Understanding Pressure and Lines on Kegs

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Clementine

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So I just got my kegs, I got them from Keg Connection, just a heads up for those ordering from them they missed the order that came in on Paypal and I had to chase it up... then they left of the faucets off the order!

Anyway I got a picnic tap and a 48inch line to get me at least pouring, while I await the faucets. Now I downloaded a beer line calculator and I'm getting OK pours however I would like to understand the effect of line length and keg pressure.

It is correct that if I set the pressure to the desired CO2 volumes I want in my beer and then use adjust the line length to balance the pour rate.

So if my above assumption is correct, if you wish to change your CO2 volumes you have to adjust your beer line length???

Also what is a good pour rate?

Clem
 
In a nutshell, yes. In practice, in the year that I've had my keg setup, I've never changed the beer lines. I used the 4' lines that came with the kit, found them to be too short and bought some 10' lines. Using the 10' lines, I usually set my pressure to 8-12 psi @ 39F depending on style and haven't had any problems with pours. With the lower pressure, you may get a slower pour and that is where switching to the shorter lines could come in handy. I've read on here that some folks keep as many as 3 lengths around for different styles.
 
Yep. I just bought 2 7 foot lines to replace the 5 foot lines that came with my beer tower kit. Kind of a shame, as those 5 foot lines are nearly worthless unless you're serving very low carbed beer very cold. I wish I'd known to ask for longer lines when I ordered so I wouldn't have to go to the trouble of now changing the lines.
 
The only "disadvantage" to a too-long beer line is a slower pour. My 10 foot lines are working perfectly, while my earlier 5' and 6' lines would often have a bit of foaming on higher carbed beers, or pour with a big foamy head at times.

I'd go with longer lines immediately, even though the calculators tell you that you don't need them that long. You can calculate it out- the rise from the keg to the tap, and so on, but in my experience a 10' beer line works very well for every application. Keep in mind that you can always cut it if the beer is too slow for you- but you can't make it longer!
 
The only "disadvantage" to a too-long beer line is a slower pour. My 10 foot lines are working perfectly, while my earlier 5' and 6' lines would often have a bit of foaming on higher carbed beers, or pour with a big foamy head at times.

I'd go with longer lines immediately, even though the calculators tell you that you don't need them that long. You can calculate it out- the rise from the keg to the tap, and so on, but in my experience a 10' beer line works very well for every application. Keep in mind that you can always cut it if the beer is too slow for you- but you can't make it longer!

+1 Start with 10' and I think you'll be happy. Nothing is so frustrating as foamy beer.
 
I set my beer lines such that it pours well for the majority of my beers (2.4 volumes of CO2). For my cider and lagers, it pours a little faster but still not too foamy, and for my porters, it pours a little slower. No need to change your beer lines.
 
I have 5' lines in my kegerator, and we frequently get foamy beer when dispensing. We typically have anywhere from 8-12 psi after forced Carb. From what I've read here and other places, some are saying its the temperature from the cold kegs at the the bottom of the kegerator going thru the line to the top of the kegerator, where it may be slightly warmer, which may cause foamy beer, therefore put a fan in the kegerator for consistent temp thru-out. Yet again, others say its hose length, and changing to 10' lines will solve the problem. I'm not sure either way, whats the consensus here.
 
I have 5' lines in my kegerator, and we frequently get foamy beer when dispensing. We typically have anywhere from 8-12 psi after forced Carb. From what I've read here and other places, some are saying its the temperature from the cold kegs at the the bottom of the kegerator going thru the line to the top of the kegerator, where it may be slightly warmer, which may cause foamy beer, therefore put a fan in the kegerator for consistent temp thru-out. Yet again, others say its hose length, and changing to 10' lines will solve the problem. I'm not sure either way, whats the consensus here.

Well, both! Warm lines and cold beer will generally foam as well. But in my kegerator, the temperature difference between the beer and the lines (which are all inside the kegerator, not in a tower) is minimal. People with coffin boxes/towers may have foaming issues due to the temperature differential.
 
I have 5' lines in my kegerator, and we frequently get foamy beer when dispensing. We typically have anywhere from 8-12 psi after forced Carb. From what I've read here and other places, some are saying its the temperature from the cold kegs at the the bottom of the kegerator going thru the line to the top of the kegerator, where it may be slightly warmer, which may cause foamy beer, therefore put a fan in the kegerator for consistent temp thru-out. Yet again, others say its hose length, and changing to 10' lines will solve the problem. I'm not sure either way, whats the consensus here.

I was pouring all foam when it was set at 11psi. I just switched from 4' to 10' line and the problem is completely solved.
 
I have 5' lines in my kegerator, and we frequently get foamy beer when dispensing. We typically have anywhere from 8-12 psi after forced Carb. From what I've read here and other places, some are saying its the temperature from the cold kegs at the the bottom of the kegerator going thru the line to the top of the kegerator, where it may be slightly warmer, which may cause foamy beer, therefore put a fan in the kegerator for consistent temp thru-out. Yet again, others say its hose length, and changing to 10' lines will solve the problem. I'm not sure either way, whats the consensus here.

A longer hose will definitely help. Going from 5' to 10' is very dramatic. You might find that you need to cut it down from 10' to maybe 8' for an optimal pour. Get a 10' and cut it down after you test it so you only have to buy one hose.
 
Will longer lines also lead to flat beer? Will this resistance push co2 out of solution? That seems to be what is happening with my 25 ft accuflex lines. I am cutting 6 feet off them tonight
 
Will longer lines also lead to flat beer? Will this resistance push co2 out of solution? That seems to be what is happening with my 25 ft accuflex lines. I am cutting 6 feet off them tonight

I think the whole point of long, narrow lines is to keep the beer under pressure so it DOESN'T go flat...
 
Will longer lines also lead to flat beer? Will this resistance push co2 out of solution? That seems to be what is happening with my 25 ft accuflex lines. I am cutting 6 feet off them tonight

What ID are they? 3/16 or 1/4? Are you gravity feeding from your basement or something? Longer lines require higher serving pressure simply because it has to push a heavier amount of beer.
 
id is 3/16 and no gravity feed. The keg and lines are inside my fridge. I initially did 25 as people were reporting the line resistance on these lined lines was much less than a standard beer line
 
id is 3/16 and no gravity feed. The keg and lines are inside my fridge. I initially did 25 as people were reporting the line resistance on these lined lines was much less than a standard beer line

That sounds incredibly long.
 
The accuflex lines are lined with PET (I believe that's the line discussed elsewhere). The PET has a much lower coefficient of friction requiring a much longer line to recreate the resistance in a shorter non-coated line like most people use. He just has to adjust the line length down to accommodate his desired pour speed. The lining supposedly eliminates off flavors from the polymer from affecting the beer. Some people are more sensitive to it than others apparently.

I am with the others though. Grab 10 feet and cut it down if you don't like pour speed. Beyond that, foaming is likely due to temperature issues. I can't recall at the moment, but if I remember the optimum pour speed I'll come back and post that.
 
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