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What's up with my crappy efficiency?

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griffondg

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2nd brew in a row where I missed my target OG by quite a bit. This time it's a Stone IPA clone from AHS that's supposed to have a OG of 1.066. When I collected the 6.25 gallons into the brew pot is was somethig awful like 1.046 after temp adjusting hydrometer reading. I ended up adding 1 lb of DME and ended up with a OG of 1.055 when putting 5 gallons into carboy:confused:

I hit my mash temps right on so I'm not sure what it could be. I ordered the grain pre-milled and it's from AHS so I assume the crush is good.

I did a batch sparge and this time I only did 1 large sparge; last time I did 2 and was off a little less.

Thanks for any help:mug:

Eric
 

Beerrific

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Using AHS grain, one batch sparge and get 70%...that is what they calculate their recipe at.

How confident are you in your thermometer, hydrometer?

pH adjustments?
 

EALynx

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Are you stirring the grain well when you introduce the grain into the mash water? I have learned that a good stir will lead to good mash results. Other than that, do you have a good drain system in place? Some people do not realize that they are in fact encouraging channeling when they drain the mash. This will lead to a lower O.G. And finally, not all systems will give you the O.G. that a particular recipe states just because of the limitations of the system. A quick fix to this problem is just increasing your grain bill to give you the difference you are experiencing after you have tried a couple of batches. For instance, it took me 4 batches to dial in my system efficiency and from there I was able to adjust grain bills to give me my desired O.G. Good luck in your brews!
 

sudbuster

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What's up with my crappy efficiency?
griffondg said:
2nd brew in a row where I missed my target OG by quite a bit. This time it's a Stone IPA clone from AHS that's supposed to have a OG of 1.066. When I collected the 6.25 gallons into the brew pot is was somethig awful like 1.046 after temp adjusting hydrometer reading. I ended up adding 1 lb of DME and ended up with a OG of 1.055 when putting 5 gallons into carboy:confused:

I hit my mash temps right on so I'm not sure what it could be. I ordered the grain pre-milled and it's from AHS so I assume the crush is good.

I did a batch sparge and this time I only did 1 large sparge; last time I did 2 and was off a little less.

Thanks for any help:mug:

Eric
Man am I going to catch flack for this, but i seriously think i can help here because i've been there and done that. Your post sounds like one of mine from the past.

1st use a false bottom. Braid won't get it.
2nd quit batch sparging and start lautering (fly sparging) slowly for at least an hour.
3rd and most important, hold your sacc temp for at least 90min, better 2 hr. and ditch the iodine.

These are not my ideas, they came from Dave Miller, now a profesional brewer and author. Following his advise, i now consistently have mash efficiency of 92 -94%. No credit to me at all. I just followed directions. I'm sure a sh*t load of posts will come in saying i'm full of it. dont matter, results are results.

Cheers
 

brewt00l

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OldFarmer said:
Man am I going to catch flack for this, but i seriously think i can help here because i've been there and done that. Your post sounds like one of mine from the past.

1st use a false bottom. Braid won't get it.
2nd quit batch sparging and start lautering (fly sparging) slowly for at least an hour.
3rd and most important, hold your sacc temp for at least 90min, better 2 hr. and ditch the iodine.

These are not my ideas, they came from Dave Miller, now a profesional brewer and author. Following his advise, i now consistently have mash efficiency of 92 -94%. No credit to me at all. I just followed directions. I'm sure a sh*t load of posts will come in saying i'm full of it. dont matter, results are results.

Cheers
Not flack but I think it is important to acknowledge that not everyone wants to completely change their equipment and methods of brewing to achieve the same high efficiency that you are getting via your post......many are simply looking to identify a problem in their current process/equipment.

OP: you said this is a problem with the last two batches...what were you getting before and what has changed?
 
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OldFarmer said:
Man am I going to catch flack for this, but i seriously think i can help here because i've been there and done that. Your post sounds like one of mine from the past.

1st use a false bottom. Braid won't get it.
2nd quit batch sparging and start lautering (fly sparging) slowly for at least an hour.
3rd and most important, hold your sacc temp for at least 90min, better 2 hr. and ditch the iodine.

