Does anyone use standard commercial kegs for kegging? I was looking at a friends Keezer this weekend and was trying to figure out how you would clean them out if you decided to use them (he has commerical brews only). Would you fill it with a cleaning agent, shak eit up a bit, and then push through clean water using a pump (water in through gas port, out through outlet). Is there a name for those types of kegs? I tried searching for a topic that might have covered this but can't find anything.
Using Non-Corny Kegs
- Thread starter Deavis
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Try a search on HBT for more information, but here is some for you to get you started. kegs are easy to use and clean. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=53280
The dip tube assembly comes out easily, just use a small flat headed screw driver and plyers. You don't have to take the whole assembly apart either, mine cleans up great in a day soak in Oxy-Clean or PBW. I made a spray stand out of copper that goes inside the keg to spray rinse it. Makes it easier for me to leave it upside down and works great. There is a ton of info on here and the web though, but feel free to ask away. I love to help anyone going into kegging, it is wonderful.
I think sanke's work great. Remove the dip tube like this:
http://www.physics.arizona.edu/~workman/homebrew/Sanke.html
Clean it like you would a carboy...sanitize w/ starsan...fill w/ beer and install the dip tube. Place in kegerator and purge o2. Carb and enjoy!
Edit: Removing and reinstalling the dip tube can be a bit tricky.
I struggled w/ the installation of the spiral sanke rings. The method that I've finally become skilled at works well for me and I will share. All that is needed is a small pair of channel lock pliers (say 6"0). A regular pair of pliers would probably also work but the offset working angle of the channel locks helps.
All you do is get the spiral ring started by hand which is usually close to 1 revolution. The point at which it becomes difficult is when the spiral ring is doubled in the retaining groove. Position about half of the remaining free end of the ring inside the neck of the keg adjacent to the retaining groove.
Begin forcing the ring in the groove w/ the pliers by squeezing between the snap ring and the outside neck of the keg, well behind the unseated portion . Slowly proceed around the keg neck w/ the pliers and the ring will spiral into the groove. As the second revolution of the ring is seating, position the remaining free end adjacent to the retaining groove.
Only move the pliers 1/8 - 1/4" w/ every compression. If the ring seats in the groove, great, move forward and squeeze again. If the ring is stubborn, back up and make sure the preceeding portion is full seated!
This is difficult to put into words but w/ a little practice it's a 30 second job.
I actually have grown to like the spiral rings in that they are compressing the large o-ring upon installation, and this I believe is why they can be a PIA to install. Not sure a regular snap ring will compress the o-ring seal as well.
Good luck, it's tricky at first but will become easy.
Mike
http://www.physics.arizona.edu/~workman/homebrew/Sanke.html
Clean it like you would a carboy...sanitize w/ starsan...fill w/ beer and install the dip tube. Place in kegerator and purge o2. Carb and enjoy!
Edit: Removing and reinstalling the dip tube can be a bit tricky.
I struggled w/ the installation of the spiral sanke rings. The method that I've finally become skilled at works well for me and I will share. All that is needed is a small pair of channel lock pliers (say 6"0). A regular pair of pliers would probably also work but the offset working angle of the channel locks helps.
All you do is get the spiral ring started by hand which is usually close to 1 revolution. The point at which it becomes difficult is when the spiral ring is doubled in the retaining groove. Position about half of the remaining free end of the ring inside the neck of the keg adjacent to the retaining groove.
Begin forcing the ring in the groove w/ the pliers by squeezing between the snap ring and the outside neck of the keg, well behind the unseated portion . Slowly proceed around the keg neck w/ the pliers and the ring will spiral into the groove. As the second revolution of the ring is seating, position the remaining free end adjacent to the retaining groove.
Only move the pliers 1/8 - 1/4" w/ every compression. If the ring seats in the groove, great, move forward and squeeze again. If the ring is stubborn, back up and make sure the preceeding portion is full seated!
This is difficult to put into words but w/ a little practice it's a 30 second job.
I actually have grown to like the spiral rings in that they are compressing the large o-ring upon installation, and this I believe is why they can be a PIA to install. Not sure a regular snap ring will compress the o-ring seal as well.
Good luck, it's tricky at first but will become easy.
Mike
Word to the wise, install the snap ring where the end is close to the keyway. That way the next time you need to open the keg it is easy to get the screw driver behind and then under the ring. It takes me all of 2 seconds to remove a snap ring on my kegs, but when I first got them it took a minute to get behind the ring.
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Actually, they are pretty easy to use once you get the hang of it.
I know of several that use them. Although, I don't see too many dealers for empty Sanke's so I dunno how they were obtained.
Make sense to me to get set-up for Sanke's. It won;t be anytime soon but, I am sure eventually the availability of parts for cornies will be scarce thanks to bag in a box.
I know of several that use them. Although, I don't see too many dealers for empty Sanke's so I dunno how they were obtained.
Make sense to me to get set-up for Sanke's. It won;t be anytime soon but, I am sure eventually the availability of parts for cornies will be scarce thanks to bag in a box.
springer
Well-Known Member
I use a small pully remover and a bearing race tool to gently put pressure on the sanke tap and the spiral ring or SS snap ring (use both) goes right in no fuss.I like the snap ring as it is the same thickness so it compresses the o-ring just as well and is much easier to install.All you need is a little pressure to compress the o-ring on the tube. Works just like this tool at fermantap...
