Want To Try BIAB - Do I Have The Procedure Correct?

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jauntyjoe

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Hi All!
As the title states, I am wondering if I understand BIAB correctly, so I will list out the steps as I understand them, let me know if I'm correct, missing something, or other :) Thanks everyone!

1.) Heat up ~1.25qts / lb of grain to a temp that, once grains are added, hits 152-155
2.) Turn off burner (I have a small electric range, I live in an apartment) and wrap kettle in an insulated coat, and put the lid on. Let sit for 60 minutes.
3.) Heat up ~ .83qts /lb of grain to 170 degrees.
4.) After the hour is up, remove lid and coat, start burner. Pull grain bag out, and "sparge" (rinse) with the 170 degree water, into the brew kettle. Try to get as much sugary goodness out of the grains.
5.) Boil wort, proceed with hop schedule / late addition of a few pounds of LME like a regular extract brew.
 
Union: Thanks so much! You always give great help!

Jeep: I'm either doing a partial boil larger batch or full boil smaller (probably the latter)
 
Step 3... Is that the correct amount of sparge water?
 
Dont forget the most important step... getting the grains into the mash! :p
Also, sparge water can be 170*, as tannin extraction becomes more of a concern with ph (not exactly sure what ph, though. Maybe some else can some along and school me? :drunk: ).
 
Dont forget the most important step... getting the grains into the mash! :p
Also, sparge water can be 170*, as tannin extraction becomes more of a concern with ph (not exactly sure what ph, though. Maybe some else can some along and school me? :drunk: ).

To extract significant amount of tannins requires a pH over 6 and temperature over 170. Since most brewers don't keep a pH meter handy, the temperature restriction is a safe bet as every brewer has a thermometer.

One technique used in brewing is decoction where part of the mash is removed from the tun, heated to boiling, then returned to increase the mash temperature. That doesn't extract tannins because the mash pH is normally 5.2 to 5.7 pH.
 
Hi All!
As the title states, I am wondering if I understand BIAB correctly, so I will list out the steps as I understand them, let me know if I'm correct, missing something, or other :) Thanks everyone!

1.) Heat up ~1.25qts / lb of grain to a temp that, once grains are added, hits 152-155
2.) Turn off burner (I have a small electric range, I live in an apartment) and wrap kettle in an insulated coat, and put the lid on. Let sit for 60 minutes.
3.) Heat up ~ .83qts /lb of grain to 170 degrees.
4.) After the hour is up, remove lid and coat, start burner. Pull grain bag out, and "sparge" (rinse) with the 170 degree water, into the brew kettle. Try to get as much sugary goodness out of the grains.
5.) Boil wort, proceed with hop schedule / late addition of a few pounds of LME like a regular extract brew.

Step 1 is a good start but you can mash much thinner than that if you want. I use about 2.5qts/lb.
Step 2 is good but if you use a very fine crush/grind to your grain you will have conversion much quicker than that hour. It's still a good practice to give it the hour for the first few times.
Step 3? I sparge my BIAB batches with cold water. Much easier to handle a container of cold water and I still get most of the sugars out. To help with that I squeeze that bag of wet grains until it groans. Gimme all your wort!!!
I watch how much wort I have in the pot and only sparge with the amount needed to get my expected pre-boil amount. Wait until you have the bag of grains out to start the burner so you don't burn the grain bag.
Step 5. Since you are using a bag to mash in and if your pot is big enough to contain your brew, you could just use more base malt and skip the malt extract or just reduce the amount. Take a gravity sample before you add the extract to see if you really need it. :rockin::ban:
 
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