I've had various weldless fittings on all of my vessels for over a decade and have brewed with them countless times. Normally they are fine, but sometimes they leak, which has gotten annoying. I use the more premium fittings, keg lube and change the o-ring from time to time. I have also tried putting an o ring on both sides of the kettle wall. I am thinking about putting jb weld or silicone caulk on the outside of the bk and fermenter wall to prevent leakage. Has anyone done this?
Weldless fittings - intermittent leaks - fix?
- Thread starter NoCornOrRice
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Why are you changing o-rings "from time to time" - is that for actual leaks, or something else?
Are the holes over-size for these leaking fittings?
I have kettles loaded with weldless bulkheads - five on my boil kettle, three on my mlt, and six on my hlt. Most of them are @Bobby_M's brewhardware.com excellent bulkheads, the rest are Blichmann original equipment. None of them have ever leaked, which is a testimony to their design, imo, but they do require a properly sized hole (13/16" preferentially).
I would certainly not glue or epoxy a weldless bulkhead. I'd consider replacing a chronic leaker with a different model first...
Cheers!
Are the holes over-size for these leaking fittings?
I have kettles loaded with weldless bulkheads - five on my boil kettle, three on my mlt, and six on my hlt. Most of them are @Bobby_M's brewhardware.com excellent bulkheads, the rest are Blichmann original equipment. None of them have ever leaked, which is a testimony to their design, imo, but they do require a properly sized hole (13/16" preferentially).
I would certainly not glue or epoxy a weldless bulkhead. I'd consider replacing a chronic leaker with a different model first...
Cheers!
I've changed o-rings after a leak emerged sometimes because I figured it was worth a shot. The Blichmann weldless fittings are well designed, in terms of not leaking, I agree. I did find their bottom dump valve on Fermenators to be too narrow and prone to clogging, so I widened the hole and replaced with a 1/2" weldless bulkhead similar to the Brew Hardware ones, but from a Canadian vendor. That one does not leak, thankfully. Most of the holes were made with a punch and a couple with a step bit, all the holes are 13/16". I did have a welder for beer arrangement years ago, but he grossly overstated his welding abilities, unfortunately.
Staticsouls
When will the beer be free?
Disassemble and reassemble while everything is dry. Then water test. If it doesn't leak at that point you should be gtg. Like daytripper I too have all wellness fittings on my cold side and once sealed they have never leaked for me. Hope this helps.
GoeHaarden
The best advice is unsolicited
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2017
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 738
Have you thought about the pull through/solder fittings at brewhardware?
Pull Through Tutorial
I fitted one of my kettles with these and it's super easy if you just follow Bobby's instruction...no leaks!
Pull Through Tutorial
I fitted one of my kettles with these and it's super easy if you just follow Bobby's instruction...no leaks!
Thx. I was looking at those, and if the other suggestions don't resolve the issues, I may end up going that way.
GoeHaarden
The best advice is unsolicited
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2017
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 738
They're are pretty awesome. I had a similar issue with a leaking weldless bulkhead and just switched to these for peace of mind.
Pull thru and silver solder "should" solve your issues...
I did my 1/2 fitting for the thermometer.
But for some reason the 1" fitting for my electric element I could never get to solder properly. Cleaned it well, lots of flux, etc...3 attempts to silver solder it failed. Solder seemed to just bead up every time. Fitting held strong but kept having a minute seep. In the end I just JB welded the outside and called it a day.
I did my 1/2 fitting for the thermometer.
But for some reason the 1" fitting for my electric element I could never get to solder properly. Cleaned it well, lots of flux, etc...3 attempts to silver solder it failed. Solder seemed to just bead up every time. Fitting held strong but kept having a minute seep. In the end I just JB welded the outside and called it a day.
You know FYI, but for me FMI (MY) to silver solder don't you need a hotter torch or a propane Mape gas to silver solder ??
The typical DIY propane cylinder and torch set is sufficient.
It's really all about cleaning, fitment, and proper flux...with maybe a touch of technique (or at least awareness of what's going on in real time)...
Cheers!
It's really all about cleaning, fitment, and proper flux...with maybe a touch of technique (or at least awareness of what's going on in real time)...
Cheers!
GoeHaarden
The best advice is unsolicited
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2017
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 738
Yup. Those cheap little propane tanks from the hardware store is all you need.
I used a long pipe clamp attached to a work bench that had about a 3 ft overhang and suspended the kettle from the inside. Then just heated the outside of the kettle from below. Much like Bobby does in his video.
Deburred with sandpaper and step bit. Then cleaned kettle with BKF, then cleaned the kettle hole and pull through with denatured alcohol. Solid joints on all in them...
I did the same. The 1/2" fitting went perfect. the 1" one I just could never get right...IDK...if the JB weld ever gives out I'll try the solder again.
frustrating it is...
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2012
- Messages
- 3,352
- Reaction score
- 4,206
- Location
- Either in the brewery or on the road
Absolutely go for Bobby M's weldless bulkheads. I recently replaced a ball valve on an 11L boil kettle that had always leaked no matter what I did. The small diameter of the pot made it nearly impossible to get a flush fit even with double gasketing. Replaced it with one of Bobby's weldless ball valves and it is completely leak free. Also got two hole plugs, one 1/2" and one 7/8", neither of which lets a single drop get through. They really work.
Similar threads
