Valve diameter's impact on flow

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Jinkies

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I'm finally putting together the setup I want. I'm buying valves, barbs and hose.

Has anyone had any issues with different inner diameters in their wort flow path for recirc and whirlpooling? Will a 1.5" TC valve with a 1.375" ID cause issues? Is a 1" TC valves with 0.875" going to be noticeably better? Am I being stupid asking this question?

I'm already down the tri-clamp fitting rabbit hole. I know it's expensive and people think it's a waste. Ease of use, cleaning ease and flexibility are my drivers. I'm also aware that a hose barb isn't technically sterile or CIP ready.
Basically my outlet from the kettle to the pump will be 3/4" ID and from the pump to the kettle and to fermenter for re-circ will be 1/2". I'll be using 1.5" TC connectors.

My current "flow path" is:
1" OD pickup tube (through a 1.5" TC opening)-> valve (thinking butterfly) -> 1" OD (0.85" ID) TC barb -> 3/4" ID silicone hose -> 1" OD (0.85" ID) TC barb ->
3/4" ID in center inlet, chugger pump -> 1/2" ID outlet (chugger pump) ->
Ball-valve (quick clean) -> 5/8" TC Barb (0.-> 1/2" ID Silicone tubing -> 5/8" TC barb -> valve (again thinking butterfly) -> 1" TC Inlet.

Previous to buying a new kettle this week I've basically been collecting equipment but not brewing. I also have a large zchiller that I'll likely put between the ball valve and the pump. on the outlet of the pump
 

Vale71

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Has anyone had any issues with different inner diameters in their wort flow path for recirc and whirlpooling? Will a 1.5" TC valve with a 1.375" ID cause issues? Is a 1" TC valves with 0.875" going to be noticeably better? Am I being stupid asking this question?
The smaller ID valve will cause a greater flow reduction than the larger ID one. Don't know if that qualifies as better for your application but this is what will happen.
 

Dog House Brew

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I've found that the issues for me were the barbs. They had a huge difference in the ID category. I bought a bunch of my TC fittings from an old member here. The ID of the fittings were very small. That was before Bobby was in business. That is were I would shop IMO. He has had those fittings well thought out and has what you need.
 
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Jinkies

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The smaller ID valve will cause a greater flow reduction than the larger ID one. Don't know if that qualifies as better for your application but this is what will happen.
Yeah. My plan is to keep the tubing be the minimum ID in the system so 1/2" and 3/4" respectively. I was just wondering/worried that a sudden uptick in diameter to 1.375" at the 3 valves from the line diameter of 1/2" and 3/4" might cause some flow issues.
 

Dog House Brew

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I just made sure the TC fittings that I had that were ridiculously small ID, were used in areas where flow wasn't a major issue. I made sure everything going hot side hat the larger 1/2" ID. I really need to buy new one, but sick of sinking more $$ into it. When I built my rig there really weren't options for camlocks yet. I might have gone that route had they been available. I do like the TC fittings even though the rabbit hole is quite deep once you start.
 
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Jinkies

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I just made sure the TC fittings that I had that were ridiculously small ID, were used in areas where flow wasn't a major issue. I made sure everything going hot side hat the larger 1/2" ID. I really need to buy new one, but sick of sinking more $$ into it. When I built my rig there really weren't options for camlocks yet. I might have gone that route had they been available. I do like the TC fittings even though the rabbit hole is quite deep once you start.
A rabbit hole for sure. The process in my my mind only involves one or two hose moves. BIAB mash to whirlpool to fermenter. So I figured since the kettle had TC fittings, I might as well reduce the stacking of TC to camlock or TC to QD.
 
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