Water Profiles

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ChargersSB

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Okay, so I have been trying to read up on water profiles and such, but for some reason it just isn't clicking. I will be doing my first all grain batch pretty soon and have ready that water can influence the mash. I am going to be doing a honey blonde ale with roughly these ingredients, probably mash at 153, batch sparge:
-6 lbs 2-row (or maris otter)
-1 lbs vienna
-4 oz crystal 15L
.25 oz magnum 60 mins
.5 oz cascade 15 mins
.5 oz amarillo flameout (or 5 mins)

I attempted to read my cities water report and this is what has (these are average surface water numbers as PPM).
-Calcium: 79
-Magnesium: 42
-Bicarbonate: 190
-Sulfate: 280 (possibly 500 as secondary maximum contaminant level)
-Sodium: 47
-Chloride: 21 (possibly 500 as secondary maximum contaminant level)
-Alkalinity: 157

Does any of these sound right? How worried do I need to be about this profile and possibly having to adjust things...not sure how either, but I can do more research if need be. What would be a good water profile to try and imitate? Do any of you just have a standard water profile you use for everything?
 
That amount of bicarbonate isn't wanted unless you're doing a darker beer. Have you read the primer in the science forum?
 
Sulfate and Magnesium are higher than desirable for most brews excepting well-hopped ales. Dilution with RO or distilled water may be necessary to brew more delicate styles.
 
I read the primer and am still confused. I'll get it eventually though. I plugged in the numbers on this calculator: http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/

Pre-boil water volume: 6 gallons
Percent dilution: 50 (I will try to use 3 gallons of distilled water)
It now has these numbers with the dilution:
Ca+2: 40
Mg+2: 21
SO4-2: 140
Na+: 24
Cl-: 11
HCO3-: 95
Alkalinity: 78

However, my estimated pH didn't really drop all that much. Before the adjustments it showed an estimated pH of 5.93 and a residual alkalinity of 75.02. With the 50% dilution it shows a pH of 5.86 and a residual alkalinity of 37.16. I read ideally the pH should be between 5.1 and 5.5
 
Hi Chargers,
Yep, by diluting 1:1 with distilled water, you cut the mineral levels in half. You have moderately hard water so you are stuck with a profile that favors darker hoppier beers - not necessarily a bad thing. Why do you think Ireland is famous for dark beers? -> they have hard water.

pH factors more into extraction efficiency (how much sugar you get) than flavor. If this is your first all grain batch, you might get a lower efficiency until you are more experienced. You'll learn how to dial it in. As far as your water's pH being off by ~0.3, if you have to add an extra few ounces of base grain to meet your OG, big deal.
 
Thanks for the info. Is there a way I can adjust the water profile other than just diluting with distilled water? This will be my first all grain batch. Do you think it would be necessary to increase my base grains in assuming I will have a lower efficiency until I get my system figured out? I will be using 7 lbs of 2-row or maris otter, 1 lbs vienna, 4 oz crystal 15L and 1 lbs honey.
 
The only way to get lower mineral levels is to dilute.

To be safe, I'd add an extra pound or two of 2-row. Worst case scenario, your beer is a little higher in alcohol content.
 
The only sane way is dilution, technically you can precipitate carbonate out but it's a giant headache. A good source for ~90% mineral free water is just buying reverse osmosis filtered, many grocery stores have machines that sell it at roughly .30 cents a gallon.
 
So, this now brings up another question. If I use all RO water, is it recommended or do I need to then add brewing salts or anything else to bring the levels up to acceptable levels since this will be about 90% mineral free as you said?

Thanks.
 
90% mineral free leaves a lot of questions, like what were the starting values, and how consistent is the process? If it was RO water from your home town, then use a 90% dilution factor in the calculator. I'd do some fact checking on the water to be sure. You could just assume it has zero mineral content and go from there, under padding your target by 10%.

In any case, the basic answer is yes, you need to add back brewing salts. Your local home brew store will have them. Baking soda, Gypsum, and Calcium Chloride are what I use each batch.

I'm impressed with your diligence on this subject! Happy brewing!
 
Thanks. I think with this next batch I will use 3 gallons of distilled water and then just tap water for the rest and see how that goes. I have only three extract batches (steeping specialty grains) under my belt, but each one has this off flavor. It is subtle and nothing bad, but something just tasted off. I wonder if it was because I was using all tap water.
 
Could be the water. Might also what is called 'extract twang', an off flavor that can come from using malt extract. Make sure you are getting the freshest possible malt extract and that can help.
 
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