Project Monsterator

Joe C · May 19, 2009

Joe C said:
Well, quick update.
I've been insanely busy working 12+ days in a row, so I really haven't made any progress.

Because of the humidity in my house, we are having a hard time with surface rust actually coming through the paint. It is making visible dark spots in the paint. While it's clearly not spreading, it's visible in the paint and I don't want that to happen.

I'm picking up what is called "Rust Doctor" to re-prime the fridge. Here's some information on it here...
Rust Removal Products Rust Repair Rust Converter Rust Stain Removal Stop Rust

In the meantime, I will be starting to get the inside portions of the freezer situated.

Here's the pictures... I'm pretty damn pissed.

I will be stripping down all the paint and re-priming once the priming doctor shows up.

JesseRC · May 19, 2009

what kind of primer did you use before?

Joe C · May 19, 2009

Glidden Interior/exterior primer.

taylornate · May 19, 2009

Looking awesome!

Why put the collar on the lid and not the chest?

Joe C · May 19, 2009

So when I open it up all of the taps and lines go with it. Once I run all of the lines inside it will make perfect sense

JPicasso · May 20, 2009

Well, it looks like the rust Dr. did what it said.... it reacts with the rust spots and turns them black. I suppose you could just paint over it now, yes?

If you're going to bother with stripping all the paint off again, I would use an oil-based primer that is made specifically for metal. Glidden latex primer is probably not going to cut it.

Awesome project.

Hang Glider · May 20, 2009

Suggestion - if you haven't already, try a 'real' paint store - there are metal conditioners and other products to use on the rust before the primer...

purechaos · May 20, 2009

you might want to look into treating it with naval jelly

IrregularPulse · May 20, 2009

purechaos said:
you might want to look into treating it with naval jelly

Eww I wouldn't recommend that at all. I got Jelly in my naval once during a...um...well it just happened once. It feels gross! Sure you're not necessarily thinking of that at the time it happens, but waking up the next day in the middle of a park half naked with sun baked jelly in your naval is no fun! Not even going to get in to the mess with getting jelly out of a Donkey's Mane! Good thing bachelor parties only happen once right! :drunk:

I say just concentrate on the build for now.

purechaos · May 20, 2009

for serious

Duro Naval Jelly, 16 OZ, Rust Dissolver, Brush On Then Rinse Off Years

bendavanza · May 20, 2009

I had rust peek through stuff before. A coat of Red Oxide Primer is the way to go.

DrMaddVibe · May 20, 2009

I just have to say, what an AWESOME project!
:rockin:

Joe C · May 20, 2009

DrMaddVibe said:
I just have to say, what an AWESOME project!
:rockin:

Thanks!

JPicasso said:
Well, it looks like the rust Dr. did what it said.... it reacts with the rust spots and turns them black. I suppose you could just paint over it now, yes?

If you're going to bother with stripping all the paint off again, I would use an oil-based primer that is made specifically for metal. Glidden latex primer is probably not going to cut it.

Awesome project.

Actually, the rust doctor hasn't come in yet. I attempted to use vinal caulking in the corners, it didn't work (clearly... YUCK!)

The Rust doctor primer will be here soon. As soon as it's here, I will start the painting process again. It's pretty discouraging, but I'm still going to make sure that I keep pushing forward on it.

Side note, I don't know who updates the HBT twitter page, but I made it!!!

homebrewtalk (HomeBrewTalk) on Twitter

I just want to say THANKS!!!!!!! I really appreciate the recognition, and it's cool to have my work/effort promoted. To have it called the "MOAK" is humbling and makes me proud.

taylornate · May 20, 2009

Would it be beneficial to insulate the collar?

Moose777 · May 21, 2009

Amazing project...what amazes me most is that you posted "I don't drink much beer" yet you'll have 12 kegs on tap???
Wow, that's a lot of beer to have on hand..

Okay I'm a little jealous but seriously ...12?

Joe C · May 21, 2009

I would like to also have 1-2 as soda taps.

Taylornate; from what I've read there probably are benefits to insulating the collar, but I am going to see how it works out without insulating it first. If I notice that there is a significant problem with foaming then I will insulate it.

travestyofnature · May 24, 2009

Awesome Project - Prosted! Can't wait to see how the painting comes out.

bendavanza · May 24, 2009

Joe
I don't think insulation on a collar would help with foaming. With your faucets in the cold area, insulation would just help the freezer to run more efficiently. A fan would help with stratification, moving the coldest air from the bottom and keeping your taps colder.
-Ben

taylornate · May 24, 2009

Joe C said:
I would like to also have 1-2 as soda taps.

