Yet another newbie yeast question

[i_heart_hops]

Hello again, as it seems understanding yeast is my downfall in this process, I have another question: (ok, actually 2)

1) When using a kit, the packet of yeast they provide says on it to prepare it, following whatever directions they put on it. Yet the directions of the whole kit say DO NOT prepare yeast, pitch it dry....which is right?? Does it matter that much, will either one affect flavor/fermenting duration etc more than the other?

2) How in the world does one make a yeast starter, is it necessary? And what about liquid yeast? Is this a more advanced technique??

I would greatly appreciate any more insight into the happenings of our little yeast friends....thank you!!

 

[BlueHouseBrewhaus]

First, I usually threw out the dry yeast that came with a kit unless it was a name brand (Fermentis, Mangrove Jack, etc). You don't know how long that pack sat on the shelf and many are undersized. Other than that, you can get fine results just pitching the dry yeast pack. However, it makes sense to coddle your yeasties and rehydrate them before pitching. The yeast companies will either give you directions on the pack or you can go to their website. It's not hard.

Do not make a starter with dry yeast. You'll just use up the nutrients that are already built into it. With liquid yeast, most brews will benefit from a starter to get a high enough yeast count. There are calculators on-line that will help you - Mr. Malty, YeastCalc, etc. They will tell you how big a starter you will need to get enough yeast. Making a starter basically means boiling 1 or 2 quarts (or liters) of water and adding a certain amount of DME (this is what the calculators will help you with). You then cool it to about 70F and put it in a sanitized glass container - ideally, a laboratory flask. Pitch your liquid yeast into this and place some sanitized foil over the top. Then give it a swirl every time you walk by it or use a stir plate. Give it about 24 hours. It's kind of like making a mini batch of beer. The yeast will multiply and be happy. You can then pitch the starter into your brew.

 

[GrayHiker]

I agree with BlueHouseBrewhaus' post. Let me expand a little, after first saying that I haven't used dry yeast for 20 years...I'm a fan of Wyeast smackpacks and propagating with starters.

Yeast should definitely not be an after-thought...they are as important to a good result as any other part of the process. Yeast cell count and viability are two important aspects of that...also vitality, but that's more difficult to measure.

This year I went a little over the top in learning about and experimenting with propagating yeast...built a stirplate (actually built five until I got it right), and bought a microscope/hemacytomer for counting. Someday if you really get serious about it I recommend both those things.

As BHB said, you should match your cell pitch count with the specific gravity of your wort...more is fine, less can lead to issues (look up lag time)...and there are calculators that can give you the number you're shooting for. But how do you know when you're there...without counting you can only do a rough estimate. For example, suppose the calculator tells you that you need 350 billion cells. The two major liquid yeast suppliers say 100 billion cells per vial or smackpack. The accepted result from a 2L starter is doubling...but stepping up your stepup won't double. Ie, if one stepup provides 200 billion, stepping that doesn't provide 400 billion. This assumes no stirplate. So after two stepups, where are you...without counting you won't know, but if you pitch that your wort will ferment nicely. So how important is counting...probably not that important so long as you're diligent in your estimating, but for me it's become one more aspect of homebrewing that's fun.

Look up stirplates...many hits on a google search, as well as a good section on this forum. My advice...if you decide to build one, don't cheap out...get a decent 12v motor, power supply, speed control and magnets. I bought a fresh smackpack of Wyeast 1056 and stepped once in a 2L starter on a stirplate...counted somewhere around 350 billion cells. Woohoo...stirplates...don't leave home without one.

There's way more to learn about yeast than you can do in an hour or two of surfing, and there's still the fact that you want to brew...lots to learn about that as well. So use dry yeast for now if that's what you're comfortable with...it works, and if you don't like your beer it probably won't be because of that. I agree with BHB...chuck the stuff that came with the kit and buy a couple of packets that have a chance of a reasonable viability...it's cheap. Your LHB store can advise you. And rehydrate prior to pitching...helps the little buggers hit the ground running.

Good luck.

 

[Zibe]

Brewed for years with only dry yeast. Agree with above Fermentis/Safale, Mangrove Jacks (never used but hear good things), and Danstar/Lallemand** Nottingham are all fine, rehydrate and go (if I brew low gravity session beers I pitch dry...shhh don't tell). Any other dry yeasts I would probably just put in the fridge and keep for emergencies like a stuck fermentation or zombie apocalypse.

••Lallemand/Danstar Windsor yeast instructions: Don full biohazard suit and remove from kit with tongs. Best bet is to deposit immediately in boiling water to obliterate this strain from the planet but a garbage can will work. If the zombie apocalypse happens and you find a packet rip it open dump contents on ground and scrape dry dead zombie skin into packet to pitch for better results. (If the Three Floyd's Brewery was destroyed in the apocalypse feel free to call this beer "Zombie Dust" if not beware copyright infringement).

••• These Windsor statements are not a reflection on the Lallemand/Danstar company as Nottingham is my favorite yeast...ever.

 

[i_heart_hops]

Thank you all for your advice, I hope to experiment with different yeast soon!
I have had pretty good luck so far with dry yeast that comes in the kits, but after only 2 brews, I'm already pumped to step up my game!!

 

[beardown2489]

I am, to a lesser extent, on the same path as grayHike. I've been geeking out about yeast for 6 months now.


This should be your progression. Get a stir plate. Grow more yeast to pitch. You'll see some improvement.

Then learn about pitch rate and learn how to pitch proper amounts. You can pitch to much but I doubt you'd do that early on.

Then you get to point where you realize the amount of yeast you pitch is only so beneficial and that temperature control is really the next step.

Then you'll start building a fermentation chamber.

It's a fun ride.

To be honest, I might suggest controlling fermentation temps before learning about pitching rates. I've seen lots of guys on here adamantly state that they never pitch "proper" amounts. They say as long as they provide a good home for yeast growth, everything turns out fine.

Good luck with whatever path you choose. It's fun.

 

[Zibe]

Personally I would go fermentation control before pitch rate but I guess it depends. I used to live in texas where a ferm chamber is vital but now live in ohio with a basement that stays right in my optimal range year round. One thing I will say though is that for years I never brewed the same beer twice and therefore could never pinpoint pros and cons of anything. As boring as it might be brewing the same beer a few times and then tweaking a thing here and there has taught me a ton.