What BIAB brewing actually is (Mythbusting for traditionalists)

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I died laughing when I got to the BIAB being too heavy.
 

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I haven’t brewed in a while, I really miss soaking my bag in nice warm water…
(I start low and do a step mash with my lagers this time of year)
:mug:
 
I am a BIABer. I thought about lifting the bag, allowing it to drain. Then I acquired a second Burco. So I run off the liquid and use 4 litre jugs to fill number 2, and then boil. There is always some very fine solids left in the mash vessel - using the lift and drain approach would mean boiling these - would that affect final quality ?
 
I've never BIaB'd in my life, but not through any prejudice. In fact I owe a lot to the method. I grew up with the idea that the wort had to be clear through repeated recirculation through the grain bed until the runnings were bright. Never really managed to achieve that and couldn't be ahhsed anyway. The beer never seemed to suffer and the affirmation from the BIaB brewers took away the worry of whether my beer could be somehow better.
What other myths have been broken?
- the boil should take 90 minutes (to get full bitterness out of the hops)
- mash conversion takes 90 minutes
- the wort going into the fermenter should be crystal clear and any bit of trub will ruin it (in fact the opposite is true- a bit of trub provides nutrients)

and no doubt there are others.
I think the biggest mistake we make, collectively, as home brewers is to try to scale down industrial systems when industrial systems really can't afford the freedom and flexibility that we homebrewers have.
 
Also a lot of those all in one brew systems ( AIO) are really 2 vessel systems as they have a separate sparge water heater.
As an AIO metal bag ( malt pipe ) brewer I can't see myself changing to a grain bag until I try an overnight cold mash for a low alcohol beer. This is a plan on the horizon. Although the mash seems to be done in a plastic bucket and then the wort is transferred to the boil kettle once clear.
 
I wanted to address a few things that have been touched on in plenty of threads in the past. The readers I'm mostly addressing are those who think Brew in a Bag as a process is inferior, makes subpar beer, or is "okay, but really just a stepping stone to REAL brewing". This is probably going to be pretty disjointed, fair warning.

BIAB is an all grain brewing method where the mash is held in a porous bag or basket within boil kettle. Post mash, the spent grain is removed from the boil kettle, leaving only wort behind. The preboil volume of wort is usually achieved by using enough initial water to yield the desired volume. This is known as full volume mashing. In some cases, the mash is performed thicker and a sparging step is added after pulling the bag or basket. The reasons and/or mechanics of sparging are not really the point of this post so I'll skip it. The premise however is that the defining characteristic of BIAB is that the grain is contained in a mesh "vessel" within the boil kettle and the grain is remove from the wort (not vice versa like in a typical mash tun). That's it. No... I'm serious. That is it.

Some people will read that and think, "yeah, I get it, what's the point?". It's painfully obvious that so many people, even long time regulars here at HBT do not get it based on the comments they make in various threads. Here are some random things you'll find.

1. BIAB is not real all grain brewing (as an outright proposition). False. All grain brewing is very simple to understand. You derive most, if not all, of your wort's sugars from cereal grains through the mashing process. BIAB relies on the same mashing and ends up with the same wort. I get why this is perpetuated. Even HBT has BIAB as a separate forum from All Grain Brewing. If anything, BIAB should be a sub forum to All Grain Brewing.

2. I'll just BIAB until I can afford to upgrade to an all grain system (or some other disconnection of terms due to ignorance). False. See above. BIAB is all grain brewing. You probably mean that you have been drooling over pictures of shiny brewing systems that feature multiple tanks and pumps and you have it in your head that a system like that is the end game for "reasons". That's misguided, but fair. How would you account for the hundreds of people who have owned 3 vessel systems and switched to BIAB?

3. BIAB makes cloudy beer. False. BIAB makes cloudier preboil wort. That's it. My BIAB wort going into the fermenter is as clear as any 3 vessel system beers I've ever made.

4. BIAB is less efficient. Sometimes. Woah, we actually hit on an actual piece of controversy. When you run BIAB as a full volume, no sparge process, it does tend to be lower mash/lauter efficiency than an inherently sparged system. BIAB brewers typically report a mash/lauter efficiency between 65-80% with some fringe examples a bit higher. 3 vessel brewers average more than that. The ultimate impact of these efficiency differences will typically amount to 1-2 extra pounds of grain to buy.

