Yeast flavor

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Scottyvance49

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I brew every weekend and keg the beer. I usually ferment for 7 days and then keg directly. Every time I have a strong yeast flavor. Is there a way to kill/settle the yeast quickly or does it just take time? I have moved to secondary once and it was better but still yeasty. How long does it take for the yeast to completely settle out of the beer? What is typical for commercial brewing and how long do they ferment?
 
The secondary won't help the issue at all, skip that.

I just use time, after fermentation I bump the temps a few days to ensure it's totally done, then cold crash. The yeast falls out after a few more days and the beer is obviously much more clear. I keg it, force carb it, let it sit a few more days and it's ready to go.

You're on a faster schedule though... you might start looking at BioFine and other clarifiers. Gelatin, etc. You will still need some time but it'll be a much quicker amount of time.
 
I have never cold crashed before so maybe this is my problem. How do you usually do it? It’s cold out side I could probably stick it on the garage it’s like 40 degrees in there right now. Or just stick in the fridge for a couple days? When keging do you put a filter on the end of the siphon? I used a grain bag on my last brew but it didn’t seem to help which I didn’t expect it to because yeast is tiny I was just trying something.
The secondary won't help the issue at all, skip that.

I just use time, after fermentation I bump the temps a few days to ensure it's totally done, then cold crash. The yeast falls out after a few more days and the beer is obviously much more clear. I keg it, force carb it, let it sit a few more days and it's ready to go.

You're on a faster schedule though... you might start looking at BioFine and other clarifiers. Gelatin, etc. You will still need some time but it'll be a much quicker amount of time.
 
I have never cold crashed before so maybe this is my problem. How do you usually do it? It’s cold out side I could probably stick it on the garage it’s like 40 degrees in there right now. Or just stick in the fridge for a couple days? When keging do you put a filter on the end of the siphon? I used a grain bag on my last brew but it didn’t seem to help which I didn’t expect it to because yeast is tiny I was just trying something.
If you don’t have temperature control for your fermenter, you can put your beer outside. Just be careful it doesn’t freeze.

The easiest thing to do is just give the beer more time. If you only have one primary fermenter, then rack to a secondary.
 
The reason you are having a strong yeast flavor is that you are not giving your beer enough time on the yeast. Never go by the calendar. The yeast don't have calendars. They work on their own time schedule and their work is not complete when you see airlock activity cease. I monitor gravity and when the gravity stabilizes I give it a few more days. I typically do not move my beer from the primary fermenter for two weeks or more. And I never use a secondary step. It is unnecessary under most circumstances.
 
Time.

Even the most simple basic ale tastes best when left longer in the fermenter than the archaic instructions that come with most kits suggest. When I began, patience was the most difficult lesson....now I won't even consider taking anything out till at least 3 weeks have past. There's a ton of threads on here on this subject... Welcome to HBT! I recommend starting by reading the many threads on why to skip the secondary as they usually cover just how much activity is still going on after primary fermentation is done.
:mug:
 
If you don’t have temperature control for your fermenter, you can put your beer outside. Just be careful it doesn’t freeze.

The easiest thing to do is just give the beer more time. If you only have one primary fermenter, then rack to a secondary.
I do have a secondary fermenter. (Carboy) I usually ferment in the bottling bucket. So the in your opinion the best way is to rack to secondary and keep cold for a few days and it all should settle? I’ll try’s it on this batch and see if it fixes it. Thank you.
If you don’t have temperature control for your fermenter, you can put your beer outside. Just be careful it doesn’t freeze.

The easiest thing to do is just give the beer more time. If you only have one primary fermenter, then rack to a
 
Time.

Even the most simple basic ale tastes best when left longer in the fermenter than the archaic instructions that come with most kits suggest. When I began, patience was the most difficult lesson....now I won't even consider taking anything out till at least 3 weeks have past. There's a ton of threads on here on this subject... Welcome to HBT! I recommend starting by reading the many threads on why to skip the secondary as they usually cover just how much activity is still going on after primary fermentation is done.
:mug:
three weeks? So I need to buy some more bottling buckets and airlocks I guess. And brew a month in advance. Thanks.
 
And I never use a secondary step. It is unnecessary under most circumstances.
I do. But it's not "most circumstances". My small, stove-top batches involve confining the hops in oversized bags and then, after cooling and removing the hops, chucking the whole lot, trub and all, into the fermenter. As soon as I've got a firm layer of trub on the bottom of the fermenter, I want to get the beer off the trub and the "green beer" goes into a second fermenter. For the reasons @kevin58 hints at, it's important the beer isn't bright at this stage as the yeast still has a lot of cleaning up to do. It also allows me to harvest the yeast which has fallen out of suspension from the secondary fermenter (unless it's a top-cropper). My full-sized batches are done properly, leaving the trub in the kettle. I can't say I've noticed any difference in quality, but I might if I left the beer for a fortnight on the trub and hop detritus.
 
what yeast are you using and at what temperature ?

secondary is not worth the oxidation exposure. just leave on primary til packaging
Us-05 and at 70 degrees in the house. It ferments just fine but just leaves a bad flavor even after I tried racking to secondary and leaving the sediment at the bottom and then giving it another week and then putting in the keg. Maybe just more time if there is not a way to speed the process up?
 
