Ward Labs Water Testing

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
HB_ATL73

HB_ATL73

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
313
Reaction score
214
Location
Atlanta, GA
I am going to buy a Ward Labs Water test kit and my question is for all you water experts out there. They have options for additional water analysis for Aluminum, Copper, Fluoride, Manganese, Silica, and Zinc for an additional cost. Are any of the additional analyses necessary or highly recommended to have done?
 
HB_ATL73 said:
I am going to buy a Ward Labs Water test kit and my question is for all you water experts out there. They have options for additional water analysis for Aluminum, Copper, Fluoride, Manganese, Silica, and Zinc for an additional cost. Are any of the additional analyses necessary or highly recommended to have done?
Click to expand...

I have had Ward Labs test my RO water using their standard water test kit. It provides great information so as you can adjust your water to a particular batch you are brewing.

With that said, after reading various articles and threads about the possible effects of using a copper CFC, with my latest batch last Thursday/Friday morning, I took a sample of the wort after going through the whirlpool CFC and before going into the fermenter. Once fermentation is complete, I plan on taking another sample. I will send both samples to Ward Labs to test for copper. Then, at least I can make a better informed decision on whether to continue using a copper CFC vs a SS CFC.

In your case at this point in time, unless you have an unusual water source, the standard water test kit should be fine.
 
No, I just did the brewing water one . I'm gonna be honest with you though. Your water changes . This is what I've learned after reading around here . I use RO water and build and it's the way to go imo. However it was good to learn my water makes good stouts .
 
Unless you're on a private well or so, most municipal water sources are required to inform consumers with a yearly report on many pollutants. Sadly, they often don't include the beneficial brewing ions we're interested in. But they have the data, you can request them, or talk to someone. Also good to ask is water sources used, fluctuation, and seasonal changes in (mineral) composition.

A Ward water test is only a snapshot, a single sample.
Your water can change anytime. Knowing the (original) water sources can help making informed decisions on its overall stability, fluctuations, and changes.
 
If a private well has passed Board Of Health-level quality/safety testing in recent history there's probably no need to go beyond the Brewer's Test series. We had our well drilled (120' !) a few years ago and had a long and expensive set of tests done to get BOH approval and that included a metric crapton of tests that don't concern brewing, so I just went with the Brewer's set...

Cheers!
 
CodeSection said:
I have had Ward Labs test my RO water using their standard water test kit. It provides great information so as you can adjust your water to a particular batch you are brewing.

With that said, after reading various articles and threads about the possible effects of using a copper CFC, with my latest batch last Thursday/Friday morning, I took a sample of the wort after going through the whirlpool CFC and before going into the fermenter. Once fermentation is complete, I plan on taking another sample. I will send both samples to Ward Labs to test for copper. Then, at least I can make a better informed decision on whether to continue using a copper CFC vs a SS CFC.

In your case at this point in time, unless you have an unusual water source, the standard water test kit should be fine.
Click to expand...
I would love to hear these results. I would imagine that plate chillers would have a similar affect!?! Do post your findings please.
 
It’s actually an amazing idea. How much do all our processes introduce beer contaminants. Soluble metals, soap or sanitizer residues, residues from rubber gaskets, tubing, plastic pump parts, etc...
Not to go too far down the OCD rabbit hole, but this is how discoveries are made. Interesting...
 
Assuming a copper CFC emits some amount of copper ions, plate chillers would likely have a comparatively minor level of copper shedding as the vast bulk of the wort contact surfaces are stainless steel and the copper content is tightly concentrated at the brazed plate ends...

Cheers!
 
Thanks all. I figured I would get a water test done but with a potential for the water values to change so often I guess its not really worth the money. I have used RO water in the past it just adds another cost to the mix- but hey homebrewing doesn't save us money. How are most people getting their RO water supply? single gallons from grocery store or refillable 5gal?
 
HB_ATL73 said:
Thanks all. I figured I would get a water test done but with a potential for the water values to change so often I guess its not really worth the money. I have used RO water in the past it just adds another cost to the mix- but hey homebrewing doesn't save us money. How are most people getting their RO water supply? single gallons from grocery store or refillable 5gal?
Click to expand...
You really should call your water company first, maybe your water is very fine as is, year-round.

Filled into your own containers from RO machines at Walmart and such are $0.37 a gallon in my area. You may be able to find a better price.
If you go that route, it's recommended to check the service log on the machine, or better yet, buy a TDS meter ($10-20) to check the water yourself. A TDS of 10 ppm is sort of the standard for RO water, but may vary, be higher and still be good. It depends on the source too.

I rarely use them because my tap water is very soft, low minerals and alkalinity, good brewing water. I just use some K-Meta to remove the chlorine.
 
