What should I do with non-threaded ball valves?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fuzzybee

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Messages
577
Reaction score
148
Location
Marietta
I picked up 3x 1/2" stainless 3-piece ball valves on the auction site. They were sold as threaded. Of course, when they arrives, they are not. Knowing my luck, the seller won't refund. If this is this case, does anybody have any suggestions on what to do with them? Would it make sense to have somebody weld on some sort of coupler?
 
More than likely, it would be cheaper to just buy threaded valves off of eBay. You can always sell those also. - Dwain
 
Can you thread the end plates? But even if you can you will need to buy a 1/2' npt tap, or get someone to do it for you.
 
Yeah, I plan on disputing. Knowing how the eBay / PayPal conglomerate work, though, I'm definitely not counting on getting anything back.

Looks like I may need to find a welder.
 
OK - dumb question: I can buy a tap & die set to get them threaded, but I've never done that before. On a level of 1 - 10, how difficult is this? If I wanted to get them threaded, what sort of profession would handle that?

Thanks for the responses, everybody.
 
A machine shop could do it super quick and probably cheaper than the price of the tap set.
To do it yourself, it's easy, just clamp the part good, and make sure you're going in straight with the die. turn slowly and use some sort of oil since they're stainless.
 
You'd normally drill to 23/32 to tap for NPT. If you're off by too much I'd be worried about what kind of sealing you get from your threads.
 
If the inside diameter of the valves is around 7/8in. ,there probably socket-weld fittings ,you`ll need to get a 1/2in. X2in. ss nipple,cut it in half and have it tig welded to the flanges.
 
Fuzzybee,
Not only all of the above, but those valves will be harder than Superman's kneecaps. You would have to buy really expensive bits/taps/dies, as well as a drill press to drill straight. - Dwain
 
suggest you go to a machine shop or buy new valves instead of having your first tapping experience on stainless. especially if it's potentially cast material.

alot can be difficult.
 
how much did you pay for them? Might be able to sell them if you can't get the $$ back and save the frustration of dealing with the moron seller.
 
if you can't get your money back, maybe try silver soldering a piece of copper pipe with a fitting to one of the valves.
 
If you could take them apart and mail the flanges to someone here like GreenMonti or Swagman , I`m sure you`d be more than happy with the outcome.

Just a shot. Don`t know if they`d do it or not.
 
Update -

The seller has agreed to give me some of the money back, and I'll keep the valves.

I figured I could take off the flanges and have one of the types of quick connects welded on. What's the current recommendation - tri-clovers, quick-disconnects, camlocks, or something else? Do all of these come in a form that would allow me to have them welded onto these flanges?
 
All three of your suggestions above are common around here. Cam locks seem to be relatively new, but so far it looks like people are happy with them. I personally think the TriClovers look cool if you have the money for them. Seem simple for cleaning and what not too. No ball bearings to worry about like on a standard QD. Plus I tihnk they just give the brewery that extra "commercial" look:D
 
Back
Top