Wiring diagram

[Andrewk311]

In many cases the multiple connections can be made by placing two wires onto a single component terminal. I can modify the diagram to show how this can work. In cases where that isn't possible, wires should be connected on terminal blocks.



Have you figured out how the element power / main power interlock works yet? It can be confusing, unless you are adept at reading schematics.



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If you could show that on the diagram that would be awesome! I somewhat figured out how the interlock works, mainly because the hot wire in only goes to certain components. I will probably end up buying an additional bus terminal for all the neutral lines because I don't think I can fit that many in to one side of the din rail terminal block.

 

[Andrewk311]

In many cases the multiple connections can be made by placing two wires onto a single component terminal. I can modify the diagram to show how this can work. In cases where that isn't possible, wires should be connected on terminal blocks.



Have you figured out how the element power / main power interlock works yet? It can be confusing, unless you are adept at reading schematics.



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Also, my SSR has a heat sink that came with it. Is it necessary to mount this outside the enclosure? Or would it be safe to mount it inside, on the DIN rail? I have no clue how much heat a SSR will actually generate

 

[doug293cz]

Also, my SSR has a heat sink that came with it. Is it necessary to mount this outside the enclosure? Or would it be safe to mount it inside, on the DIN rail? I have no clue how much heat a SSR will actually generate

The heatsink mounts on the outside of the box. You need to cut a rectangular hole in the enclosure that the SSR base can fit thru, so that you can mount the SSR directly to the heatsink. You need a thin film of heatsink compound between the SSR base and the heatsink base, in order to improve thermal transfer. Your SSR could dissipate up to 27W, which is enough to overheat it if it is totally enclosed.

Also, here is a modified version of the schematic which shows a way to route wires to minimize the number of terminal strip junction points. Note that no more than two wires terminate at any component terminal. In addition I changed some of the line widths to show which wires will carry the full element current. These are the only wires that need to be 12AWG. The finer lines could use down to 18AWG wire to make things easier.



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[Andrewk311]

The heatsink mounts on the outside of the box. You need to cut a rectangular hole in the enclosure that the SSR base can fit thru, so that you can mount the SSR directly to the heatsink. You need a thin film of heatsink compound between the SSR base and the heatsink base, in order to improve thermal transfer. Your SSR could dissipate up to 27W, which is enough to overheat it if it is totally enclosed.



Also, here is a modified version of the schematic which shows a way to route wires to minimize the number of terminal strip junction points. Note that no more than two wires terminate at any component terminal. In addition I changed some of the line widths to show which wires will carry the full element current. These are the only wires that need to be 12AWG. The finer lines could use down to 18AWG wire to make things easier.



View attachment 377718



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Sweet. Thank you!!! There is a hole cut for the heat sink that I have to modify a bit, I was just checking for aesthetic reasons. This is so cool I'm getting to work. Thanks!!!!!

 

[Andrewk311]

Sweet. Thank you!!! There is a hole cut for the heat sink that I have to modify a bit, I was just checking for aesthetic reasons. This is so cool I'm getting to work. Thanks!!!!!

That ground that runs to the SSR on the diagram...there isn't a terminal for it, can it terminate on the post on the enclosure wall?

 

[doug293cz]

That ground that runs to the SSR on the diagram...there isn't a terminal for it, can it terminate on the post on the enclosure wall?

A good place to ground the SSR base plate is at the screw/bolt that holds the SSR to the heatsink. You should also attach ground lugs to the enclosure cabinet and door. This requires metal to metal contact (any paint at the contact point needs to be removed.)

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[Andrewk311]

A good place to ground the SSR base plate is at the screw/bolt that holds the SSR to the heatsink. You should also attach ground lugs to the enclosure cabinet and door. This requires metal to metal contact (any paint at the contact point needs to be removed.)



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The cabinet was set up with the ground lugs, so I just attach all ground to those two, as well as SSR mounting bolt? View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479691744.872461.jpg

 

[doug293cz]

Exactly. Best place for the ground lug is between two nuts on the ground bolt.

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[Andrewk311]

Exactly. Best place for the ground lug is between two nuts on the ground bolt.



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Got everything fit, wiring tonight. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479763406.282803.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479763426.237742.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479763438.599333.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479763461.319514.jpg

 

[doug293cz]

Lookin' good so far!

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[Andrewk311]

Lookin' good so far!



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I noticed today, my blue LED switch is for 240 V service. I'm pretty positive that the website did not have a choice for 120 or 240… Will this not be compatible with my set up?

 

[doug293cz]

I noticed today, my blue LED switch is for 240 V service. I'm pretty positive that the website did not have a choice for 120 or 240… Will this not be compatible with my set up?

The switch will work. The LED will be a little dimmer at 120V than it would be at 240V.

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[Andrewk311]

The switch will work. The LED will be a little dimmer at 120V than it would be at 240V.



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Wiring done! I still have to finish some loose ends and clean up the wires with some zip ties but I fired it up and seems to work great....with the exception of a few things
First, the LED for the heating element comes on when switched, even if the main power to the box is off....does this mean the element is inactive because of your interrupt, just the LED is working?
And secondly...when I flip the element switch on first, then then main power switch, it makes a quite loud buzzing noise....not sure what that is.......

