I had a Roggenbier stick at 1.020 my LHBS said drop in some Beano. I did and there is a 1/4" layer of new dense foam on top now. Will be interesting to see how it turns out. Has anyone ever heard of or done this? If so what were the results?
Common causes of stuck fermentations:A stuck fermentation means that you have fermentable sugar in the beer, but the yeast have just stopped working.
If you have enough unfermentables to give you an SG of 1.025, but all the fermentables have been exhausted, then it's not a stuck ferment. It's just done.
I would definitely try repitching before saying fuhggit and bottling.I've heard the same info about Beano, personally to unstick a stuck fermentation, first I stir the yeast cake off the bottom w/a sanitized spoon if that doean't work in itself, I then allow the temps to rise a bit ~68-70°, if that fails, I use yeast energizer (normally if it gets to this point the yeast energizer does the trick) if yeast energizer fails then I say fuhggit and bottle, probably too many unfermentables for the gravity to drop further.
^^^^This^^^^I didn't use Beano, but I used amylase powder from LHBS, 1tsp in 5 gallons. Worked fine. I left it in the secondary for a LOOOOONNNNNGGG time to make sure it was really done after all signs of fermentation ceased and it hit terminal gravity. Took me from 1.014 to 1.006.
I have only had one true stalled/stuck fermentation where the SG wouldn't drop below 1.025. I guess what I was trying to say is that if the gravity stops dropping around 1.020 then it is time to look at your grain bill/recipe to see how dextrinous the wort maybe, there just may not be enough fermentables left for the gravity to drop further. I would only repitch as a last resort, and in my experience lack of aeration/oxygenation is the number one culprit for stuck fermentations.I would definitely try repitching before saying fuhggit and bottling.
One of my recent batches (1.095 OG) got stuck at 1.042. Rousing the yeast didn't do anything. Adding yeast energizer took it to 1.040 after two days and stopped. Pitching a fresh 1L starter took it o 1.034 in two days and it's still bubbling away 5 days later.
I'd say go for it. Transfer carefully (avoid aeration) to a sanitized pot (since you are still going to be in The Zone), heat to 135, stir regularly to make sure it's all at 135, and let it sit for a bit. Chill quickly (you'll need to figure out how to do that in a sanitary fashion). Once it's chilled, you'll need to pitch some fresh yeast, but then you should be able to bottle it.I dropped 2 tablets of beano 6 days ago; so I'm sure the damage is done. Any chance I could salvage this batch by heating to 135 and back sweeten with a small amount of DME disolved in boiled water; or maybe steep some specialty grainss to regain some body to the beer? If so which approach would you recommend and how much for 5 gallons? I know this is a total crap shoot, but appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.
This is almost exactly how they make non-alcoholic beer.I'd say go for it. Transfer carefully (avoid aeration) to a sanitized pot (since you are still going to be in The Zone), heat to 135, stir regularly to make sure it's all at 135, and let it sit for a bit. Chill quickly (you'll need to figure out how to do that in a sanitary fashion). Once it's chilled, you'll need to pitch some fresh yeast, but then you should be able to bottle it.
But be careful with the bottles -- if you didn't denature enough of the enzyme, it could still convert more dextrins into fermentables, which your yeast will turn into CO2. Rubbermaid totes are good protection.
I use beano in some beers to dry them. I have never had any problems with it taking it "too far." If my Mash temp gets too high and my OG is too low I have found Beano to be a useful tool. I will try amylase powder to see how that works but don't panic about using Beano.I just checked the SG. To my surprise it was 1.012 -- exactly what I was shooting for and the sample tasted good. It's cloudy and could stand to age, but I'm afraid that the yeast could continue to ferment and dry the beer out. So I've decided to chill it in an effort to suspend fermentation. I'm thinking about adding some gelatin to clear.
Except that the boiling point of ethanol is 173*, and somebody above suggested that 135* was enough to denature the alpha galactosidase (beano). So, although the alcohol will likely be reduced, it should not be significant.This is almost exactly how they make non-alcoholic beer.