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Chest Freezer Specs and Layouts

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I'm hoping someone can help me here. The mfg is being completely useless. My company is moving to a new building and my manager offered me a 21 cuft Kenmore chest freezer or a 5 cuft chest freezer. I can fit 3 kegs in the small one, and a crazy amount in the big one. My real problem comes in the temp control. The small one is easy since I can just use a temp controller. However, for the big one there is a digital control on the lid. Does anyone know if the digital control will maintain the set temp if unplugged and plugged back in? Will repeated power cycles from a temp controller damage the digital controls? Or did I get lucky and I can set the digital control to refrigerator temps?
Any help you guys might be able to provide would be appreciated.
 
I would start a new thread for that. The only problem I see is that the digital thermostat might have a built in compressor delay already, so you'll need to plan accordingly. But otherwise it shouldn't be any different from an analog thermostat.
 
That was something I hadn't considered. I think this is getting too complicated :) I think I'll just stick with the also free smaller one. I figured I can get 3 kegs in there with a collar (which I wanted to do anyway). I'm not planning on owning more than 4 or 5 kegs anyway. 3 in the keezer and 1 or 2 aging.
 
Calman, I wouldn't worry about any built in delay. Any delay it has won't be that long. Even it resets the temp every on/off cycle, as long as it's reset to "cold enough" it won't matter (and it should be calling for at least 32 degrees - it's a freezer). The only concern that I'd have would be that you could burn out the controls. Depending on how it's set up, that could mean "always on" or "always off". If it defaults to on, you're good. The secondary controller you install will take care of it. If it's off, you have a really big doorstop full of beer.
 
Calman, I wouldn't worry about any built in delay. Any delay it has won't be that long. Even it resets the temp every on/off cycle, as long as it's reset to "cold enough" it won't matter (and it should be calling for at least 32 degrees - it's a freezer). The only concern that I'd have would be that you could burn out the controls. Depending on how it's set up, that could mean "always on" or "always off". If it defaults to on, you're good. The secondary controller you install will take care of it. If it's off, you have a really big doorstop full of beer.

Freezers are typically built to fail into the "on" position.

It's much more beneficial for the motor to run for a day or two before somebody notices, rather than to turn off and let hundreds or thousands of dollars of food thaw/melt.

Either way, why not just use an external controller? No wiring necessary.
 
Hey Thadius there should be some kind of prize for all the fantastic work you did here. Any one building a keezer should have to see this thread before they start.
 
Erik, it sounds like you have pin lock kegs that have been converted to ball lock. Pin locks are 4 inches shorter but 1/2 inch bigger around. That 1/2 inch makes all the difference in the world. Based on thads drawings, you could probably squeeze 1 more in there if the basket guides aren't getting in the way.
 
So if I am reading this right a 7 3/4 collar is minimum collar height to put a ball lock on the hump of the GE 7cuft. Does that leave enough room for the connections and lines?
 
Nope--all of my kegs are original ball locks. I removed the basket edging as well, but still no dice. I even tried using different kegs, thinking maybe one of my kegs was deformed in some way. Do you have the same freezer, hbrookie? Are you able to fit 9?
 
image-1797242748.jpg

Not gonna fit.
 
Does anyone know of a 7 CuFt freezer that can still fit a 1/2bbl? Looks like you can no longer find the FF07C3AW1 for sale. I wouldn't mind being able to throw a 1/2bbl in every once in a while. Thank you.
 
So if I am reading this right a 7 3/4 collar is minimum collar height to put a ball lock on the hump of the GE 7cuft. Does that leave enough room for the connections and lines?

It includes 1" for disconnects and hoses.

Both of my GE 7.0's have 1x10 collars (9.25") and fit just fine with kegs on the hump.
 
Does anyone know of a 7 CuFt freezer that can still fit a 1/2bbl? Looks like you can no longer find the FF07C3AW1 for sale. I wouldn't mind being able to throw a 1/2bbl in every once in a while. Thank you.

Sorry, don't think this exists.

Many great brews come in 1/4 slim bbl and 1/6 bbl.

BevMo.com and Totalwine.com can give you a rough idea of which ones do.
 

Looks tight. There's a good chance that you can get 9 in there still.

I find that my cornys aren't actually round, but slightly oval. The short way across the lid seems to be smaller than the other way. That is, if you have the lid facing you with the bail at the bottom and you're above it, they're skinnier from left-to-right than top-to-bottom.

Have you checked for bulge at the foot/heel of the keg? Most kegs bulge here slightly from the rubber vulcanizing mold, and you can get a surprising amount of space back my shaving 1/16" off with a rasp.
 