I gotta believe this is all about time as pretty much everyone has already noted.
Are you checking the Specific Gravity to see if your beers are actually done fermenting?

Cheers!
No. The first few times I brewed I checked gravity but I quit after that. I didn’t see the point as I know it is working because the airlock is bubbling and I’ve heard a lot that poor flavor comes from exposer to oxygen so I thought maybe this was the reason for the flavor issue. Having read everything you guys have said though it sounds like I’m not letting the yeast fulling do their job and then pulling off the beer. I just do it weekly because it is cheaper than buying a case at the gas station all the time but it sounds like to really get good results I need to leave it for a few weeks. So I will get a few batches going at the same time. I’m not trying to be a professional at this just trying to get a tasty brew I can drink regularly and doesn’t taste like yeast.
 
Maybe just more time if there is not a way to speed the process up?
The very point I was trying to make is that you cannot violate the natural laws and the most difficult part for some brewers is the self-discipline of "Patience". Trust me; It's worth the wait. In the meantime; Mitigating O2 exposure and risk of infection as well as countless examples strongly suggest skipping the secondary. If turnover time is an issue, then you need to get more fermenters.
:mug:
 
So the in your opinion the best way is to rack to secondary and keep cold for a few days and it all should settle?
It'll settle in your primary fermenter -- there's really no reason to rack it unless you need that primary for another batch of beer. Every time you move from container to container presents another opportunity for oxygen and infections to get into your beer.
 
I do have a secondary fermenter. (Carboy) I usually ferment in the bottling bucket. So the in your opinion the best way is to rack to secondary and keep cold for a few days and it all should settle? I’ll try’s it on this batch and see if it fixes it. Thank you.
If all you have is the bottling bucket and glass carboy I suggest you do one of two things:

Give the beer 2-3 weeks in the primary. This is what I do with most of my batches.

If you need to free up the bucket, then rack to the carboy. Use the spigot and some tubing to transfer to the secondary. Give the beer another two weeks. If you can cold crash, do it 1-2 days before packaging.

I don’t want to get into a debate about the merits of racking to a secondary with other users. I used to do it every batch. Now I mostly don’t. One reason I will is if I’m in your situation and I need to use a primary fermenter for another batch. http://wouldbebrewmaster.blogspot.com/2025/02/when-to-rack-to-secondary.html
 
You could brew 3 batches in a weekend and then give them 3 weeks. Or look into Kveik. Or buy some beer now and then.
With a batch a week, looks like you'd have overlap. Are these 1 gallon batches? Did you lose a bet or something?
 
If you used BRY- 97 or Notty you could rack clear beer to kegs in 14 days. I pitch at 64* for 3 days then up to 68* for 4 days(1.040-1.060) then crash slowly to 50* and keg on day 14.
I will add that a pipe line is the best way to go. My beers always taste better after 3 weeks primary then 2-3 weeks at 33* in the lagerator.
 
In the beginning, when it's in the "character attenuation" phase, you don't "taste" oxidation, you just notice things are missing.
First thing to go is aroma, followed by ever-lessening flavor, until it's a characterless flaccid beverage.
Then the widely stated "sherry and cardboard" thing can happen but it was over for the beer long before...

Cheers!
 
I usually ferment for 7 days and then keg directly.
I need to buy some more bottling buckets and airlocks I guess.
How many kegs do you have? Buckets are pretty cheap compared to kegs, but I suppose if you were really determined to brew once a week and only have one primary fermenter, you could use the kegs as your secondaries. Just leave them at ambient temperature for a couple of weeks before you carb and serve.
 
Target consumption and timeline the number of fermenters, aging/serving vessels and storage based on 2-3 weeks in fermentation and then a minimum 4-6+ weeks in aging/conditioning/serving. Brewing a five gallon batch every 10 days or so should yield about five beers a day once the pipeline is filled. Less than half that works for me, I use no secondary, 5 gallon kegs, a cool basement, and a good sized refrigerator. Its gets a little more complicated (loosey goosey) when mixing 4 week, 12 week and 24 week+/- style aging.

Makes one appreciate the local craft brewery folks even more (beyond just beer quality, variety, consistency and cost).
 
How many kegs do you have? Buckets are pretty cheap compared to kegs, but I suppose if you were really determined to brew once a week and only have one primary fermenter, you could use the kegs as your secondaries. Just leave them at ambient temperature for a couple of weeks before you carb and serve.
I have a carboy as well I just usually use the bucket because it is easier to move around. From more information I am reading I just need time. I think I can just move the beer to a secondary for two more weeks and the yeast should calm down.
 
So I do an all grain every week and I can’t afford a grain father so I just use my wife’s sous vide and mash at 160 degrees. I then mash out at 180 for ten minutes and rinse grain sacks. Then I add hops boil 45 minutes, add wirfloc boil 5 more minutes, add immersion chiller the last 10 minutes.

