Where should holes be?

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coffeediver

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I about ready to punch holes in my Blichmann 20 gal MT for my autosparge. I will be doing 5 and 10 gallon batches. What would the normal amount of water be in the MT for these amounts giving a couple of inches of water on top of the grain bed? And at what level should I punch the holes?


Barry
 

Grizzlybrew

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I've got to admit, I was expecting a lot different topic when I read the title. And my first thought was, "awwww... that's sad. But, I know we can help him out."

But, Blichmann stuff, I can't help you with
 
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coffeediver

coffeediver

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WoW. Really have to read your topic aloud to yourself several times before hitting submit.
 

kegtoe

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i was going to say: one in the front and one in the back.

WoW. Really have to read your topic allowed to yourself several times before hitting submit.
I've got to admit, I was expecting a lot different topic when I read the title. And my first thought was, "awwww... that's sad. But, I know we can help him out."
 

shamrockdoc

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Let's see there's a pretty pinky one in the front...then there's a stinky one in the back. There is also one right below the nose that can be used in a pinch.
 

Schnitzengiggle

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Let's see there's a pretty pinky one in the front...then there's a stinky one in the back. There is also one right below the nose that can be used in a pinch.
From reading this thread I will agree with the others, but I'd have to be a little more direct with my comment.

Between the legs, and asscheeks. Perfect placement!
 

Grizzlybrew

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I'm not sure if it's funny or sad that no one has even attempted to answer the question yet. I'm sure you've seen the instructions on Blichmann's site:

To install yourself, you'll need to punch/drill a 13/16 hole in your pot or cooler. A 7/8" hole will work, but it's a little on the big side. We recommend using a step drill or a Greenlee knock-out punch. A great source for these is McMaster.com . The step drill is part number 8841A24 (89315A42 for TiN coating) or a punch 3449A999 - requires a 3/8" pilot hole. This particular punch (Greenlee model 730BB) is special order with a 3 day lead time. Slug-Buster types are available in their catalog but do not work well in this application. When drilling stainless steel a moderate to slow speed is best to avoid overheating the tool. While hole saws will also work, they are difficult to use in stainless sheet metal.

As far as distance from the top, I would say an inch or two below the lip would be good. You wouldn't want the lid to interfere with the function of the sparge arm (if you keep the lid on during sparge), but also don't want to have a big mash (filled almost to capacity) and have the mash itself interfere with the arm's function. If I recall correctly, you adjust the sparge arm according to the size of your mash. I though there was some type of cotter pin to adjust the arm up or down. I'm not sure if the absolute position is super critical because you can adjust the arm.

If all else fails, just write them and tell them which kettle you have. I'm sure they'll help you out,
 
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coffeediver

coffeediver

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I did write them, just looking everywhere. I will be doing 5 and 10 gallon batches and the level will be to great to adjust. Just trying to measure twice and cut once. I do also have the Greenlee 13/16's punch so no problem there.

Barry
 
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coffeediver

coffeediver

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Personally I have been laughing my butt off. My questions was a hard one to answer because of the variables involved and I knew that going in. I was just wanting to get some feedback and I loved the answers I got.

Thanks all
Barry
 

Grizzlybrew

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Personally I have been laughing my butt off. My questions was a hard one to answer because of the variables involved and I knew that going in. I was just wanting to get some feedback and I loved the answers I got.

Thanks all
Barry
No problem. And , if you DO have questions about those other holes, we clearly have you covered on that one! :mug:
 
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