These are not my ideas, they came from Dave Miller, now a profesional brewer and author. Following his advise, i now consistently have mash efficiency of 92 -94%. No credit to me at all. I just followed directions. I'm sure a sh*t load of posts will come in saying i'm full of it. dont matter, results are results.

Cheers
I'm sure this works like a charm, but there are TONS of batch spargers on this forums that would also say results are results. I consistently hit 80% efficiency batch sparging an dmashing for only 60 minutes. I use a copper manifold though, not a braid.
 
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griffondg

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I use a Thermapen thermometer and it's very accurate, up until the battery died yesterday right after my mash:drunk: I'll get another thermometer just to compare.

I am stirring thoroughly (I think) but maybe not enough?

Yes, I'm taking the temps after mixing the grain and water and I hit it almost spot on; 151F

I'm using Fly-Guys MLT system and I really like it and would hate to move to a new system. I can just hear my SWMBO now if I told her that:eek:

Hell, I'd kill for 70% efficiency.

These have been my first two AG and I'm determined to get it right.

I agree that I'll probably have to up the grain bill for the next batch or two just to get the OG up.

Oh, I mash for an hour and don't use iodine...is that a big flaw?

thanks for the quick replies!
 

FlyGuy

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OldFarmer said:
1st use a false bottom. Braid won't get it.
2nd quit batch sparging and start lautering (fly sparging) slowly for at least an hour.
3rd and most important, hold your sacc temp for at least 90min, better 2 hr. and ditch the iodine.

These are not my ideas, they came from Dave Miller, now a profesional brewer and author. Following his advise, i now consistently have mash efficiency of 92 -94%. No credit to me at all. I just followed directions. I'm sure a sh*t load of posts will come in saying i'm full of it. dont matter, results are results.
While I am a firm believer in using what works for yourself, I would caution new brewers about this advice. Lots of us have had great success with SS braids, batch sparging, and 60 min rests. Don't be dissuaded just because one person has had a bad experience with them.

OldFarmer: no disrespect intended to you. I am glad you found what works in your system. I just think that your system is a bit atypical, and I doubt that this advice will be generally helpful to most brewers, so it should be attempted with caution.
 
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griffondg said:
I use a Thermapen thermometer and it's very accurate, up until the battery died yesterday right after my mash:drunk: I'll get another thermometer just to compare.

I am stirring thoroughly (I think) but maybe not enough?

Yes, I'm taking the temps after mixing the grain and water and I hit it almost spot on; 151F

I'm using Fly-Guys MLT system and I really like it and would hate to move to a new system. I can just hear my SWMBO now if I told her that:eek:

Hell, I'd kill for 70% efficiency.

These have been my first two AG and I'm determined to get it right.

I agree that I'll probably have to up the grain bill for the next batch or two just to get the OG up.

Oh, I mash for an hour and don't use iodine...is that a big flaw?

thanks for the quick replies!
I've never used iodine and 60 minutes is plenty of time for conversion. How is your sparge? Are you sure you are thoroughly rinsing the grain? What ratio do you use for mashing water/grain? I use 1.25quarts/lb or 1.33quarts/lb depending on my grain type.
 

FlyGuy

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griffondg said:
I use a Thermapen thermometer and it's very accurate, up until the battery died yesterday right after my mash:drunk: I'll get another thermometer just to compare.
Good idea. Or test it in ice water and boiling water. Those are relatively constant temps (just be sure to adjust your boiling temp for elevation).

I am stirring thoroughly (I think) but maybe not enough?
If you have any dry clumps of grist in your mash, your efficiency is really going to suffer. It also helps to stir and wait 5 mins before each run-off.

Yes, I'm taking the temps after mixing the grain and water and I hit it almost spot on; 151F
Assuming the thermometer is not reading low, that should be great.

I'm using Fly-Guys MLT system and I really like it and would hate to move to a new system. I can just hear my SWMBO now if I told her that:eek:

Hell, I'd kill for 70% efficiency.
You should easily get 70% efficiency with that system. I am getting in the 80's now, and I crush with a Corona mill.

These have been my first two AG and I'm determined to get it right.

