a keezer, I don’t think there’s anyone on this forum who wants propaganda, either political or religious, slipped into their orders.

 

[Yesfan]

.........Needless to say, that when folks are rebuilding a keezer, I don’t think there’s anyone on this forum who wants propaganda, either political or religious, slipped into their orders.

I don't want religious/political propaganda in my orders either (mainly, because it's more clutter to throw away like junk mail), but those companies can feel free to add them to my orders. That way I'll know who I want to support/not support in the future.

You gotta think positive friend.

 

[mac_1103]

You talking about CHI Company? Those little "I did that" stickers? You think that's political propaganda? You need to chill dude.

 

[cfrazier77]

Not everyone here is on the same side religiously or politically. What offends you does not others, what offends others you agree with. Get thicker skin

 

[day_trippr]

I’ve never met someone who hadn’t heard about a Chick tract before!

Given the author is associated with hate groups I'm happy to be that naive...

Cheers!

 

[Positronic_Matrix]

Here’s a solution from Wholesale Beer Parts with 1/4” swivel nuts (barbs):

• 1 × Bulkhead Adapter with Fittings ($19.95)

If you want to substitute one barb with a ball lock post, order these too:

• 1 × Adapter - Cornelius Keg Post 1/4" FFL x 19/32" ($3.89)
• 1 × Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Post ($7.25)

When in stock, the whole ball-lock-post-to-barb shank can be purchased here:

• 1 × MFL Bulkhead with Ball Lock Gas Post ($21.99)