Welding a brew stand

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

day_trippr

Structural Duct Tape Sales Engineer
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
38,896
Reaction score
22,112
Location
Stow, MA
Excellent - I think you'll find you definitely need that gap for those bg14s to work properly. There was a commercially available screen that was somewhat similar that took both ends on one side of the circle straight back leaving roughly 1/3" of the total screen circumference open at that level. Might want to emulate that )

Cheers!
 

day_trippr

Structural Duct Tape Sales Engineer
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
38,896
Reaction score
22,112
Location
Stow, MA
Yeah, that's what I was referring to. The two flappy upper sections can be pointed in parallel towards the back providing an exhaust path.

Like this, as shown on the BH site
HS12-angle3.jpg


Cheers!
 

Ironedge

Active Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2015
Messages
40
Reaction score
7
Thank you for the kind words, they're appreciated. I actually have a ton of pics, from the first chunks of scrap I started learning on through the last artful touch with the grinder ;) If there's a particular detail you're interested in I can likely find a close-up.

The "box" at the left-front corner is a Dudadiesel 30 plate 12" plate chiller, mounted on a swinging plate that can be latched tucked in away from shins (or for laying on its side in the back of my Durango) or deployed out for chilling to the fermentors...

View attachment 614489


View attachment 614490

Cheers!
What did you use to make the mounting points for the Chiller plate? I have an 18" duda and was looking to mount it the same way.

cheers
 

day_trippr

Structural Duct Tape Sales Engineer
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
38,896
Reaction score
22,112
Location
Stow, MA
What did you use to make the mounting points for the Chiller plate? I have an 18" duda and was looking to mount it the same way.

cheers
I used pieces of 2" wide x 3/16" thick bar, steel tubing with a 1/4" ID, and 1/4" steel rod, to form the hinges, and 1/8" steel sheet for the swinging panel that the chiller bolts to.

The latches use the same materials, plus some ss spring stock...

Cheers!
 

Ironedge

Active Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2015
Messages
40
Reaction score
7
I used pieces of 2" wide x 3/16" thick bar, steel tubing with a 1/4" ID, and 1/4" steel rod, to form the hinges, and 1/8" steel sheet for the swinging panel that the chiller bolts to.

The latches use the same materials, plus some ss spring stock...

Cheers!
Thanks for the info. That addition was a first for me.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • Brew Stand.JPG
    Brew Stand.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 77

KeggleBrewer

Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2017
Messages
21
Reaction score
8
Location
Pittsburgh
.030/.035/.040 flux core would be fine. I used .035 solid with shielding gas to fabricate my stand.

I had never used any welder before, but between attending the YouTube School Of Welding and practicing on scraps I had become a world class grinder and was good to go :D

Cheers!
Grinding is the first thing you learn in welding 101
 

rubiconbrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
46
Reaction score
2
Location
Solon
Finally made a little more progress. Shelf and bottoms are basically done. Got the mounting brackets for the blichmann burners welded on. Still need to find a good place to weld on pump bracket and weld on a hinged step.

upload_2019-5-6_14-45-25.jpeg
 

rubiconbrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
46
Reaction score
2
Location
Solon
Almost done! Just need to trim the legs to the step down a bit.

I don't have much experience with pumps. Would it work ok if I mounted my pump how it is now or is that not low enough? Was even thinking of mounting it with it mounted upside down on the bottom side of the shelf. Any tips would be appreciated!


upload_2019-6-3_9-38-50.jpeg


upload_2019-6-3_9-39-9.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • upload_2019-6-3_9-34-31.jpeg
    upload_2019-6-3_9-34-31.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 38
  • upload_2019-6-3_9-35-28.jpeg
    upload_2019-6-3_9-35-28.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 40

day_trippr

Structural Duct Tape Sales Engineer
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
38,896
Reaction score
22,112
Location
Stow, MA
Your pump head orientation in the 2nd and third pics is 180° from optimal...

Cheers!
 

rubiconbrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
46
Reaction score
2
Location
Solon
Your pump head orientation in the 2nd and third pics is 180° from optimal...

Cheers!

Yeah forgot that I took pictures before and after I switched the output to facing up. Other than the location of the output should it work good from this location? I didn't know if the pump would work better down lower or if it made a difference as long as you were below the lowest valve.
 

day_trippr

Structural Duct Tape Sales Engineer
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
38,896
Reaction score
22,112
Location
Stow, MA
As long as there's a gravity drop to the pump inputs (ie: they're somewhere below your kettle output valves) they'll work fine. I don't think there's a need to maximize the drop. The centers of my pump heads are 18" below the kettle valves and I've never had any problem priming/maintaining prime...

Cheers!
 

rubiconbrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
46
Reaction score
2
Location
Solon
Perfect thanks! Okay. I should be fine then, i'm about 14" from center of pump head to bottom of lowest valve. Yep just looked at the pictures from my first and only use of the pump and now I see why I had a heck of a time....inlet was facing up...
 
Top