I agree that I'll probably have to up the grain bill for the next batch or two just to get the OG up.
Yes, and yes. Keep that attitude for now, and you will brew good beer. As you dial in your system and process, it will just get better and you can drop down the grainbill to compensate. Just don't get discouraged!


Oh, I mash for an hour and don't use iodine...is that a big flaw?
Not at all. I suspect that's what most of us do with great success.

thanks for the quick replies!
You bet! That's what this place is for! Best of luck. :mug:
 

Beerrific

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Could it be a pH problem?

Also, you said you checked the gravity after collecting the runnings, before the boil? How did you temp correct? Some sources out there to make these corrections are not done well for high temps (they don't take in the nonlinearity correctly). I always base my efficiency calculation on my OG after chilling which is closer to 60 and I think I get better results
 
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griffondg

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I stir well but I just use a long spoon with no holes so maybe I still have dough balls that aren't getting mashed/rinsed correctly?

I'm using Beersmith to do the temp corection.

I'm using 1.25 quarts/lb. The first AG batch I did 2 equal sparges and this time I only did 1 large sparge. Is 2 (or more) better?

Attitude is good because I have too much invested to give up now:p I used my wort chiller for the first time and LOVE that

Eric
 

FlyGuy

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griffondg said:
I stir well but I just use a long spoon with no holes so maybe I still have dough balls that aren't getting mashed/rinsed correctly?
Yeah, something to watch out for, just in case. Do you add your grain to your water, or the water to your grain in the mash tun? The former works better for avoiding dough balls.
I'm using 1.25 quarts/lb. The first AG batch I did 2 equal sparges and this time I only did 1 large sparge. Is 2 (or more) better?
Water infusion amount sounds fine. The 1 vs. 2 equal batch sparges method is a personal thing -- some find that one works better than the other, some find the opposite. Go figure. It will only make a few points of difference in your efficiency either way, I bet.

Attitude is good because I have too much invested to give up now:p I used my wort chiller for the first time and LOVE that
Excellent! You see -- you are having good success already! Just try to keep improving on that. It will come, I am sure.

Cheers! :mug:
 

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You have mash ratio covered & sac time...the thermapen looks like it should be easily up to the task...the grain is from AHS and shouldn't yield a low %. PH is still a possible cause, tap water? How did the first batch turn out?
 
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griffondg

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I added my water to the grain...that's bad? OK, next time it's grain to water. Check. I think I'll get a mash paddle as well.

I'm using tap water and not sure of the PH.

The first batch will be bottled within the next day or two and the last time I tasted it, it was tasting pretty good. This batch had very good flavor as well so I am confident it will taste good at least.
 

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There are two possible causes of low efficiency. A poor mash, and/or a poor sparge.

The most likely causes of a poor mash are (in no particular order):
Poor grain crush
Inadequate mixing at dough in
Poor temperature control
Insufficient mash time
Excessively thick (< 1 qt water/lb) or thin (> 2 qt water/lb) mash
Unsuitable water. (Insufficient calcium, or wrong mash pH)
Wrong mashing technique. (Some malts require multi-step mashes)
Inaccurate hydrometer

The most likely causes of a poor sparge are (again in no particular order):
Poor temperature control
Insufficient sparge water
Inadequate mixing of the sparge water with the mash before draining
Sparging too fast
Unbalanced sparge volumes
Unsuitable equipment
Inaccurate hydrometer

Fortunately, many of these potential problems can be identified and corrected.

