Yeast nutrient & DAP

[fury556]

I'm starting to worry about what I am using with my first batch of mead. For nutrients I am using http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/3001316/yeast-nutrient-2oz and for DAP I am using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064H0MM4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 . Did I choose the correct stuff? I used 3 grams of each in the must before adding the yeast, added another 2 grams of each at 24 hours. I'm making a 3 gallon batch, 10lbs of wildflower honey, the OG was 1.126. For yeast I am using 2 packets of LALVIN K1V-1116. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Arpolis]

The stuff you got is fine. I am not savvy on the amount you need to use in grams but I am sure you are right on track from how it sound. It is good to use the white crystals (DAP) up front and then step feed the tan powdered nutrient over time. Are you having any bad results to make you ask these questions or just trying to preemptively prevent "disaster"?

 

[Golddiggie]

The forums over on the Got Mead site has the info for grams conversion. I used to know it, but I just use the dosage recommended on the package.

You can also use this yeast nutrient, which I have (bought the 1# bag, and put it into jars). I would also get yeast energizer which I also got in the 1# bag size last time (put into jars). Check your LHBS or the ones you prefer to order from, for both (at better rates). It was cheaper for me to get the 1# bags of each then to get even half that in the small jars. I do have some DAP left in a bottle, which I haven't used in some time. Basically since getting the other stuff I've not used it. The nutrient has DAP in it, so I see it as the best of both worlds.

BTW, with a 3 gallon batch size, ONE packet of yeast is plenty (good for 1-5 gallon batch sizes). Next time, don't use more yeast than you need. Safe the other packet for another batch.

 

[fury556]

The stuff you got is fine. I am not savvy on the amount you need to use in grams but I am sure you are right on track from how it sound. It is good to use the white crystals (DAP) up front and then step feed the tan powdered nutrient over time. Are you having any bad results to make you ask these questions or just trying to preemptively prevent "disaster"?

I guess everything is going fine so far, fermentation seemed a bit slow to start, compared to the last 2 batches of beer I made. I've seen a lot of recipes call for Fermax or Fermaid K which I couldn't get at the time and the stuff I bought appeared to be the same thing but I wasn't sure. I just don't want to add too much of either and end up giving my mead a bad taste. :cross:

 

[fury556]

BTW, with a 3 gallon batch size, ONE packet of yeast is plenty (good for 1-5 gallon batch sizes). Next time, don't use more yeast than you need. Safe the other packet for another batch.

I figured it would be best to pitch to packets since my OG was 1.126 and didn't wanna stress the yeast, and it's my first time and i'd rather overpitch than under.

 

[Golddiggie]

I figured it would be best to pitch to packets since my OG was 1.126 and didn't wanna stress the yeast, and it's my first time and i'd rather overpitch than under.

The OG would stress the yeast IF it was too thick/high OG for it to handle. IMO/IME, 1.126 (for a 3-5 gallon batch) isn't high enough to warrant tossing in another pack. IF you're really concerned about stressing the yeast, make a mead starter (different than making a starter for a beer). As it stands, you're well within the tolerance range of the yeast used (that batch will ferment to dry and be about 17% (yeast can go to 18% or better). IMO, you just threw away a packet of yeast.

I often make my mead must's to full strength (to hit the ABV tolerance of the yeast and not go to dry) and pitch just one packet in 4-5 gallon batches. Treating the batch correctly when making it, and until the 1/3 break is critical. Once you hit the 1/3 break, you leave it the F alone until it's completely done. This means you'll give it the nutrients either all up front, or in steps (until the 1/3 break) as well as aerate/degas it until the 1/3 break is reached.

There is information on the Got Mead? forums about adding nutrient in steps (until the 1/3 break) that you should follow. I did that for my initial batches, with good results. I've also added all the nutrient when mixing the must with solid results. IME, it's important to not only provide nutrients, but oxygen and degas the must while it ferments. Not doing so will give you more issues. Also, make sure it's fermenting within the temperature range for the yeast. Do whatever you need to in order to get that to happen.