Wiring my PID controller for BIAB

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panoz

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I've started building my own electric BIAB equipment and I want to add a PID temperature controller on it. I could use some advice wiring wise...

First of all I use single phase, three wires (L,N,G), mains supply for home use in my part of world.
My set up consists of a 3kW element, a pid controller, an SSR and I would like to add the necessary buttons to bypass the PID for the boiling process. Indicating lights to let me know if the element or other parts are in use could be useful. Securing it in terms of safety would be nice as well...
My thought are to have a mains switch and then Mash/Boil switch. When in Mash the PID is engaged and when in Boil the PID is bypassed.
As for a timer I plan to use an external one and set it each time by hand.
Maybe an Amp meter could be nice too.

Is there any wiring schematic I could follow?

Do I need a pump outlet wiring for future use? In fact is a pump necessary for my set up or stiring it by hand is fine?
 
First you need to provide more information on your power feed. Is it 120v or something else? Are you planning on using an existing circuit, and if so, what is the amperage rating of the circuit breaker or fuse, and what is the gauge and material of the wire? If you are planning on adding a circuit, do you have space in your panel?

What is the voltage of the element? I.e., it is 3000w at how many volts? Here in the US, it is not at all typical to have a 120v circuit with adequate circuit protection and wiring to drive a 3000w, 120v element. And if it were a 240v element you could run it at 120v, but you would only get 750w of power, which would not be useful for brewing.
 
You are right.
It's 230V for my country. What I had in mind is to use the existing circuit which goes on a 16A breaker on the panel.

The rating of the element is 3kW/230V...
 
A 16a circuit should be fine, as you would be drawing around 13a. What are you planning to do for a GFCI?

I did see another of your posts asking about a 230v build. I am not really familiar with 230v, but if you have H-H-G you could likely use any 240v build (no 120v components) that you find.
 
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