IslandLizard said:
You really should call your water company first, maybe your water is very fine as is, year-round.

Filled into your own containers from RO machines at Walmart and such are $0.37 a gallon in my area. You may be able to find a better price.
If you go that route, it's recommended to check the service log on the machine, or better yet, buy a TDS meter ($10-20) to check the water yourself. A TDS of 10 ppm is sort of the standard for RO water, but may vary, be higher and still be good. It depends on the source too.

I rarely use them because my tap water is very soft, low minerals and alkalinity, good brewing water. I just use some K-Meta to remove the chlorine.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the feedback. I will look into contacting the water company about this. I suppose if the water source, fluctuation, etc is changing frequently I may need to look into RO at Walmart
 
HB_ATL73 said:
Thank you for the feedback. I will look into contacting the water company about this. I suppose if the water source, fluctuation, etc is changing frequently I may need to look into RO at Walmart
Click to expand...
Depending on how much you brew, you can get your own small RO system, they're not that expensive (anymore). As long as you can use generic replacement carts, proprietary ones tend to break the bank.
Buckeye Hydro sells them, he's very knowledgeable, and is one of our sponsors.
 
@HB_ATL73, if you determine your water is good as is, great. When it comes to RO water (which is what I use), there are other factors you might want to consider before buying it at a store.

For me, I wanted to avoid hauling 16-18 gallons (for a 10 gallon batch) from the store to the house, down the stairs, to my brew area. In addition, the "cheaper" RO water at the store doesn't factor the gas, wear and tear on my vehicle along with my time to acquire that water.

So, in the end, it was way more convenient and a cost saver (financially as well as time) to have another RO unit installed in my house in my brew area. You may find it cheaper to install a RO unit in your home too...
 
A small amount of zinc is beneficial to yeast, so I would add zinc to a Ward Labs test.
 
Silver_Is_Money said:
A small amount of zinc is beneficial to yeast, so I would add zinc to a Ward Labs test.
Click to expand...
Virtually all the zinc that goes in up front gets left behind in the spent grain (mainly) and break (what's left) so it's kind of irrelevant. Yeast absolutely needs 0.010-0.030 ppm zinc (strain dependent, less for lager more for ale) in the pitching wort, but that can only effectively be supplied in bioavailable form by nutrients like Servomyces or Wyeast nutrient. If ward labs will charge extra for measuring zinc, I'd save the money and put it toward a vial of Wyeast nutrient!
 
CodeSection said:
You may find it cheaper to install a RO unit in your home too...
Click to expand...

I will look into this thank you. That is partly why I stopped using RO water I was tired of lugging around all of the gallons of heavy water

Buckeye Hydro Value and Premium systems seems pretty reasonable at 94-120$
Thanks IslandLizard
 
Robert65 said:
Virtually all the zinc that goes in up front gets left behind in the spent grain (mainly) and break (what's left) so it's kind of irrelevant. Yeast absolutely needs 0.010-0.030 ppm zinc (strain dependent, less for lager more for ale) in the pitching wort, but that can only effectively be supplied in bioavailable form by nutrients like Servomyces or Wyeast nutrient. If ward labs will charge extra for measuring zinc, I'd save the money and put it toward a vial of Wyeast nutrient!
Click to expand...

I add 3 or 4 drops of this zinc to my fermenter just before the yeast addition (for about 6.5 gallons in the fermenter).

https://www.amazon.com/Good-State-Liquid-Ionic-Concentrate/dp/B00D0VI0A8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX3Q9V...4L&pd_rd_r=KDQ417GZ55EK5BKADBDK&pd_rd_w=Z51Vd
 
I've used zinc sulfate alone at pitching to provide the requisite ppm of elemental zinc, and observed clear fermentation abnormalities as compared with using one of the prepared nutrients containing zinc. I recently read a paper (maybe in the MBAA TQ?) that gave me an idea why; yeast doesn't utilize the zinc in isolation as readily as in a synergistic combination with additional FAN and other trace elements. Apparently the labs formulating these yeast nutrients have some idea of what they're doing.
 
IslandLizard said:
In case you need or want a water test, don't buy the stupid "kit." Just order the test online and send them a pint (I think that's what they want) of your water, in a clean water bottle.
Click to expand...

Good point. All you need to do is download their test sheet, fill it out and send it in with 500ml of the sample. They email you back the results and the bill.
 
Robert65 said:
I've used zinc sulfate alone at pitching to provide the requisite ppm of elemental zinc, and observed clear fermentation abnormalities as compared with using one of the prepared nutrients containing zinc. I recently read a paper (maybe in the MBAA TQ?) that gave me an idea why; yeast doesn't utilize the zinc in isolation as readily as in a synergistic combination with additional FAN and other trace elements. Apparently the labs formulating these yeast nutrients have some idea of what they're doing.
Click to expand...

