Yeast Nutrient

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modelflyer2003

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Next weekend I plan to brew my fourth batch, Caribou Slobber. I purchased yeast nutrients (LD Carlson urea and diammonium phosphate) and an extra yeast packet. With the previous batches I was concerned that I couldn’t get all the way down to the target FG, so for batch #3 I rehydrated one package of yeast, then at the last second decided to sprinkle another yeast packet on top before putting on the airlock. The beer was fine. My questions are: Which would be the most beneficial, adding the yeast nutrient or adding a second yeast package? I know that you can make great beer without doing either, but if I add both, I am concerned about getting too vigorous a fermentation, needing my blow-off tube. I want the beer to fully attenuate. I am sure neither alone could hurt the process. Second question is in regards to when to add the yeast nutrient. I have read on posts that they added the nutrient when there is ten minutes left in the boil. Is this the ideal time to add? Also there seemed to be no set amount of nutrient that is universal. The package says to add “1 TSP PER GALLON MUST”, which doesn't make sense to me. Must? I didn’t read anyone’s post that said he/she added 1 teaspoon per gallon of wort.
 
I've never used the Carlson yeast nutrient, but the Northern Brewer website says it's recommended for wine, mead, and cider. I use Wyeast nutrient - it's for beer or wine. They package the same product and label it for beer or wine separately, but it's the same product according to their customer service.

Assuming you're brewing the 5 gallon Northern Brewer extract kit, one 11 gram packet should be right as long as you rehydrate it correctly. (Many brewers don't rehydrate and get good results.) I wouldn't add a second packet. They say no aeration is needed, but I aerate some by pouring the wort into the fermentor from shoulder high. JMO.
 
Must is referring to "grape must" or "apple must"; the industry term for pressed grape or apple juice prior to fermentation. Yeast nutrient is primarily used in wine or cidermaking. The fruit juices are typically devoid of free amino nitrogen that serves as nutrient for yeast, so come people will add the nutrient to the must.

Some recommend the use of yeast nutrient in high gravity beers. It looks the Caribou Slobber comes in with an expected OG of 1.052, which isn't high gravity. If you really want to add it to the wort, 10 minutes remaining in the boil is a good time point.

I wouldn't think you need it for that recipe. What was your target FG, and what were you hitting. As @ncbrewer said, you should be good with one 11 g packet of yeast, provided it is fresh. Which yeast were you using, how old was it, and what were you fermentation conditions? Aeration should also be done, either by splashing the wort (pouring from shoulder height) or vigorous stirring.
 
I noticed the default yeast for the NB Caribou Slobber kit is Danstar Windsor. If that's what you're using, don't be disappointed if FG is a little high - Windsor can't ferment maltotriose, and attenuation is lower than most yeast.
 
I noticed the default yeast for the NB Caribou Slobber kit is Danstar Windsor. If that's what you're using, don't be disappointed if FG is a little high - Windsor can't ferment maltotriose, and attenuation is lower than most yeast.
I will be using the Danstar Windsor yeast.
 
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