Wiring 240V Auber SYL-2352 for electric keggle...

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
Ok, so I am not an electronics techie, but I do electrical wiring and all (mech eng...)

So, I have the Auber SYL-2352 and I got a few questions.

First, I plan on powering it with 240V AC. It's my understanding this is OK? Is this correct? Just run 240V power to the correct terminals and it's good to go?

Next, I am using a K type thermocouple with it. When I have this thing all wired up, do I need to set it up to show degrees and tell it when to power on/off the 5500 element? Do I use manual or auto?

As for the two GFCI's, do I put those on the line before the distribution block, or do they go after the SSR? Do I just use the hot side of the GFCI's and wire them individually like that?

I am sure more questions will pop up... in the basement now wiring...
 

The Pol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
11,390
Reaction score
117
Ok, so I am not an electronics techie, but I do electrical wiring and all (mech eng...)

So, I have the Auber SYL-2352 and I got a few questions.

First, I plan on powering it with 240V AC. It's my understanding this is OK? Is this correct? Just run 240V power to the correct terminals and it's good to go?

Next, I am using a K type thermocouple with it. When I have this thing all wired up, do I need to set it up to show degrees and tell it when to power on/off the 5500 element? Do I use manual or auto?

As for the two GFCI's, do I put those on the line before the distribution block, or do they go after the SSR? Do I just use the hot side of the GFCI's and wire them individually like that?

I am sure more questions will pop up... in the basement now wiring...

I have done this before, so I can help.

240VAC is fine...

The PID will always show degrees as the PV, no setting necessary

If you are boiling, run it in MANUAL mode (70% is good for maintaining a nice boil in 8 gallons with 5500W)

GFCI's? Dont you only need one? I am confused about the GFCI question. You should have either a 240vac GFCI CORD or a GFCI circuit breaker on that circuit.

I dont know why youd have 2, or how youd wire 2, GFCIs

Id place the GFCI as far upstream of the element as I can, so that it monitors everything... placing it closer to the element will set up a situation where your control panel will then not be GFCI.

I really wish you werent in the basement wiring just yet :)
 
OP
Z

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
I have done this before, so I can help.

240VAC is fine...

The PID will always show degrees as the PV, no setting necessary

If you are boiling, run it in MANUAL mode (70% is good for maintaining a nice boil in 8 gallons with 5500W)

GFCI's? Dont you only need one? I am confused about the GFCI question. You should have either a 240vac GFCI CORD or a GFCI circuit breaker on that circuit.

I dont know why youd have 2, or how youd wire 2, GFCIs

Id place the GFCI as far upstream of the element as I can, so that it monitors everything... placing it closer to the element will set up a situation where your control panel will then not be GFCI.

I really wish you werent in the basement wiring just yet :)
I still have to get a 30amp double pole GFCI for the breaker box.

I guess my understanding for the two GFCI's you used in your box was to protect the element if it would short. You ran one lef of the 240 through each of the two GFCI's. Can you clarify this?
 

The Pol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
11,390
Reaction score
117
I still have to get a 30amp double pole GFCI for the breaker box.

I guess my understanding for the two GFCI's you used in your box was to protect the element if it would short. You ran one lef of the 240 through each of the two GFCI's. Can you clarify this?
I have a 50A GFCI breaker to protect everything. The outlets on the back of my panel were 120VAC 20A outlets... those were to power the pump and the HLT... not the kettle. The kettle element was fed through a 30A three prong outlet only.

I dont think that a GFCI outlet will work at all if you are feeding one hot through it and no neutral... it has to monitor current going out and coming back... with ONE leg through it there is no way to monitor this and it will trip instantly.
 
OP
Z

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
I have a 50A GFCI breaker to protect everything. The outlets on the back of my panel were 120VAC 20A outlets... those were to power the pump and the HLT... not the kettle. The kettle element was fed through a 30A three prong outlet only.
Ah, OK. I see now. Good thing I spent $16 on them and really didn't need them (althought I guess i will keep them once I get the entire setup done).

As for the 50 amp GFCI... I thought your parts list had a 30amp shown? This may be why I can't find a 30amp GFCI at lowes (or a few other places for that matter). If I use a 50 amp, I would have to run larger than 10g wire, right? Also, the SSR is only rated for 40 amp... This doesn't seem right to me. Can you clarify.

I appreacite it Pol as always...
 

The Pol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
11,390
Reaction score
117
Ah, OK. I see now. Good thing I spent $16 on them and really didn't need them (althought I guess i will keep them once I get the entire setup done).

As for the 50 amp GFCI... I thought your parts list had a 30amp shown? This may be why I can't find a 30amp GFCI at lowes (or a few other places for that matter). If I use a 50 amp, I would have to run larger than 10g wire, right? Also, the SSR is only rated for 40 amp... This doesn't seem right to me. Can you clarify.

I appreacite it Pol as always...
I had a 30A before, which is plenty for that kettle you are building. I have a 50A now...

The SSR will only have 23A across it, so a 40A SSR is PLENTY of SSR.

You can get 30A GFCIs, but you have to buy them online or I get mine at Menards, Lowes never carries them here.
 
OP
Z

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
You can get 30A GFCIs, but you have to buy them online or I get mine at Menards, Lowes never carries them here.
I couldn't find a 30amp 2 pole gfci breaker at Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards. I will probably have to go to a local shop or get it online. Any chance you want to sell your old 30amper?
 

The Pol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
11,390
Reaction score
117
I couldn't find a 30amp 2 pole gfci breaker at Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards. I will probably have to go to a local shop or get it online. Any chance you want to sell your old 30amper?
Nahh, I am keeping it around so that I can use it later, if need be, for future projects :D
 
OP
Z

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
Ok, so I am still having problems with wiring this PID up to my keggle. I have the output wired to the SSR and for some reason, when I have the set point below, as well as above the reading temp, I am getting output from the SSR to my 3 prong oulet (for the keggle).

I don't know what settings I should be using in the PID menu... such as OP-A (0=time porportional output, 1=linear current output, 2=amplitude proportional output) etc...

The manual can be found here;

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual%20version%203.4.pdf

I am pretty stumped, so if anyone could help me out with their initial settings, that would be great.
 
OP
Z

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
Ok, so, it looks like I had this wired right. I wanted to test it with a multimeter before using the element. Apparently, since I am a ME, not an EE, I didn't know that SSR's have leakage current, so when the SSR is triggered off as well as triggered on, the multimeter was still reading 246V. Fixed this by using a temporary 100W lightbulb accross the 120V leg of the SSR and it is working as designed. So, for future knowledge, you will need a load more than say 1A to see if the SSR is cycling correctly with your PID.
 

Tiber_Brew

It's about the beer.
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
2,542
Reaction score
276
Location
Upper Peninsula
zinger,

I'm interested in your build. Do you have any schematics and/or sketches of your wiring?

I'm looking to wire up two PIDs and SSRs for an HLT and BK. I, too, am an ME who knows d*ck about sparky stuff. I'm getting the idea, but any help would be awesome!

Thanks!
 
OP
Z

zinger084

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
tiber_brew

just getting down to this in my email. yes, i have a wiring diagram. i'll try and dig it up within the next week...
 
Top