5. I like operating a 3 vessel system because it feels more legitimate. Subjective. If your goal is to prepare yourself for brewing at commercial scale, this is probably the most reasonable argument against BIAB brewing. However, a lot of times this type of argument comes up, it's from people who don't aspire to go pro and have never brewed on anything other than a 3 vessel. My opinion is that the most legitimate brewing method is the one that yields the highest quality beer. There are probably plenty of good reasons one may enjoy 3 vessel brewing but just be aware of tunnel vision.

6. Pulling the bag out is difficult and it makes a mess. Poor planning, poor execution. The BIAB process has this known requirement of pulling the spent grain out and you have to take that into account before brew day. The majority of people who try BIAB and then claim it sucks are the same people who try pulling 40 pounds of hot dripping mess out of the kettle by hand, alone. Shame on you, do not pass Go, do not collect $200. Get yourself an overhead with a ratchet strap or locking rope pulley to suspend the bag over the kettle to drain. Long story short, if I get more than a drop of wort on myself or on the floor, that's a lot.

7. Full volume mashing is sloppy, imprecise, has conversion problems, is too thin, [insert some other technical mashing mechanic problem]. What? I've seen all kinds of random statements about how mashes thinner than 2qts per pound will never convert or how the pH will be so screwed up that you'll extract tannins. The tannins argument also comes up regarding the finer crush that BIAB often uses. First, there is most decidedly no issue with conversion with full volume mashes as long as the grist is of typical diastatic power (typical mix of malted base malts with limited adjuncts). The topic of tannin extraction is primarily a topic of mash pH and the water chemistry/grist makeup that gets you there. This topic is in no way tied specifically to the mash vessel. The bottom line is that good brewers know their water and what kind of mash pH to expect on every one of their batches. This goes for all brewing methods. BIAB full volume mashing actually has the most stable mash pH because there is no sparging. Typically tannin extraction occurs when sparging with alkaline water, if the mash pH itself wasn't already out of range.

8. I like the repeatability and temperature stability of more sophisticated mashing systems so BIAB is definitely NOT for me. Misinformed. You thought BIAB was limited to a paint strainer bag dunked in a greasy turkey fryer pot but you're wrong. My BIAB system holds rock solid mash temps for as long as I want. I can step mash to precise steps faster than a 3 vessel HERMS or RIMS.

9. BIAB makes subpar beer. False. Everything being equal of course. Let me be very clear. BIAB is a wort production process just like a fly sparged HERMS regulated mash is a wort production process. If you find some correlation between beers brewed with the BIAB process and a lower quality end beer, that's just bad brewing technique. Sure, that's easy to claim. If BIAB is by definition inferior, there would be no examples of BIAB brewers consistently doing well at competitions, especially competitions entered by both BIAB brewers and traditional 3 vessel brewers. Ok, let's look at that.

Here are the final standings for the 2020 New Jersey Homebrewer of the Year. Brewer's are awarded points for medaling in three qualifying competitions throughout the year. The guy that took first place works at BrewHardware and I built his BIAB system about 2 years ago. The guy in 3rd place is also a friend and I built his BIAB rig about 2 years ago. I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure the 2nd place guy uses a 3 vessel system. Certainly the 4th and 5th place brewers are traditional 3 vessel brewers.

View attachment 707560

Ok... here's the previous year. The first place guy... not sure. 2nd and 3rd place, BIAB brewers. I know because I built their kettles.

View attachment 707561

Ok, the last year I have records for. Not sure the method for 1st and 2nd place but 3rd and 4th definitely BIAB.
View attachment 707562

The point is, this isn't just getting lucky at a comp. This is consistent, high caliber brewing. Can we put this subpar BS argument to bed yet?

Edit to add a little more data here. In case anyone was wondering what styles the winning brewers brew, especially for naysayers that contend some styles can't be brewed via BIAB properly, here are some stats.

Larry B's year:
Gold: American Brown
Silver: Altbier
Gold: NEIPA
Silver: German Pilsner
Silver: Kellerbier
Gold: American Pale Ale
Silver: NEIPA
Gold: American Pale Ale
Gold: Altbier
Silver: Belgian Blonde
Silver: Kellerbier
Bronze: NEIPA

Tom D's year:
Gold and 1st Best of Show for a Gose
Silver: Munich Helles
Bronze: Belgian Trippel
Gold: Double IPA
Silver: German Pilsner
Silver: NEIPA
Gold: NEIPA
Bronze: Rye IPA
Bronze: Baltic Porter
I agree with you TOTALLY. Thank you. I've been all grain brewing over 20 years. I still do traditional brewing, but have recently move to small batch (< 5gallons) BIAB. I find No difference in the final results.