Sorry, don't think this exists.

Many great brews come in 1/4 slim bbl and 1/6 bbl.

BevMo.com and Totalwine.com can give you a rough idea of which ones do.

Yeah, I was looking more for a BMC beer for parties and what not.

OOOOOOHHHH well.
 
Hi All,

I'm prepping to use just a small 5cuft freezer for 3 kegs. Wifey wont let me have any more kegs, I suppose I don't NEED to have that much beet on tap. But who actually NEEDS beer at all :) But I digress. I actually measured the freezer and modeled it in solidworks. I then modeled a pin lock keg with a ball lock height, then added a bit for connectors. I was able to easily see that with a 10" collar (2x10's) I can fit 3 kegs of any style plus my gas line. Since the 2x10's are actually 1.5" thick, it will be set back from the inside wall of the freezer to have clearance for a manifold. If you want to put a keg on the hump, I highly suggest a 10" collar.
 
I got an analogue controller for my new keezer. Does anyone know if its ok to put the controller in the keezer or do I need to have the controller outside with a hole in the collar for the temp probe?
 
I'd have to imagine that lifting a full 1/2 bbl keg into a keezer, especially if there's a collar, would be highly unpleasant.

That's the beauty of a party. Always, have plenty of help to load it up. :)

I'm not planning to put a collar on my keezer. I'm planning to build a whole bar around it as others have done on this board. But, oh well. It was worth asking.
 
Yeah, I was looking more for a BMC beer for parties and what not.

OOOOOOHHHH well.

This method is a lot easier and cheaper for party kegs:

http://www.wikihow.com/Chill-a-Keg-of-Beer

I'd have to imagine that lifting a full 1/2 bbl keg into a keezer, especially if there's a collar, would be highly unpleasant.

With a 1x12 collar, even 5 gallon kegs require a bit of back strain to get into my 15 cf Maytag. It's much easier in my 7 cf GE's with 1x10 collars, but I still think I'd hurt myself wrestling a full 1/2 bbl into either of them (even with the collars lifted out of the way).
 
But is it possible to go smaller?

Very possible to go shorter on the 7 cu ft.

But even sitting on 3" casters and doubled 2x4 frame, it's barely at the right height to be ergonomically comfortable to serve from as an almost 6'0" tall man. Without the casters or frame, I'd have to bend at the knee to hold the glass low enough.
 
thadius856 said:
Very possible to go shorter on the 7 cu ft.

But even sitting on 3" casters and doubled 2x4 frame, it's barely at the right height to be ergonomically comfortable to serve from as an almost 6'0" tall man. Without the casters or frame, I'd have to bend at the knee to hold the glass low enough.

Yeah, I gotcha. I am just concentrating on fitting the kegs in. I would rather build a taller platform than to have wasted space in the cooling compartment. So what would the minimum collar height be?
 
Yeah, I gotcha. I am just concentrating on fitting the kegs in. I would rather build a taller platform than to have wasted space in the cooling compartment. So what would the minimum collar height be?

This information is on each the drawings and explained in detail in the second post in this thread.

I've already included minimum 1" of clearance for connections and hoses in the figures. This is explained in the second post. So, you can probably shave off 1" from that figure. Understand that you're taking a slightly risk doing this since I don't have a garage full of different freezers, so I'm relying on community measurements for many of these models. YMMV. If you buy a freezer and waste $15 in wood trying to cut it too close, it's not my fault.

Now, back to the specifics of the model you asked out.

In the GE 7.0 cf S-model post, it says minimum collar height is 9". That means that with one ball lock on the hump and a 9" collar, you have at least 1" of clearance between the hose/disconnect and the underside of the lid. Sure enough, I had about 1-1/4" or so with the gas hose connected. A little more with only the liquid hose connected.





So... the final answer is 1x8 minimum, if your cable management is impeccable.
 
Anyone have any experience with the Franklin Chef Chest Freezers? They have dual temperature settings for refrigerating and freezing. I was thinking I might be able to by-pass a temp controller by going with one of these. They come in 3.5 cu ft, 5.3 cu ft, 7.0 cu ft, and 10.6 cu ft and in white or black. Prices seem reasonable.
 
alright... so i have been tossing this back and forth in my head... i have a 14.8 fridgedaire freezer im making into a keezer..... Im trying to figure out how many taps i want before i start drilling the holes... i also only have 6 pin lock kegs at my disposal right now... im thinking about keeping the taps at a minimum of 3-4 so that i can keep total costs down... sounds good?
 
Start with however many you can afford. It's not like you can't add more later.
 
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