Wanting to upgrade to an Electric BIAB Setup.

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Jack5327

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Hi all, new member, long time brewer here.

I got into brewing a while ago when I spent a few years in the US. I have since moved back to Indonesia (from Australia originally), did a stovetop brew last night, and remembered how much a PITA it was to control Mash Temps, getting 6 gal of sweet wort to a boil, etc.

I am looking at upgrading to an all electric, single vessel, BIAB Setup. Unfortunately, being in a country like Indonesia, I no longer have access to the turnkey systems that are offered by Clawhammer Supply, Grandfather etc, and while importing would be an option, it would be incredibly expensive with the shipping, along with the 'Tax' (AKA, Pocket Money), the local customs agents will put on it upon arrival here.

Also, a lot of the components I've seen for these DIY systems, seem very easy to obtain on the US, and most western countries, while quite the challenge to track down here (eg, an Auber PID). I have seen the amazing work here by Doug, however I always seem to come across a component that I can not find (or substitute with). Anyone done something like this over this side of the world?

Thanks all! Happy brewing!
 

doug293cz

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Wish I could help you, but I have no idea what types of components you have available. The basic components needed are a PID switches, contactors, fuses or circuit breakers, an SSR + heatsink, AC LED indicator lights, wire, plugs and receptacles. Can you get these components where you are?

Brew on :mug:
 
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Jack5327

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Gday Doug, thanks for the reply!

Yes I can get those components, my knowledge for electrical systems is somewhat limited, so I didn't know if they had to be of a specific brand.

Also, with the plugs, I don't know whether or not they need to be different from our regular 230V plugs. I notice over in the US, the dryer plugs are different, with an extra prong. Our dryer plugs are the same as the others (just 2 round prongs).

Thanks again for the reply!
 
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Jack5327

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Also, I thought I might add, all I'm looking for would be a temp/power control (for Mash + boil), and recirc pump on/off control. I can do the pump control manually if it's going to be too difficult to incorporate into the one unit!
 

doug293cz

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Gday Doug, thanks for the reply!

Yes I can get those components, my knowledge for electrical systems is somewhat limited, so I didn't know if they had to be of a specific brand.

Also, with the plugs, I don't know whether or not they need to be different from our regular 230V plugs. I notice over in the US, the dryer plugs are different, with an extra prong. Our dryer plugs are the same as the others (just 2 round prongs).

Thanks again for the reply!
No, specific brands are not required. Components just need to be rated for the voltages and currents that they will be working with.

Plugs/receptacles will be the standard ones for your country. The only exception might be for the heating element, if you buy one with an integrated plug. So the first thing I would need to know is what heating element you propose to use, or a list of what is available to you.

You should also choose which PID you plan to use. If you can get a MyPIN TD4 SNR, or MyPIN TD4 SRR, those are known to work well for electric brewing. The MyPIN TA4 is not suitable. If you can't get a TD4, then any other PID with an SSR control output and manual mode should work. A PID which does allow you to switch from PID mode to manual mode is not suitable for brewing (that's why the TA4 is no good.) PID mode is used for heating strike water and mashing, but manual mode is required for boiling power control.

Brew on :mug:
 

doug293cz

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Also, I thought I might add, all I'm looking for would be a temp/power control (for Mash + boil), and recirc pump on/off control. I can do the pump control manually if it's going to be too difficult to incorporate into the one unit!
This is a typical BIAB controller set up. It's easy to include pump control in the design.

Brew on :mug:
 
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Jack5327

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How about a Rex C100? It seems relatively available here, and there are people selling them with SSR's, so I assume it has SSR control output.
 

doug293cz

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How about a Rex C100? It seems relatively available here, and there are people selling them with SSR's, so I assume it has SSR control output.
Not a fan of the Rex C100, and not sure if it has a manual mode. I'll see if I can find out.

Brew on :mug:
 

doug293cz

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A quick look at the Rex C100 manual does not show a manual power setting mode. This is not suitable for boil control.

Brew on :mug:
 
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Jack5327

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I did find the Mypin TD4 SNR, but it is very pricey here haha. I'll do it if I need to, but would rather look for other options.
 
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Jack5327

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In terms of wiring, would it be the same as the diagrams floating around which you created?
 

doug293cz

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In terms of wiring, would it be the same as the diagrams floating around which you created?
Wiring would be very similar, except different models of PIDs have different terminal assignments. They have all the same connections, but in different places. The other thing that can be different is the type of temperature sensor. Many PIDs can take multiple types of sensors, but a few cannot.

Brew on :mug:
 
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Jack5327

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Gotcha, thanks for the help! Good to see another pilot in here!
 
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Jack5327

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Was flying the CRJ 2/7/900 and E175 over in the US. Now back here in Indonesia I was on the Challenger 650, but going to the Hawker next month.
 

RufusBrewer

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For electric BIAB, you might be better off looking at propane/gas systems. Lots of brewers go in that direction. Learn the tricks, trchniques and process. Then substitute heat source, electric for gas.

Granted the PID, temp probe, pump, maintain mash temp stuff is attractive and fun. But you do not need it. A heat source and a well insulated mash tun/boil kettle will get you making beer.

A heating element, something with a knob to control the heating element and a way to to insulate the kettle (blankets, sleeping bag, etc) when you are using it as a mash tun is the minimum
 
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