Does the thermometer read correctly in iced water (32F)
Does the thermometer read correctly in boiling water (212F at seal level - see http://www.apo.nmsu.edu/site/directory/kloomis/bpH2O.html for altitude corrections)
Does the hydrometer read 1.000 in 60F water (tap water should be OK for this test)
The crushed grain should have a small amount of flour, and none of the grains should be completely intact
After dough in, the mash should have a similar consistency to porridge with no dry grains or lumps.
If you mash for 60 minutes, that should be plenty. If less, you may want to try a starch conversion test, or increasing the mash time.
A simple single infusion mash should be OK for any normal IPA recipe.
Sparging too fast, and unsuitable equipment usually relate to fly sparging, and can be ignored for batch sparging.
When sparging, you want to keep the temp of the grains in the range of 165F to 170F. Many people do a mash out by adding boiling water to raise the temperature before starting the sparge. Others use extra hot sparge water for the first sparge.
If sparging with more than one batch, try to keep the batch volumes approximately equal.
If you are following a reputable recipe, it is unlikely that you will have insufficient sparge water.
When batch sparging, add the sparge water and stir really well for a couple of minutes. Then recirculate about 1/2g (until the runnings are clear) before draining into the kettle.
Determining the suitability of the water is really beyond the means of most homebrewers, but you could get a water report, and test the pH of the mash.

The best way to determine if the problem is in the mash or the sparge, is to test the gravity of the final running. A gravity of 1.010 to 1.025 indicates a good sparge. A gravity much above 1.025 would indicate that you are leaving a lot of sugars behind.

Hope this helps.

-a.
Edit >>
There were only about 2 replies when I started typing this. I must learn to type faster, or stop SWMBO from interrupting me. :)
 

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griffondg said:
I added my water to the grain...that's bad? OK, next time it's grain to water. Check. I think I'll get a mash paddle as well.
It's not bad per se. I just find it easier to do it the other way around, and I get a more even mix that way.

I'm using tap water and not sure of the PH.
If you can get some Five Star 5.2 pH stabilizer, this might help. Magic stuff, from what I have heard. That should solve any potential pH problems.

The first batch will be bottled within the next day or two and the last time I tasted it, it was tasting pretty good. This batch had very good flavor as well so I am confident it will taste good at least.
Yeah, that's the thing -- good efficiency doesn't necessarily make good beer. I think people get too focused on it. The taste is what matters most, and it sounds like you succeeded there. Just remember that if you plan your recipes for a certain efficiency and you always undershoot them, the beer will just be a bit more hoppy (not a big deal for an IPA, though). But if you brew something more 'delicate' you will want to compensate and lessen the hop bill a bit.

Cheers!
 

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I feel your pain. I have tried really hard taking into account a lot of tips on this board including a mashout. I guess I need to start taking some measurements and maybe get some iodine to see where the problem is but I'm starting to suspect the crush from my LHBS because I'm doing the same stuff lots of other people are and they get 80%+ efficiency.
 

sudbuster

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seefresh said:
I'm sure this works like a charm, but there are TONS of batch spargers on this forums that would also say results are results. I consistently hit 80% efficiency batch sparging an dmashing for only 60 minutes. I use a copper manifold though, not a braid.
I agree with you, but, the question asked was how to improve efficiency. Batch spargers are willing to exchange efficiency for saved time. From my experience, and texts on the subject, the 80% you are achieving is a great job, and about all that can be expected for batch sparging. You did a great job designing and building your manifold!!:mug:
 

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OldFarmer said:
I agree with you, but, the question asked was how to improve efficiency. Batch spargers are willing to exchange efficiency for saved time. From my experience, and texts on the subject, the 80% you are achieving is a great job, and about all that can be expected for batch sparging. You did a great job designing and building your manifold!!:mug:
I have to disagree there, I routinely get high 80's with my batch sparging. Though I am always a couple points higher when I fly sparge. I find I have to choose batch over fly on my system when I do smaller grain bills. I can't get sufficient grain bed depth to fly sparge because of the rectangular tun I use. But that was learned through trial and error just in figuring out my rig.
 

sudbuster

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FlyGuy said:
While I am a firm believer in using what works for yourself, I would caution new brewers about this advice. Lots of us have had great success with SS braids, batch sparging, and 60 min rests. Don't be dissuaded just because one person has had a bad experience with them.

