Wiring PID MyPin TA4

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mrmedic

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I have looked at and read many threads already, some of them very helpful, yet there is still a problem I have. For testing purposes I have a 110v electric fan in place of the heating element for now. I have the supply line or hot line "Black" going to the top of the SSR and the other side going to my heating element. The bottom of the SSR with smaller screws has one black and one white wire going to the PID. I am getting power to the PID and the temp is in Fahrenheit and working well with my thermocouple type K. I have a cup of ice water near by that I use to drop the temp, therefore activating the preset temp in AL 1 @ 70deg. I hear a "click" yet power is not being supplied to the fan I have connected. I have some pictures here of what I have so far, if you have any advice please tell me. Thanks

Cheers!

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wbarber69

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I replied to your question in the other thread. Post a picture of the wire diagram on the side of your mypin
 

ej1332

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I can't see in the picture but is your pid connected to the right terminals on the pid? If you wired it backwards pid to contacts and line voltage to the coil it's possible you burnt the relay out.


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wbarber69

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It looks more like he ran + and - straight from the relay to the ssr. Which will never work. I don't think he burnt anything out I just don't think he knows what a relay is. But we need more pics of the side of his pid in order to see what he's trying to accomplish.
 
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mrmedic

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This is what I have a Mypin TA4 for my rims tube, I have read some people run wires from the input on SSR to the AL1 setting 5-6 and some have it on 3-4. Nothing seems to work???

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wbarber69

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A close up of the ssr. You may have an ssvr but I can't see from the pictures
 

wbarber69

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I'll try to explain this…. The way you have the alarm relay setup to the ssr will never work. The ssr wants dc voltage (+ and - terminals). The relay doesn't provide voltage because it is a relay (a switch, like a light switch). The relay would require you to have an external source of DC voltage where the - terminal on the ssr would go to the - terminal of the power supply. The + terminal of the ssr would go to one terminal on the relay (6) and the other relay terminal (5) would go to the + terminal of your power supply.
 

trimixdiver1

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Ok

Why are you using the alarm relay to control the SSR? Why not connect the SSR output of the controller to the low voltage side of the SSR?

The alarm contact will be wired just like the SSR output, like a switch. Only the hot line side will be connected to one terminal and then the other terminal will go to the load (fan)

So

Hot (black) will go to the controller power, then to one side of the SSR load side, the other side of the SSR load side will go to the fan Hot (black)

The Neutral (white) will go to the controller power, then to the fan neutral (white)

Connect a pair of 18 to 20 awg wires to the SSR output of the controller (+ and -) and then connect the other side to the input of the SSR, make sure you observe polarity. Also verify the input of the SSR is in fact low voltage DC input and not high voltage AC (aka 90vac and above)

You shouldn't need the alarm output as it provides just a ON/OFF output without any hysteresis. the SSR output should provide and proportional output with hysteresis via pulsing.
 

trimixdiver1

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Ok Wbarber I switch my wires to terminals 3-4 still nothing???

If you have a hot and neutral connected to the SSR like the picture sort of shows, your going to get a short. The SSR does not need a neutral. Remember hot in and hot out.
 

wbarber69

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He doesn't have a hot and neutral hooked up to his ssr output. Why don't we get some more detailed pics and see where we can help.
 
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mrmedic

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OK I will send you a ton a pics. I have hot wire in on the TOP of the SSR where it says the switch diagram this is where the switch takes place. The hot wire then goes to the outlet where the heating element is going to be pluged in. Now on the bottom of the SSR the smaller wires black and white are going to the PID on terminals 3 and 4 NOT AL 1 it says on the PID that terminal 3-4 is SSR. I will have pictures next. Thankyou for your help.
 
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mrmedic

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This is my SSR, the Top Right is hot load from supply "Blue" heat shrink, Top left "Red" goes to outlet for fan. Bottom of SSR both black and white wires, are going to the PID terminals marked SSR and polarity is checked.

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mrmedic

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The small black wire that is also connected to the supply, is powering the PID fyi. More pics to come . Sorry for the Orientation of the picture the hot wires from supply are in blue heat shrink tubing fyi.
 

wbarber69

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You have the wrong ssr to use with an ssr pid. You see where it says input voltage VAC. You need one that calls for 3-32vdc. Which is what your pid produces
 

wbarber69

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Now if you still want to use it with the alarm relay we can get that working. But you will sacrifice hysteresis.
 
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mrmedic

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DAMN! Just when you think, you sourced out everything you need, reading and looking you get the wrong one! Aghhh, I hate wasting money. So what is hysteresis?
 

wbarber69

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It's basically how the pid controlled the temperature by changing the voltage to the ssr by means of pulses. But a simple on-off can work just not as efficiently. Plus you have one of the only models of pid I've found that's cheap and can have the alarms set to go off depending on temperature swing.

Here is the ssr you are looking for
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30
 
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mrmedic

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I see thanks Barber, I'm going to buy the Auberns SSR, I want this to work as efficiently as possible. Is a heatsink needed for a 120v heating element?
 

wbarber69

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Plus you can upgrade to a 240v element without any more hardware.
 

wbarber69

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Yes it's what I'm using. Just be warned. About 70% of these cheapos don't last that long or have other issues.
 
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