I use just 6 row, 2 row and rice. This time I added oranges. I just get all yeast flavor though. I have tried liquid packets and dry packets but I only ferment 7 days and then keg. It sounds like I have to wait three weeks and then cold crash and that should be clean beer I hope.

I’m trying to get it right. I’ve done multiple kits with malt extract in the past but still have had a yeast flavor problem so I think it is just time from what you guys are telling me.
 
Don't move the beer an extra time just to give it an extra two weeks to settle. Just get a couple more buckets. They're cheap.
K and just water and sani solution in the airlock and like three weeks ins the bucket sounds like. Also what is the best way to avoid sucking up settlement in the siphon? The yeast is still floating around in clumps but I think my problem is since I’m not letting it fully ferment I’m sucking up a lot of it.
 
If you're actually hitting that temperature note it will quickly denature the saccharification enzymes needed to make the wort mostly fermentable...
What temperature do I mash at then? And yes I am actually hitting it. It’s a sous vide dude and I have verified with an instant read thermometer.
 
Also what is the best way to avoid sucking up settlement in the siphon? The yeast is still floating around in clumps but I think my problem is since I’m not letting it fully ferment I’m sucking up a lot of it.
Yeah, you have to wait for the yeast to drop. Then start siphoning with the racking cane in the middle of the bucket and lower it gradually. it shouldn't go all the way to the bottom if you want clear beer.
 
What temperature do I mash at then? And yes I am actually hitting it. It’s a sous vide dude and I have verified with an instant read thermometer.
The typical temperature ranges for mashing range from 148F to 158F. You technically can go under 148F, but it's not usually a good idea (I can think of a few times where you might make an exception). Going over 158F is likely to result in very little fermentability since alpha amylase is denatured more quickly at that high of a temperature.
 
Active fermentation 5-7 days
Fermentation byproduct cleanup phase +2-3 days after final gravity reached
Yeast flocculation +7 to 10 days post ferment.

When you ferment in a leak prone bucket (leaky lid seal), there's definitely a compromise between giving it enough time on the yeast and enough time to clear against potential oxygen exposure. Moving it to a more oxygen stable vessel like a carboy is an attempt to fix that problem, but in the moving of the beer itself you expose it to more oxygen.

Best possible scenario is to get yourself some 7 gallon Fermonster PET fermenters. They can definitely stand up to the 2 to 3 weeks required to let the beer clear up, especially that super light style you're making. If that's your consistent beer recipe, I highly recommend getting a few ounces of acidulated malt into your recipe.

Lastly, do NOT cold crash a fermenter that can't handle pressure. It will suck room air in.
 
So I do an all grain every week and I can’t afford a grain father so I just use my wife’s sous vide and mash at 160 degrees. I then mash out at 180 for ten minutes and rinse grain sacks. Then I add hops boil 45 minutes, add wirfloc boil 5 more minutes, add immersion chiller the last 10 minutes.

I use just 6 row, 2 row and rice. This time I added oranges. I just get all yeast flavor though. I have tried liquid packets and dry packets but I only ferment 7 days and then keg. It sounds like I have to wait three weeks and then cold crash and that should be clean beer I hope.

I’m trying to get it right. I’ve done multiple kits with malt extract in the past but still have had a yeast flavor problem so I think it is just time from what you guys are telling me.

What's your starting gravity?

You certainly don't need a grainfather. You are mentioning grain sacks, though, which sounds like an amalgamation of BIAB and the little mesh bags used for steeping grains. If you are mashing grain to convert it to sugars, you want a big bag to loosely line your mash container, with the grain and water moving freely inside it. If you are using tiny, compact bags you may not even be extracting much sugar from the grain.

I agree with the other comments to reduce the mash temp to 150. The mash out probably isn't necessary.

Ferment cooler, and after fermentation gets going don't open it for a couple weeks. Then keg, chill, carb it up for a week or so and I would think you'll see an improvement.

There are lots of incremental things you can do to improve beer, if you stick with it and want to learn more, you can! But there's so much that you MIGHT do (but don't have to, and everyone has opinions about the best ways) you probably don't need to get overwhelmed now. Fix this low hanging fruit and see what you think.
 
Active fermentation 5-7 days
Fermentation byproduct cleanup phase +2-3 days after final gravity reached
Yeast flocculation +7 to 10 days post ferment.

When you ferment in a leak prone bucket (leaky lid seal), there's definitely a compromise between giving it enough time on the yeast and enough time to clear against potential oxygen exposure. Moving it to a more oxygen stable vessel like a carboy is an attempt to fix that problem, but in the moving of the beer itself you expose it to more oxygen.

Best possible scenario is to get yourself some 7 gallon Fermonster PET fermenters. They can definitely stand up to the 2 to 3 weeks required to let the beer clear up, especially that super light style you're making. If that's your consistent beer recipe, I highly recommend getting a few ounces of acidulated malt into your recipe.

Lastly, do NOT cold crash a fermenter that can't handle pressure. It will suck room air in.
So what about just fermenting in the carboy and not touching for a few weeks?
 
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