TVsn95
Southern brewer
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2016
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 4
I do not, BUT I will assemble some spec's and post it . I am slow so give me some time. It's a cool pieceGot build instructions / parts list?
I do not, BUT I will assemble some spec's and post it . I am slow so give me some time. It's a cool pieceGot build instructions / parts list?
Well, that's sad! Sounds more like a commercial than an objective report..... I've had 4 used kegs from a variety of sources for more than 11 years of home brewing and they still work fine. I believe the secret (if there is one) is basic cleaning and sterilizing plus regular stripping down, replacing O-rings, etc. The whole idea of used kegs is a gift for those of us who are trying to keep down the cost per glass of homebrew. Thank you to the suppliers.
Got build instructions / parts list?
My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?
The O-rings on the posts and dip tubes replace maybe every 2 years. Can't say that I've ever had to replace the lid O-ring, it is a bit overkill for the task, and will likely last many years.
I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.
My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?
Peace,
Reevesie
The question resembles the one about "How long is a piece of string?" In 11 years and with 6 kegs I have changed a keg lid gasket once while O-rings and poppets maybe 3 times. Take care of them and they will serve you well.
When I first buy used kegs, I always refurbish them myself with new seals, but only the poppets if they leak or look/smell bad. After that, I replace as necessary, whether that is a leak or visible damage. I keep spare o-rings in bulk, as well as universal poppets. I actually also keep spare liquid and gas dip tubes as well as posts (both ball lock and pin lock of the different thread pitches), and also lids and pressure relief valves.I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.
My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?
Peace,
Reevesie
Replace when visibly damaged or if they cannot hold pressure. Just the other day I had to replace the gas post o-ring on one of mine because I couldn't get it to stop leaking. New o-ring, no more leak. The old o-ring was maybe a year old and not visibly worn or damaged, sometimes they're just finicky that way. If your ball lock keg is leaking, 98 times out of 100 it's the gas post. Pull off the disconnect, lube up the o-ring, reinstall disconnect, this will usually take care of it. If it doesn't, yank the o-ring and replace it. Always keep spares on hand, they are cheap, buy in bulk from mcmaster carr. Try to leak check weekly, just shutoff the tank valve for 5 minutes and make sure the high pressure gauge stays put.I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.
My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?
Peace,
Reevesie
..........Always keep spares on hand, they are cheap, buy in bulk from mcmaster carr..............
I've got 5: 4 used, 1 new. I wrote empty weights on all of them with a Sharpie, but I got the Keg Level Indicators, so I just use those to tell when I'm getting low in any given keg. I just watch the "In" tube while filling, but I mostly do just shy of 5 gallon batches, so that doesn't matter too much.This can not be overstated. I think I bought my used kegs before I got my starter kit when I got into the hobby. There's a sticky in the kegging section that lists the McMaster part numbers for the Orings. I bought a 100 of the dip tube and post Orings and a 10 pack of the lid Orings. The last three used kegs I recently got from Adventures, I went ahead and added the Oring kit as I was needing a few more lid Orings. The kits had the white Orings and I think they are thicker than the black ones.
I have, currently, 12 used kegs. What I got in a habit of doing is weigh them empty and full. I take some blue painters tape and mark those values on them and even number them (ex: Keg 1, 2, 3, etc..) so it's better to keep track of them whenever an issue arises. I also use shipping tags tied to the lid that tell me what kind of beer is in the keg and I write on the back of the tag a reminder to double check any leak issues if I have any.
I like filling by weight, especially after getting my conical. I just fill the keg until I hot the target weight I wrote on the painters tape. This allow me to get the maximum amount of beer in them.