OldFarmer: no disrespect intended to you. I am glad you found what works in your system. I just think that your system is a bit atypical, and I doubt that this advice will be generally helpful to most brewers, so it should be attempted with caution.
First of all, with all due respect, i must object to some of your statements above.
1st: "I would caution new brewers about this advice." Why? Are new brewers not inteligent, reasoning adults that can make uo their own minds? If efficiency is important to them, why not seek a better way to achieve the goal? Batch sparging will top out at 80%. Maybe some new brewers want more than that. While other new (or older) brewers are satisfied at that because it gets them out of the brewhouse sooner. Why not "to each his own?'
2nd: "I just think that your system is a bit atypical" My system is pretty much th same as all the others, i simply use it differently than you do. It consists of a 7 gal HLT, a 10gal Rubbermaid M/L tun, and a 10gal boiler.
3rd: "I doubt that this advice will be generally helpful to most brewers, so it should be attempted with caution." Again, why? Just because you don't brew this way? Do you believe "if it's not for you, then its not for anyone"? Let me assure you, The procedure used is in no way more dangerous than any other, so you may attempt it wothout any undue caution.
I am a firm believer in dong what feels right for you. I couldn't care less who batches or who flys. But, when some one asks a question, i have as much right to reply in a helpful manner as anyone, without condescention, and without a cause. P.S. this is a disussion between members and has been done in a civil manner and sincere respect. SKOL!! :mug:
 

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OldFarmer said:
First of all, with all due respect, i must object to some of your statements above.
1st: "I would caution new brewers about this advice." Why? Are new brewers not inteligent, reasoning adults that can make uo their own minds? If efficiency is important to them, why not seek a better way to achieve the goal? Batch sparging will top out at 80%. Maybe some new brewers want more than that. While other new (or older) brewers are satisfied at that because it gets them out of the brewhouse sooner. Why not "to each his own?'
2nd: "I just think that your system is a bit atypical" My system is pretty much th same as all the others, i simply use it differently than you do. It consists of a 7 gal HLT, a 10gal Rubbermaid M/L tun, and a 10gal boiler.
3rd: "I doubt that this advice will be generally helpful to most brewers, so it should be attempted with caution." Again, why? Just because you don't brew this way? Do you believe "if it's not for you, then its not for anyone"? Let me assure you, The procedure used is in no way more dangerous than any other, so you may attempt it wothout any undue caution.
I am a firm believer in dong what feels right for you. I couldn't care less who batches or who flys. But, when some one asks a question, i have as much right to reply in a helpful manner as anyone, without condescention, and without a cause. P.S. this is a disussion between members and has been done in a civil manner and sincere respect. SKOL!! :mug:
OF -- I had really hoped we had resolved this through the PMs you initiated to me.

To clarify, my interpretation of your response was that you basically told the OP to replace his system with your system if he wanted to 'fix' his efficiency problems. You directly stated that he would be best off ditching batch sparging with a SS braid, and his 60 min mash in favour of your system. Clearly this is incorrect since many of us here use batch sparging (with a braid) and a 60 min mash quite successfully. I am certain that the OP could easily get a 70% efficiency, like he was shooting for, with his current system (and without having to adopt the system you favour).

My concern was that your identification of the 'flaws' in his system were not correct, and that other new brewers might also interpret that batch sparging with a braid for 60 mins will necessarily lead to lousy efficiency. This was a false implication on your part that I was *politely* trying to caution people about.

Batch sparging, braids, and 60 min mashes work great for many of us. I would like to share that, especially with new brewers, because this is a great way to start AG brewing. If people want to improve from there, then I completely advocate trying more expensive and specialized equipment, and alternative mashing schedules and sparging techniques.
 

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FlyGuy said:
OF -- I had really hoped we had resolved this through the PMs you initiated to me.
You did not answer my last PM, what's more you offended me on the open forum, it is only fair the forum should also have my retort. You did the same thing on another thread. please post to the forum and leave out my quotes.
Sorry Mods.:) I'm done.
 

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It's interesting to me when people enter into a nice debate on technique etc that the NEWER subscriber is always the one to cry foul immediately. OldFarmer, I didn't see any insults being thrown out and would just recommend you toughen up and support your opinions if you really feel strongly.

Now, back on topic. I batch sparge with a braid and can get 80% simply or upper 80's with a little more work. Saying that batch sparging with a braid tops out at 80% is flat wrong, I'm calling you on it, and I don't mean to hurt your feelings at all. 2 hour sac rest and a one hour sparge. No thank you sir.
 

