Changeduser123
Well-Known Member
Have to think about this. I'll probably do a taller collar and keep the original lid. That puts the thickness closer to two inches to be sure it's sturdy. Do I still need to insulate at that thickness? Of course, if I do insulate I could cut bigger holes in the insulation at the faucet locations and stick with a smaller shank. How much of the shank needs to stick out the front to accommodate the faucet?
The reasons why I kept 1x8 instead of 2x8 are:
* I used pine which is sturdy enough.
* the 2x8 selection at the local home depot was not really good looking. It was construction wood. It would have required a lot of sanding, and I do not have any power tools other than a drill.
* I wanted the collar to be light enough to be supported by the original hinges of the freezer. After trying, it hold fine, but I am not sure using 2x10 in your case will be light enough. It was important for me to be able to put a keg inside the freezer without having to carry it over the collar, so double hinges was a requirement.
I am pretty sure that if I had used 1x10 pine it would be sturdy enough. I used metal hardware (in a L shape) plus glue to attach the different pieces, and it feels strong. You noticed the front piece is a door, so it would be even stronger if it was part of the collar.
For the insulation, I am sure you could get away without it, but your freezer might not like it on the long run. It is cheap to add, and it keeps air AND moisture out.
For the shank size, I am not sure were the 5 1/8 is measured. But I am sure you can ask whatever homebrew store you will get your parts from to help you decide on the size that will fit your design.