I use the weak zinc solutions I listed above in conjunction with Fermaid K yeast nutrient (which does not contain any zinc to my knowledge), and it seems to work well when used in conjunction with that nutrient base.
 
Silver_Is_Money said:
I use the weak zinc solutions I listed above in conjunction with Fermaid K yeast nutrient (which does not contain any zinc to my knowledge), and it seems to work well when used in conjunction with that nutrient base.
Click to expand...
Ah yes, the Fermaid supplies the FAN but lacks zinc, so you have a complete nutrient in homebrewed form!
 
Bilsch said:
Might have to try this fermaid you speak of.
Click to expand...
I've ordered some Fermaid O. This is a yeast autolyte, as discussed in the paper I mentioned (it was in Brewing Science or something, not MBAA FWIW.) Fermaid K is inorganic DAP. That's not getting anywhere near my beer. [emoji6]
 
Robert65 said:
I've ordered some Fermaid O. This is a yeast autolyte, as discussed in the paper I mentioned (it was in Brewing Science or something, not MBAA FWIW.) Fermaid K is inorganic DAP. That's not getting anywhere near my beer. [emoji6]
Click to expand...

Lallemand's brewing yeast division doesn't seem to have any issues with using Fermaid K as a beer wort nutrient. That said, you can never go wrong in choosing an organic alternative.

https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/product-details/fermaid-k/

Lallemand states this:
Fermaid K is a completely natural blend of inactive yeast, minerals
and vitamins, produced in Canada by Lallemand to the highest levels
of hygiene and quality assurance.
Click to expand...
 
Robert65 said:
I've ordered some Fermaid O. This is a yeast autolyte, as discussed in the paper I mentioned (it was in Brewing Science or something, not MBAA FWIW.) Fermaid K is inorganic DAP. That's not getting anywhere near my beer. [emoji6]
Click to expand...
Although there may well be a perfectly balanced mixture of (inorganic) trace elements in Fermaid O, or in any other yeast nutrient, would simply boiling some old yeast create a useful alternative to Fermaid O? Then add some Zinc Sulfate to that for completeness?

What's the problem with using DAP?
How about Urea?
 
IslandLizard said:
Although there may well be a perfectly balanced mixture of (inorganic) trace elements in Fermaid O, or in any other yeast nutrient, would simply boiling some old yeast create a useful alternative to Fermaid O? Then add some Zinc Sulfate to that for completeness?

What's the problem with using DAP?
How about Urea?
Click to expand...
My objection to inorganic sources is largely philosophical.

There was, IIRC, some discussion of someone's trials using boiled, spent yeast sometime ago on the LOB forum. If I get a chance I'll see if I can dig that up get the tl;dr on it for you. It certainly seems like a legitimate (and cheap, on hand) option, intuitively at least.
 
Robert65 said:
My objection to inorganic sources is largely philosophical.

There was, IIRC, some discussion of someone's trials using boiled, spent yeast sometime ago on the LOB forum. If I get a chance I'll see if I can dig that up get the tl;dr on it for you. It certainly seems like a legitimate (and cheap, on hand) option, intuitively at least.
Click to expand...
A very valid reason, sure!

Thank you in advance for digging up something on that topic! Maybe you can post it in the Yeast forum in its own thread, so we can find it easier at a later date?

I always pitch from yeast starters, at least 2nd generation, and where not made from fresh packs, often made from higher gen. ranched slurries, never rinsed. There must always be a decent (and ever increasing) percentage of dead yeast in those slurries, relying on them to provide the basic nutrients. I rarely encounter visible or tasteable fermentation problems. I also oxygenate starters and batches well.
 
Bilsch said:
Good point. All you need to do is download their test sheet, fill it out and send it in with 500ml of the sample. They email you back the results and the bill.
Click to expand...

And @HB_ATL73 , it has been recommended to not run water through the typical kitchen faucet aerator as that will alter it slightly as it mixes in some air

Silver_Is_Money said:
And the combination of the two seems less expensive than yeast nutrients which contain zinc.
Click to expand...

Do I smell a new thread about homemade yeast nutrient like the homemade PBW thread?
 

Similar threads

Rahahb
Received my water report from Ward Labs.
Replies
14
Views
1K
Rahahb
Rahahb
C
Artesian well suitability
Replies
3
Views
589
mabrungard
mabrungard
D
My Ward Lab results
Replies
10
Views
2K
mabrungard
mabrungard
B
Interpreting Ward Labs Water Test Results
Replies
5
Views
1K
DBhomebrew
DBhomebrew
N
Ward Labs test results
Replies
5
Views
2K
nickbarley
N
SSBrew 300

Latest posts

Back
Top