I recirculate the bagged mash with a pump and get equal results as if I were using a mash tun. I'll soon TRY larger batches as time and system evolutions are complete.
 
I have been brewing all grain on a variety of different 3 vessel systems for over 30 years. But I have not done BIAB yet. But I'm getting to old to keep handling a mash run full of spent grain and left over wort. Additionally cleaning the spent grains out of the ports and crevices is getting old and cumbersome.

As a result I'm thinking I need to adapt a method of using a grain bag inside my mash run. But I am uneducated when it comes to using a bag. I understand a hoist is necessary to do the lifting, but can you simply use a mash tun with a bag or is a different vessel required? And is there a specific mesh bag used? I assume a 5 gal bucket size paint strainer should work.
 
I have been brewing all grain on a variety of different 3 vessel systems for over 30 years. But I have not done BIAB yet. But I'm getting to old to keep handling a mash run full of spent grain and left over wort. Additionally cleaning the spent grains out of the ports and crevices is getting old and cumbersome.

As a result I'm thinking I need to adapt a method of using a grain bag inside my mash run. But I am uneducated when it comes to using a bag. I understand a hoist is necessary to do the lifting, but can you simply use a mash tun with a bag or is a different vessel required? And is there a specific mesh bag used? I assume a 5 gal bucket size paint strainer should work.
If you’re using a seperate mash tun then its not really BIAB. There are folks who line their mash tun with a bag for easier clean up, sure. I have one for my cooler.

The idea of BIAB is you don’t need a mash tun. You just put the bag in your brewpot and mash that way. The bag serves as your straining device. You pull the bag when the mash is complete and either rinse it by pouring water over it or dunk sparge it by putting it into another pot or bucket with hot water in it.

The hoists come into play for the guys brewing 15 or 20 gallon batches with 50 pounds of grain in a giant bag inside a giant pot.
 
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I have been brewing all grain on a variety of different 3 vessel systems for over 30 years. But I have not done BIAB yet. But I'm getting to old to keep handling a mash run full of spent grain and left over wort. Additionally cleaning the spent grains out of the ports and crevices is getting old and cumbersome.

As a result I'm thinking I need to adapt a method of using a grain bag inside my mash run. But I am uneducated when it comes to using a bag. I understand a hoist is necessary to do the lifting, but can you simply use a mash tun with a bag or is a different vessel required? And is there a specific mesh bag used? I assume a 5 gal bucket size paint strainer should work.
The bag should be big enough to put your mash vessel inside the bag (maybe a hair smaller if you use a cooler MLT.) You do not want the bag constraining the grain, nor have liquid outside of the bag, other than under a false bottom if you have one.

I use a Wilser bag, and don't know what the mesh or opening size is, but there is a discussion here.

Brew on :mug:
 
The idea of BIAB is you don’t need a mash tun. You just put the bag in your brewpot and mash that way. The bag serves as your straining device. You pull the bag when the mash is complete and either rinse it by pouring water over it or dunk sparge it by putting it into another pot or bucket with hot water in it.

The hoists come into play for the guys brewing 20 gallon batches with 50 pounds of grain.
"Pure" BIAB is no-sparge, full volume mash. No pouring water over the bag for a pseudo fly sparge, or dunking in a bucket for a batch sparge. But, you don't have to do pure BIAB - you can sparge if you want to, and it will increase your lauter efficiency. Also, there is no need to sparge with hot water - room temp water works just as well for extracting more sugar from the grain mass. Only downside to cooler water is a longer time required to heat to boil.

I find a latching pulley, rigged as a moving rather than stationary pulley to get a 2:1 mechanical advantage, very helpful when doing 5 gal batches.

Brew on :mug:
 
"Pure" BIAB is no-sparge, full volume mash. No pouring water over the bag for a pseudo fly sparge, or dunking in a bucket for a batch sparge. But, you don't have to do pure BIAB - you can sparge if you want to, and it will increase your lauter efficiency. Also, there is no need to sparge with hot water - room temp water works just as well for extracting more sugar from the grain mass. Only downside to cooler water is a longer time required to heat to boil.

I find a latching pulley, rigged as a moving rather than stationary pulley to get a 2:1 mechanical advantage, very helpful when doing 5 gal batches.

