I used a 1500w heat stick (Utilitec 1500w/120V universal element) 18 times doing partial boil recipes before “popping” on the 19th use. It was used for heat-up and also during the 60-minute boil when my former stove-top electric element was maybe 1800w to 2000w, which is barely enough wattage for stove-top partial volume brewing. To make it easy to control the heat input, I used a dial router speed control (Harbor Freight - Model 43060) that allowed me to dial-in the desired heat input. I built this one from information I read here on one of the forum DIY discussions a few years ago. Not sure why it “popped” as it was completely submerged at the time. I suspect it might have been from build-up of brewing extracts on the heating element interfering with the heat transfer. Since it took a bit of effort to make one like this using plumbing parts and J-B weld, I decided to scrap it and do without. I finally decided to make a replacement using tri-clamp parts as this method would allow for easy change-out of a “failed” element in a matter of minutes, even during brewing time! I classified this build as one of those “something to do just because and who cares what it costs” moments even though I surely could do without. My new brew kitchen is equipped with two high-wattage elements (3000w and a 3200w), so for partial boils, a heat stick is not something really necessary for me. Well, after spending about $100 for parts and $30 for custom drilling, I now have the perfect build. Parts list includes:
1 - 2” tri-clamp pipe (20” length)
1 – 2” clamps
2 – 2” silicon gaskets
1 – 2” tri-clamp x 1” element adapter
1 – 2” end cap (customized after purchase)
1 – 6’ cable, 14 AWG. 3-conductor, with 3-pringed electrical plug
1 – 1/2" Low-Profile Strain Relief Non-Metallic Cord Connector (Model Number: LPCG50-1M, Menards® SKU: 3654107)
1 - #8 x 1” bolt, with 2 nuts, and 1 lock-washer for the ground connection
1 – Utilitech 1500w/120V universal element (high density)
The old one.
The new and improved one.
The final build is kind of heavy and bulky. I decided on a 20” pipe (in lieu of a 12”) just in case I want to use it on a full-volume boil with my 8-gallon brew kettle if I decide to go back outside using propane. I took the end-cap to a local machine shop to drill 2 holes in the end cap for the cable gland and ground connection bolt. It was worth it, since the guy said the 304-stainless steel end cap was very hard to drill through. Hole sizes for the parts were “close-fit” drilled – just enough to insert the cable gland and grounding bolts. I should really use an ultra-low density (wattage per square inch of surface area) element, but when the “cheapo” element burns out, I can swap it out in no time with whatever I want. For now, I’m using the heat stick to heat up water to steeping temperature. Note the dial speed controller is plugged into a GFCI outlet during use. Warning - the router speed control gets smoking hot so use caution!! If I had an ultra-low-density heating element, I might consider using it during the heat-up from steeping temperature to full boil. My heat-up rate (for 2.5 gallons water) using the tri-clamp model is now about double at 7.2 F/minute. I figure it saves me maybe 15 minutes to heat water to steeping temperatures, so after 1,344 brew sessions, I have enough time in the bank for a 2-week vacation!