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Bobby_M said:
It's interesting to me when people enter into a nice debate on technique etc that the NEWER subscriber is always the one to cry foul immediately. OldFarmer, I didn't see any insults being thrown out and would just recommend you toughen up and support your opinions if you really feel strongly.

Now, back on topic. I batch sparge with a braid and can get 80% simply or upper 80's with a little more work. Saying that batch sparging with a braid tops out at 80% is flat wrong, I'm calling you on it, and I don't mean to hurt your feelings at all. 2 hour sac rest and a one hour sparge. No thank you sir.
Hey Bobby_M,
You're not troubling me, and we weren't discussing all the extra sparges to try to get the eff above 80%. I know the drill with the batch sparge technique and the "new batch sparge movement" advocated by Palmer and perpetuated on the net. I have a bazooka for my M/L tun, and if pressed for time, i'll do a single sparge after a 60 min sacc rest because i'm trading time for eff. I get ~80%.
Also, i bet you've got 30min in your multiple sparges to get above 80%. I know what it takes.but all this is beside the point. The original question, in case you lost track, was how to improve eff. Does anyone doubt my suggestions would not gain an increased eff to 92 - 94%? Then as far as i'm conserned, Original Question Answered. Like I said to flydude, I don't care what anyone does as long as they're happy. But, if i see a question, and I know my reply is accurate, I'll give my 2 cents. Batch sparges are not new, England has been doing them in farm houses for hundreds of years. Also i've picked up a bit of brewing knowledge over the 33 yrs i've been at it. What buggs me is when some guy is on a crusade.:)
 

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griffondg said:
2nd brew in a row where I missed my target OG by quite a bit. This time it's a Stone IPA clone from AHS that's supposed to have a OG of 1.066. When I collected the 6.25 gallons into the brew pot is was somethig awful like 1.046 after temp adjusting hydrometer reading. I ended up adding 1 lb of DME and ended up with a OG of 1.055 when putting 5 gallons into carboy:confused:

I hit my mash temps right on so I'm not sure what it could be. I ordered the grain pre-milled and it's from AHS so I assume the crush is good.

I did a batch sparge and this time I only did 1 large sparge; last time I did 2 and was off a little less.

Thanks for any help:mug:

Eric
It seems I'm the first to point out that taking a SG reading at mash/sparge temperatures and normalizing it to 60*F can be wildly inaccurate. This was the advice given to me when I posted in the middle of my first AG attempt. I tried to take a SG reading at 170*F and believed that I was way low from my target gravity. But if you crunch some numbers pretending your SG reading at high temp was just a few thousandths off, you'll see that it makes a huge difference at the normalized temp. My recommendation would be to let a sample cool down to room temp before taking its SG reading. That way you'll have a much more accurate picture of your efficiency.

Either that, or buy a refractometer to take SG readings on the fly. That would be sweet.
 

brewt00l

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OldFarmer said:
The original question, in case you lost track, was how to improve eff. Does anyone doubt my suggestions would not gain an increased eff to 92 - 94%? Then as far as i'm conserned, Original Question Answered.
In a sense yes, you are correct...it is a question on improving efficiency.

However, you have to admit that most people pose this question from the prospective of troubleshooting their existing process and gear and are not looking to purchase additional equipment and adopt a different process strictly for the sake of improving efficiency.

From my pov, I don't really see the point of buying additional equipment and spending additional time brewing to gain 10% where the benefit is only realized in the minor cost difference in grain bill. I am not knocking your results...they seem to work great for you!
 

Beerrific

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brewt00l said:
In a sense yes, you are correct...it is a question on improving efficiency.

However, you have to admit that most people pose this question from the prospective of troubleshooting their existing process and gear and are not looking to purchase additional equipment and adopt a different process strictly for the sake of improving efficiency.

From my pov, I don't really see the point of buying additional equipment and spending additional time brewing to gain 10% where the benefit is only realized in the minor cost difference in grain bill. I am not knocking your results...they seem to work great for you!
I agree with this. If you aren't getting 70% with a simple, by-the-book, batch sparge then something is wrong. I would advise to not change the process too much but investigate each step because it is likely that is you change everything at once the problem may still be there just harder to diagnose.
 