Brew on :mug:
When I ‘graduated’ into BIAB (before moving into AIO) I used bags made from Swiss Voile and nylon web strapping that my wife sewed for me. Swiss voile is available at JoAnn’s stores in the sewing fabric area. The best parts are its strength, its light weight, the tight weave and its high porosity. The bag drains easily and quickly, is temperature safe up to several hundred degrees Fahrenheit without melting or scorching and cleans easily.

I used a ratcheting hoist (come-along) to lift the bag out of the pot to drain while the wort got heated over a propane burner. I’d still be using it today if I hadn’t gotten the Braumeister.
 
If you’re using a seperate mash tun then its not really BIAB. There are folks who line their mash tun with a bag for easier clean up, sure. I have one for my cooler.
I agree that employing a bag in a dedicated mash tun really is outside the scope of BIAB (Which is mashing in your boil kettle and removing the grain before boiling). I look at a bag in a mash tun as just an alternative grain filter much like false bottoms, manifolds, mesh screens, etc. Using a bag in this way is mechanically similar and may make cleanup easier, but it's a half measure to the charm of single vessel brewing.
You pull the bag when the mash is complete and either rinse it by pouring water over it or dunk sparge it by putting it into another pot or bucket with hot water in it.
Or not rinse it at all. I gladly trade the efficiency loss of no sparge full volume mashing for simplicity, ph stability, labor savings, etc.
The hoists come into play for the guys brewing 15 or 20 gallon batches with 50 pounds of grain in a giant bag inside a giant pot.
I think the hoist makes all batch sizes easier. Perhaps something smaller than 3 gallons would be a wash but letting it hang is so much less likely to make a mess and less chance of hurting my back or burning myself.
 
Even with smaller batches, a hoist and ratchet pulley are nice, so you can let the bag hang and drain, and your hands are free to do other things like get the kettle stoked up to boil, open another beer, etc.

And contrary to what some people say, it's not detrimental to squeeze the bag. Doing so will not leach tannins. Squeeze it like it owes you money.
 
I have been brewing all grain on a variety of different 3 vessel systems for over 30 years. But I have not done BIAB yet. But I'm getting to old to keep handling a mash run full of spent grain and left over wort. Additionally cleaning the spent grains out of the ports and crevices is getting old and cumbersome.

As a result I'm thinking I need to adapt a method of using a grain bag inside my mash run. But I am uneducated when it comes to using a bag. I understand a hoist is necessary to do the lifting, but can you simply use a mash tun with a bag or is a different vessel required? And is there a specific mesh bag used? I assume a 5 gal bucket size paint strainer should work.
A tun won’t allow the bag to drain properly therefore, a hoist is great. I put on in Mr brew area. If you can lift the open bag you can spare and recirculate. I use a boil pot with a basket. I pass a rod through the basket holes and process the grain as I like. I also move the rod close to the rod and gently lift the bag. It squeezes the bag as I don’t get burned. 😆
 

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Thanks everyone for your explanations. I get it now. I have not explored the BIAB nor single vessel brewing. It intrigues me and when I downsize and sell my home I will probably sell my system with it. After that an all in one sounds good. For the immediate future I will stay with my 3V system. However I will look into getting a bag to put in my Chapman Mash tun. Thanks to comments above, I know to size it properly. I will find one that will allow my normal mash processes then make the removal of spent grains much easier.
 
make the removal of spent grains much easier.
Perhaps a bag will help you best with this goal.

What works for me is to scoop the spent grains from my Chapman into a bag (in my case, compostible) that's inside a big plastic bin, clipped to the sides to keep it open. Then I carry the bin-with-bag to the disposal location - in my case, the yard-debris bin picked up weekly my my city - and dump it in.

I'm intrigued by BIAB, but still sticking with my 3 vessel HERMS system.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.

I would. If you have weldless connections and enough thread, you can put a 1/2" npt barbed end on the end of your thermo to cover the pointy part of the probe. I had to do that with one of my older 5 gallon kettles before replacing the kettle. The best option is just plug that port if you can do without a thermometer on your kettle.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.

I always recommend nixing the thermometer or anything that can jab the bag. Spot checking the mash temp with a fast reading handheld digital is great. You can probe around to different spots while an installed thermometer is telling you the temp on one spot.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.
I have a 10 gallon kettle and the temperature probe sits 5 inches above the bottom. Most of my batches are 5 - 5.5 gallon final volume. I make sure the bag is suspended just above the probe and secure it with a bungee cord around the top of the kettle (others use clamps, clips, etc.). No guarantees that it won’t slip or catch accidentally, so I use some caution as I lift the bag at the end of the mash. I’ve never had any problems. I’d miss the temp info if I removed the probe.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.