Any ideas?View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479957578.613251.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1479957620.166647.jpg

 

[doug293cz]

I'll look at it on Thursday. Worst case we might have to remove the interlock. Won't require any new components, just rerouting some wires, and removing some others.

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[Andrewk311]

I'll look at it on Thursday. Worst case we might have to remove the interlock. Won't require any new components, just rerouting some wires, and removing some others.



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Sweet, thanks! It seems like the interlock works as intended but for some reason makes that noise if power is switched on after the element is switched on. I will be able to test and see if the element actually won't heat while the main power is off this weekend.

 

[doug293cz]

I'll look at it on Thursday. Worst case we might have to remove the interlock. Won't require any new components, just rerouting some wires, and removing some others.

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I've encountered a setback. I do most of my computer stuff in Linux, but my design program is Windows only. This morning my Windows installation broke, so I cannot access my design program. Not sure how long this situation will last. If it's more than a day or two, I'll see if I can update the drawing another way to take out the interlock wiring to at least give you a workable system.

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[Andrewk311]

I've encountered a setback. I do most of my computer stuff in Linux, but my design program is Windows only. This morning my Windows installation broke, so I cannot access my design program. Not sure how long this situation will last. If it's more than a day or two, I'll see if I can update the drawing another way to take out the interlock wiring to at least give you a workable system.



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Hey man no problem at all! I think I can use it as is, it only does that bad sound when the element switch is on first. If I switch main power first it seems to work fine. Thank you though! Let me know. Also wanted to tell you my fiancés territory for work is the northwest and I ride alone with her sometimes. Maybe I can buy you a beer or two down the road as a thanks.

 

[doug293cz]

Ok, Windows eventually figured out how to fix itself, and I didn't lose my design files. I was afraid I was going to have to back everything up from Linux, and the reinstall both operating systems.

Looking at the designs vs. your symptoms now to see if I can make any sense of what's going on.

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[doug293cz]

Wiring done! I still have to finish some loose ends and clean up the wires with some zip ties but I fired it up and seems to work great....with the exception of a few things
First, the LED for the heating element comes on when switched, even if the main power to the box is off....does this mean the element is inactive because of your interrupt, just the LED is working? Which LED comes on in this state, the one in the element enable switch or the element firing LED (or is that not installed yet?)?
And secondly...when I flip the element switch on first, then then main power switch, it makes a quite loud buzzing noise....not sure what that is....... The buzzing is probably one of the relays switching on and off very quickly. This shouldn't happen.

Any ideas?

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[Andrewk311]

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It's the LED inside the switch, I didn't put an element firing lamp in.

 

[doug293cz]

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa. I made a mistake when converting from the original schematic (which is correct):



to the schematic showing how to reduce the wire junctions by placing two wires on some device terminals (incorrect drawing below):



The following schematic shows where the error is:



And, the corrected schematic is below:



Let me know if you have any questions.

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[Andrewk311]

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa. I made a mistake when converting from the original schematic (which is correct):



View attachment 378211



to the schematic showing how to reduce the wire junctions by placing two wires on some device terminals (incorrect drawing below):



View attachment 378212



The following schematic shows where the error is:



View attachment 378213



And, the corrected schematic is below:



View attachment 378214



Let me know if you have any questions.



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Man you must really know your stuff! Should be a simple fix too. I'll rewire that part tomorrow after work. Thanks man!!

 

[Andrewk311]

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa. I made a mistake when converting from the original schematic (which is correct):



View attachment 378211



to the schematic showing how to reduce the wire junctions by placing two wires on some device terminals (incorrect drawing below):



View attachment 378212



The following schematic shows where the error is:



View attachment 378213



And, the corrected schematic is below:



View attachment 378214



Let me know if you have any questions.



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There isn't any issue with substituting the LED firing lamp with a 120v neon lamp is there? I found one at a local shop for like 3 bucks

 

[doug293cz]

There isn't any issue with substituting the LED firing lamp with a 120v neon lamp is there? I found one at a local shop for like 3 bucks

Should work as long as it's an AC lamp. Response might be a little slower than an LED lamp.

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[Andrewk311]

Should work as long as it's an AC lamp. Response might be a little slower than an LED lamp.



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For the neutral lead to the firing lamp, I can tie in on any neutral post correct? Just because it would make life easier, I can tie the neutral into #10 on the EZBOIL?

 

[doug293cz]

For the neutral lead to the firing lamp, I can tie in on any neutral post correct? Just because it would make life easier, I can tie the neutral into #10 on the EZBOIL?

Should be OK, as the firing lamp draws very little current (as compared to the element neutral which will carry 16+ A current.)

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[Andrewk311]

Should be OK, as the firing lamp draws very little current (as compared to the element neutral which will carry 16+ A current.)



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Got everything finalized including the element lamp and ran a wet test last night. Works awesome. Thanks again for all your help!!!

 

[doug293cz]

Got everything finalized including the element lamp and ran a wet test last night. Works awesome. Thanks again for all your help!!!

Glad to here it. Enjoy your new system.

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