BierMuncher

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OldFarmer said:
...Man am I going to catch flack for this...
...I'm sure a sh*t load of posts will come in saying i'm full of it...
And still you seemed surprized by the response(s). ;)

But still...a little lively banter around here is always welcome. :D
 

sudbuster

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brewt00l said:
In a sense yes, you are correct...it is a question on improving efficiency.

However, you have to admit that most people pose this question from the prospective of troubleshooting their existing process and gear and are not looking to purchase additional equipment and adopt a different process strictly for the sake of improving efficiency.

From my pov, I don't really see the point of buying additional equipment and spending additional time brewing to gain 10% where the benefit is only realized in the minor cost difference in grain bill. I am not knocking your results...they seem to work great for you!
Thank you, brewt00l. for a very polite and civilized responce. It is nice to converse with someone that practices "net etiquette". I see your point,and agree with it. I often forsake eff. for time. On the other hand, if eff is the goal, and you are shooting for what the mega-brewerys expect, then the method mentioned will get it..... Thanks again.......:)
 

sudbuster

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BierMuncher said:
And still you seemed surprized by the response(s). ;)

But still...a little lively banter around here is always welcome. :D
hey BierMuncher,
What i expected , Since most folks are batch spargers, was some replys to the forum extolling the virtues of procedure, not a personal attack calling my equiptment and procedure "atypical" and use caution etc. I became quite angry at such a pompous, condecending, ignorant attitude. I appoligize to the forum for my conduct, but the matter could not be resolved by PM. Over and out.
 

Orfy

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I've never fly sparged and don't see the point.
Time for me is at least as valuable as a &#163; or twos worth of grain.
In fact if you follow recipes getting 95% can be a pain if you have to adjust everything.

I don't see a problem if you can get 70 to 80%
 

1234Alchemy

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Er, I'm gonna be getting back ON topic here. I've brewed 3 all grains now, and I've had pretty bad efficiency myself. I've found [the first page of] this thread very useful. I was only about 60%, and I was getting frustrated. Now I've come up with several tips. One question I have for people is regarding water. I have well water that runs through a water softener--not really ideal for brewing. Would any type of bottled water work better/well for me?

Another possible solution someone suggested to me is preheating my MLT. I use a 10 gal cooler with SS braid as well, and previously I had been neglecting to preheat it. So I had lost quite a bit of temp during my mash.

I'm hoping preheating and maybe using some other water will have a positive effect on my efficiency. I think I'll also add the grain to the water this time too, since that seems to be a common theme. Thanks for the help.

You may now continue bickering! :tank:
 
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OldFarmer said:
hey BierMuncher,
What i expected , Since most folks are batch spargers, was some replys to the forum extolling the virtues of procedure, not a personal attack calling my equiptment and procedure "atypical" and use caution etc. I became quite angry at such a pompous, condecending, ignorant attitude. I appoligize to the forum for my conduct, but the matter could not be resolved by PM. Over and out.
You must admit you made the same sort of "pompous" comment about steel braids which lots of folks use as their equipment.

OldFarmer said:
1st use a false bottom. Braid won't get it.
 

woosterhoot

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How many people out there don't really check? Maybe im a total dope, but I checked my first 2 or 3 batches and saw that I was getting 65 to 70 % efficiency and stopped checking gravity readings. I just plan my grain bill for 70 %. I can't taste the difference between 65% and 70% anyway.:mug:
 

wizardofza

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Beerrific said:
Could it be a pH problem?

Also, you said you checked the gravity after collecting the runnings, before the boil? How did you temp correct? Some sources out there to make these corrections are not done well for high temps (they don't take in the nonlinearity correctly). I always base my efficiency calculation on my OG after chilling which is closer to 60 and I think I get better results
Can you correct at that time? What if your OG is low by say 10 points? It's a bit late to add anything to get you to where you want to be though, right?
 

Willie3

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You can always add more wort to the original. Sort of like blending or making a really BIG beer. As long as the process is clean and well defunctified.

On another note: Shlamile shlamassle hossenfeffer incorporated!

- WW
 
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