Taylornate; from what I've read there probably are benefits to insulating the collar, but I am going to see how it works out without insulating it first. If I notice that there is a significant problem with foaming then I will insulate it.

I was thinking more about the electric bill than I was about foaming.

justbrewit · May 25, 2009

This is looking bitchin man, I'm not going collar when I do mine but yours looks killer.

Joe C · May 26, 2009

bdavanza said:
Joe
I don't think insulation on a collar would help with foaming. With your faucets in the cold area, insulation would just help the freezer to run more efficiently. A fan would help with stratification, moving the coldest air from the bottom and keeping your taps colder.
-Ben

That would definitely make sense :mug:

I will look into it.

taylornate said:
I was thinking more about the electric bill than I was about foaming.

I have a device at work (not exactly sure what it's called) but it will show me how much power this bad boy is pulling. Once I figure out how much it is I will share, and see if it's worth insulating :ban:

taylornate · May 26, 2009

Joe C said:
I have a device at work (not exactly sure what it's called) but it will show me how much power this bad boy is pulling. Once I figure out how much it is I will share, and see if it's worth insulating

Would be very interesting to see power usage before and after certain tweaks.

Having such a large freezer probably factors into this in your situation, but in general, what are the merits of a 2" thick collar vs. 1"? It seems like everyone uses 2x's... are 1x's too flimsy even for a smaller collar? It seems if 1x's were stiff enough they would be preferable for a few reasons: Cost of lumber, cost of shanks, room for insulation, and weight.

Precisely how do you determine how long your shanks need to be (i.e. how much length do the various fittings take up)?

Don't take this a criticism of your project. I'm just trying to plan out my own more reasonably sized keezer. It is my first order of business after I move next month

Joe C · May 26, 2009

Not criticism at all, I love questions!

My decision to go with 2x4's was based on the lid of my freezer. I found that it fit very well onto the base of the freezer, and would mimic the original lid. I wanted a thicker piece of wood for the look as well as durability.

the 4" long shanks were purchased because it was the first size that I saw that was stainless. Also, I knew that a 4" would fit through the wood, so I went for it.

Hope that helps, or clarifies it a bit!

WorryWort · May 26, 2009

Insulation shouldn't have a major effect on the electric bill. because cold air sinks, chest freezers will still be pretty efficient even if you lose a bit of insulation.

This is why grocery stores can afforably have massive freezers in the middle of a floor without lids.

I notice i can leave the lid open for a long time tinkering with stuff before it will ever drop as much as a degree.

taylornate · May 26, 2009

noeldundas said:
Insulation shouldn't have a major effect on the electric bill. because cold air sinks, chest freezers will still be pretty efficient even if you lose a bit of insulation.

This is why grocery stores can afforably have massive freezers in the middle of a floor without lids.

I notice i can leave the lid open for a long time tinkering with stuff before it will ever drop as much as a degree.

What is the temperature at the level of your collar?

IrregularPulse · May 27, 2009

noeldundas said:
Insulation shouldn't have a major effect on the electric bill. because cold air sinks, chest freezers will still be pretty efficient even if you lose a bit of insulation.

This is why grocery stores can afforably have massive freezers in the middle of a floor without lids.

I notice i can leave the lid open for a long time tinkering with stuff before it will ever drop as much as a degree.

This of course is assuming your temp probe is at the bottom of the fridge.

WorryWort · May 27, 2009

IrregularPulse said:
This of course is assuming your temp probe is at the bottom of the fridge.

taylornate said:
What is the temperature at the level of your collar?

You're both right, the top temp will drop. And my probe is about 1 foot off the bottom.

My point isn't that the temp won't change, but rather that the difference between a perfectly sealed collar and a mediocre one won't destroy your pocketbook!*

*Unless your fridge is in a hut in Afghanistan.

zoahed · May 31, 2009

Sweet build man very informative.

JonGoku · Jun 2, 2009

Fun looking build.

/subscribed

simpleton · Jun 9, 2009

How goes the Kilted Keezer of the Apocalypse?

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