Wort into fermenter & Hot/Cold break material

[Grubba]

New brewer here with a newbie question: So I've been browsing the forum and noticed that some people just throw the whole contents of the brew pot into the fermenter after it's completely cooled. No straining out the hops or anything, it all goes in.

My question is: doesn't this also add in the hot & cold break material into the fermenter? From what I've read in Palmer's book, you don't want that material in the beer, right? So why are some saying it's no big deal to do that? Doesn't that approach kinda defeat the purpose of a fast cooldown using a wort chiller?

 

[unionrdr]

It leaves a thicker trub layer in the primary & less beer to me. I pour wort & top off water through a fine mesh strainer into the FV. Less trub,more beer. I get 1/2" of trub or less.

 

[ajf]

From How to Brew by John Palmer.
"[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Your wort should be cool before you pour it into the fermenter. If it is not, refer to Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for suggested cooling methods. But before you transfer the wort to the fermenter, you may have been wondering what to do about all the hops and gunk in the bottom of the pot.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]There will be a considerable amount of hot break, cold break and hops in the bottom of the boiling pot after cooling. It is a good idea to remove the hot break (or the break in general) from the wort before fermenting. The hot break consists of various proteins and fatty acids which can cause off-flavors, although a moderate amount of hot break can go unnoticed in most beers. The cold break is not considered to be much of a problem, in fact a small amount of cold break in the fermenter is good because it can provide the yeast with needed nutrients. The hops do not matter at all except that they take up room. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In general however, removal of most of the break, either by careful pouring from the pot or by racking to another fermenter, is necessary to achieve the cleanest tasting beer. If you are trying to make a very pale beer such as Pilsener style lager, the removal of most of the hot and cold break can make a significant difference."[/FONT]


[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I've always left as much of the hot break and hops behind as I can, because it is simple, and they could clog up the siphon. I now use a CFC, so the cold break doesn't form until the wort has left the kettle and ends up in the fermenter. If brewing anything but a pale lager, I accept the cold break and I haven't been able to detect any off flavors caused by it.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When brewing a pale lager, I transfer to a carboy, and leave overnight to let the break settle. Then I transfer to the fermenter, leaving the cold break behind, and pitch. I don't honestly know if this is really necessary, but it's never caused me any problems.[/FONT]


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[HoppyGilmore]

I just recently brewed my first batch. I followed some advice I found here (I think it was dfc's picture tutorial?) and did a whirlpool.

It definitely worked 100% as advertised. After cooling (to include cold break) I created a whirlpool and let it settle for 25 minutes. The hop material and all trub was in a nice big cone in the bottom center of the kettle due to centrifugal force. I played it safe and maybe lost a little wort, but I didn't suck up any sludge.

I racked it in to my bottling bucket and left all the gunk behind. I then used the spigot to drop all the wort in to my fermenter which aerated it beautifully.