This is specifically targeted to fly spargers. Do you back into you sparge amount off of your target volume, or do you use a formula? I have been following beer tool's sparge formula, but it seems to be a lot of extra run off that needs to be boiled down. For example, today my batch was 1.25 qt / lb which put me at 4.46 gallons for the mash in. Then the sparge volume of 7.12 gallons. I had almost 9 gallons to boil down to 5.5 which made for a long boil. Should I be backing into the sparge amount? The recipe had 14.25 lbs of grain in it. TIA.
Fly Sparging Question
- Thread starter Shay
- Start date
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I personally would not boil down 9 gallons to 5.5 for 2 reasons. 1. thats a long boil and I don't like to spend that much time brewing and 2. you'll get a lot of caramelization in your wort. Which could be great if you're brewing a scottish ale or something you want to have both a dark color and some sweetness.
Sparging with a normal 4 or 5 gallons you should get almost all of your sugar out, if there is some reason you don't have the efficiency to hit your OG just throw in an extra lb of your base malt.
I just fill up my HLT with a lot of water and then once my boil kettle is at 5 gallons or so shut off the sparge water and drain the mash tun. I end up with 6 ish and boil down to 5.5 ish.
Sparging with a normal 4 or 5 gallons you should get almost all of your sugar out, if there is some reason you don't have the efficiency to hit your OG just throw in an extra lb of your base malt.
I just fill up my HLT with a lot of water and then once my boil kettle is at 5 gallons or so shut off the sparge water and drain the mash tun. I end up with 6 ish and boil down to 5.5 ish.
wrestler63
Well-Known Member
I generally use more sparge water than needed as well. Just stop sparging when u hit your target pre boil amount and then i use the remaining hot water for clean up.
I haven't fly sparged with BTP yet but did you try clicking on the "lock" radio button in the fly sparge details window? That sets the sparge amount based on the batch size, boil off rate, and boil duration you set up on the main window.
Even more basic, you have a mash in line, followed by a rest line, followed by a fly sparge line in your schedule correct?
Even more basic, you have a mash in line, followed by a rest line, followed by a fly sparge line in your schedule correct?
SpanishCastleAle
Well-Known Member
I fly sparge and 'back into' my sparge amount as you put it. I figure out the total water needed to hit my preboil volume and then split it between mash/sparge. For typical/average gravity beers this usually comes very close to 50% for the mash and 50% for the sparge. For example, a typical mash on my system for an 8 gal pre-boil/5.75 gal post-boil volume I'll typically mash with 18 qt and sparge with 18 qt.
This works fine for typical/average gravity worts. If it's a low gravity beer I have to mash thinner so I don't have too much sparge water...if it's a higher gravity beer I have to mash thicker in order to have enough sparge water.
This works fine for typical/average gravity worts. If it's a low gravity beer I have to mash thinner so I don't have too much sparge water...if it's a higher gravity beer I have to mash thicker in order to have enough sparge water.
kanzimonson
Well-Known Member
I like to choose a specific ratio of mash water (depending on how much grain I'm using and what I can fit in my equipment it's usually between 1.4-2qts/#). Then I calculate water loss to absorption (.13gal/# with my crush). Then I find out how much I'll need to hit my target pre-boil volume. I usually hit it just right within a quart.
But I used to make a ton of sparge water and just keep adding until I hit my volume. I switched methods to see if my efficiency would change. It didn't, but now at least I don't have to heat as much water.
But I used to make a ton of sparge water and just keep adding until I hit my volume. I switched methods to see if my efficiency would change. It didn't, but now at least I don't have to heat as much water.
Bobby, yes I have a mash-in line, the rest line, I do add a step for vourlafing so that that figures into the brew day time line, and the sparge line. I have not tried to lock the sparge, but I will give that a shot. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the tips guys. I need to do a better job monitoring the gravity during the runoff.