You can use a long-handled spoon to keep the bag away from the probe when you're lifting it out. I've never had a bag get caught on the probe, but better to be careful.

Another option is to get a false bottom with legs that keep the bag just above the probe.
 
@Closet Fermenter I agree with Bobby M on removing the thermometer completely. I'm not a BIAB brewer however the stem of a thermometer is in the way of other task as well. I too use a quick read dip thermometer and find it much more useful.

I do however have mounted stem thermometers on my HLT and HERMS coil. There they do a good job.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.
Put a shorter probe in, if possible, and be careful when stirring/hoisting. Bobby M's (Brewhardware) BIAB packages are ideal as the thermometer probe is located below the false bottom, separated from the bag.
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.
I found a thermometer with a shorter, fatter stem - swapped out the thermometer and have had no problems with inadvertent bag punctures.
 
@pcdiver Thanks for finding this thread! I had been reading it when it was fresh but, filled with preconcieved notions had already bought most of the components to build a 3V keggle system.....I'm phyically and neurologically disabled and things didn't work out as expected but with time, the argument for BIAB finally sunk in but I couldn't find this thread. (got it bookmarked now!) I'm taking my time on building my next brew-rig which, though I still expect it to be only a prototype, I want to get as many of the details 'right' (at least 'right' for my chosen practices) and though this thread has covered winches, mill-gaps, water-chemistry, false-bottoms and draining techniques, it has not addressed what constitutes the "Ideal Kettle".
@Bobby_M is likely the most experienced with building and using about every concievable type of brewing gear in the world, so I'll start with what I'm looking for: I know I could just buy a Spike, Blichmann or whatever, but they all have details that I'm not entirely comfortable with, namely: cavities in the body. While TC's are great and useful, they can fill with crud and I especially don't want that around my element, which I'd rather keep fully inside the pot anyway so I'm making a hole and mounting it with a Hot Pod enclosure on the outside. I'd rather have minimal protrutions inside the kettle than cavities that a CIP might not get. The only place I want a 1.5"TC port is at the top just under the rim for my steam-condenser which in my current kettle is mounted in a domed lid and it requires annoying support. Temp for the mash will be a handheld probe-thermometer and for the boil; a tee-mounted probe after the drain-valve to monitor while recirculating which will go through a SpinCycle submerge, so; No mounted thermometer. I have a sight-gauge on my keggle, but it turns out that since I measure what I put in to begin with and steam-losses are always the same, I don't actually need another external nuisance to clean as I don't need to look at it anyway.
I'm in no rush and I'd rather get the hardware together for my long-term satisfaction, so any choice or configuration feedback would be appreciated.
:mug:
 
@pcdiver Thanks for finding this thread! I had been reading it when it was fresh but, filled with preconcieved notions had already bought most of the components to build a 3V keggle system.....I'm phyically and neurologically disabled and things didn't work out as expected but with time, the argument for BIAB finally sunk in but I couldn't find this thread. (got it bookmarked now!) I'm taking my time on building my next brew-rig which, though I still expect it to be only a prototype, I want to get as many of the details 'right' (at least 'right' for my chosen practices) and though this thread has covered winches, mill-gaps, water-chemistry, false-bottoms and draining techniques, it has not addressed what constitutes the "Ideal Kettle".
@Bobby_M is likely the most experienced with building and using about every concievable type of brewing gear in the world, so I'll start with what I'm looking for: I know I could just buy a Spike, Blichmann or whatever, but they all have details that I'm not entirely comfortable with, namely: cavities in the body. While TC's are great and useful, they can fill with crud and I especially don't want that around my element, which I'd rather keep fully inside the pot anyway so I'm making a hole and mounting it with a Hot Pod enclosure on the outside. I'd rather have minimal protrutions inside the kettle than cavities that a CIP might not get. The only place I want a 1.5"TC port is at the top just under the rim for my steam-condenser which in my current kettle is mounted in a domed lid and it requires annoying support. Temp for the mash will be a handheld probe-thermometer and for the boil; a tee-mounted probe after the drain-valve to monitor while recirculating which will go through a SpinCycle submerge, so; No mounted thermometer. I have a sight-gauge on my keggle, but it turns out that since I measure what I put in to begin with and steam-losses are always the same, I don't actually need another external nuisance to clean as I don't need to look at it anyway.
I'm in no rush and I'd rather get the hardware together for my long-term satisfaction, so any choice or configuration feedback would be appreciated.
:mug:

Kettle suggestions - 1) having some kind of false bottom is helpful since you want to keep the bag of grain far enough from the heating element so you don't burn the bag or the mash grist.
2) The temperature probe can rip the bag and make a mess as the grains fall out.
3) I recirc the wort during mash and I think it helps with efficiency .
4) having the bag inside a mash tun which fits inside is helpful when lifting out the bag. I lift out the mash tun with the bag in it... You don't want the bag breaking apart with the added weight .
5) temp control is nice too. Easier to do a step mash and stay in control of the mash. So probably electric - if it was me. But propane or natural gas works too.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
 
........[USER=4833]@Bobby_M is likely the most experienced with building and using about every concievable type of brewing gear in the world, so I'll start with what I'm looking for: I know I could just buy a Spike, Blichmann or whatever, but they all have details that I'm not entirely comfortable with, namely: cavities in the body. While TC's are great and useful, they can fill with crud and I especially don't want that around my element, which I'd rather keep fully inside the pot anyway so I'm making a hole and mounting it with a Hot Pod enclosure on the outside. I'd rather have minimal protrutions inside the kettle than cavities that a CIP might not get. The only place I want a 1.5"TC port is at the top just under the rim for my steam-condenser which in my current kettle is mounted in a domed lid and it requires annoying support. Temp for the mash will be a handheld probe-thermometer and for the boil; a tee-mounted probe after the drain-valve to monitor while recirculating which will go through a SpinCycle submerge, so; No mounted thermometer. I have a sight-gauge on my keggle, but it turns out that since I measure what I put in to begin with and steam-losses are always the same, I don't actually need another external nuisance to clean as I don't need to look at it anyway.
I'm in no rush and I'd rather get the hardware together for my long-term satisfaction, so any choice or configuration feedback would be appreciated.
:mug:

The good thing with Bobby is, he can find the best of each of those brands and make a Frankenstein system out of that which is tailored to your needs.

I don't know the size of your batches, but if this is less than 5 gallons, I wouldn't even bother with any ports except the one for a steam slayer. My 5 gallon kettle I use for half batches has no ports at all and it's just a matter of hosing off the kettle in the sink when done. I don't use a hoist in my small batch setup, but they are cheap and in your situation, maybe that would still be a good thing to have. It's definitely worth it for 5+ gallon batches (which I have one for that). I got mine from either Bobby or More Beer. I can't remember.
 
My only concern, @Broken Crow, is whether a TC drain valve or element port would really pose a greater cleaning (CIP!) concern than...whatever else you have in mind. For example, the insides of my Spike kettle at the drain can't really be seen entirely, and then there are the evil NPT threads of doom. Likewise, my old electric keggle, with its less beautiful welds and without a TC element port.

After realizing I wasn't really getting to all the nooks and crannies inside the keggle's threaded element port, I went for a TC element port in my Spike kettle specifically to facilitate cleaning. I remove the element assembly and clean it separately. I can't imagine going back to an element that can't be easily removed.

Reputedly, TC is the gold standard for cleanability. CIP plus a wee bit of supplemental manual work (remove drain valve, wipe interior of TC port) strikes me as worth strong consideration.

Best wishes as you plan your next moves.

.
spike.jpg
keggle.jpg
 
Even with smaller batches, a hoist and ratchet pulley are nice, so you can let the bag hang and drain, and your hands are free to do other things like get the kettle stoked up to boil, open another beer, etc.

And contrary to what some people say, it's not detrimental to squeeze the bag. Doing so will not leach tannins. Squeeze it like it owes you money.
Yeah. Stick it in the cider press! 😂🤑😂
 
Question: do you BIAB guys remove the thermometer from your boil kettle? I have purchased a Wilser bag from BobbyM, but have yet to use it over concern for the thermometer probe puncturing the bag.
I had issues with my thermometer probe so I swapped it out for a different probe that was short and stubby, instead of the longer poker. Works great.
 
I had issues with my thermometer probe so I swapped it out for a different probe that was short and stubby, instead of the longer poker. Works great.
I’m thinking about removing the one on my kettle and using one of those thermometers that come with turkey fryers. They just clip on the lip of the pot and run vertically down the side to the depth you set with the sliding clip. I could just remove it completely before lifting the bag, and as Bobby M. suggested, gives me the option of checking temperature at various points instead of just the one fixed location.
It actually might even be easier to read since I heat my kettle on a low burner and stand over the pot. Now, when chilling, I have to step back and bend down to take a look. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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