Understanding IBU bitterness?

[StarCityBrewMaster]

I am in the process of trying to nail down my "go to" IPA. When it comes to the bittering portion of the boil I am still trying to understand what the overall difference would be.

Let's say I want to create a beer that's around 65 IBUs, one that has the "punch you in the mouth" hop flavor and aroma but not a harsh bite of bitterness. I'm not saying bitterness can't be present, I just want the flavor and aroma to stand out a lot more.

So what would the difference be between these two beers?

Beer 1: 65.8 IBUs
1oz Columbus @ 60 [47.5 IBU]
1oz Chinook @ 15 [17.5 IBU]
1oz Cascade @ 1 [.8 IBU]

dry hopping with all 3


Beer 2: 65.8 IBUs
1/2 oz Columbus FWH 60 min boil [26.1 IBU]
1/2 oz Columbus @ 30 [17.9 IBU]
1.5 oz Cascade @ 15 [14.2 IBU]
2 oz Cascade @ 5 [7.6]

dry hopping both hops

Both are the same amount of IBU's but I assume that Beer 2 is going to give you tons of flavor and aroma without being overly bitter by splitting the bittering portion up between 60min and 30 min plus using half as FWH. Am I correct?

I see a lot of people say they strive to reach 90% of their IBUs with their bittering addition and then make up the other 10% with the late additions but 90% of IBUs as bittering seems like it would be harsh to me.

 

[BendBrewer]

Calculating IBU is really just a shot in the dark. Too many variables at play that you don't know the quantities of. Degradation of the hops, your hop utilization in your system. Sorry, but BeerSmith just doesn't know these numbers and the number they give you could or could not even be in the ball park.

I end up shooting for a calculated IBU in my Pale Ales of 70. In all actuality, they probably would come in at 45-50 if I had them tested. But I know, with my system that if I calculate it to 70, I'll end up with the bitterness that I am seeking.

Good hop aroma and flavor come from those late additions.

I would go with Beer 2 but would add another .25 oz of Columbus at 60 and add an ounce of Cascades at Flame Out. Those Flame Out or Knock Out Hops really add to the aroma and flavor.

 

[StarCityBrewMaster]

Damn, sucks to hear IBUs are a shot in the dark but it makes sense as I have been finding it difficult to get the desired IBU levels for certain beers.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale seems like it would be one of the easiest beers to clone and make at least a close comparable beer but I have yet to get the bitterness to even put mine in the ballpark. What I do come out with is good but just not close in taste.

 

[str8wire]

I might be wrong. I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken...and IBU is an IBU. Different beers with different hop schedules and the same IBUs will have the same bitterness just different flavor and aroma. So beer 1 and beer 2 will be exactly the same in terms of bitterness, but you might like one more than the other because of the flavor/aroma profile. It all mixes together to make up the "taste."

 

[dcp27]

I might be wrong. I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken...and IBU is an IBU. Different beers with different hop schedules and the same IBUs will have the same bitterness just different flavor and aroma. So beer 1 and beer 2 will be exactly the same in terms of bitterness, but you might like one more than the other because of the flavor/aroma profile. It all mixes together to make up the "taste."

while I agree with the rest, technically an IBU isn't an IBU. theres a number of different calculations that all produce different IBUs with the same schedule. on top of that, 70IBUs in a 1.040 OG is gunna taste much more bitter than 70IBUs in a 1.080 OG. even further, 70 IBUs in a 1.080 OG w/ a 1.01FG is gunna be more bitter than the same w/ a 1.02FG. moreso, using a hop with higher co-humulene levels will produce a harsher bitterness than one with a lower level, and one bittered with FWH or hop-bursted will also have a softer bite than a normal bittering add.

dont think of IBUs when you think of flavor/aroma, just think of it for balance against the malt

 

[Wiezer]

Damn, sucks to hear IBUs are a shot in the dark but it makes sense as I have been finding it difficult to get the desired IBU levels for certain beers.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale seems like it would be one of the easiest beers to clone and make at least a close comparable beer but I have yet to get the bitterness to even put mine in the ballpark. What I do come out with is good but just not close in taste.

This is the recipe I use and it's pretty much spot on.

-------------------------------
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
American Pale Ale

Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.32 gal
Boil Time: 60 min



Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.80 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 92.02 %
0.85 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.98 %
0.40 oz Magnum [15.40 %] (60 min) Hops 20.9 IBU
0.50 oz Pearle [7.50 %] (30 min) Hops 9.8 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [9.70 %] (10 min) Hops 6.0 IBU
1.50 oz Cascade [9.70 %] (0 min) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs SafAle American (DCL Yeast #S-05) Yeast-Ale


Mash at 154 for 60 min

 

[RCCOLA]

Let's say I want to create a beer that's around 65 IBUs, one that has the "punch you in the mouth" hop flavor and aroma but not a harsh bite of bitterness. I'm not saying bitterness can't be present, I just want the flavor and aroma to stand out a lot more.

If this is the goal then you need to try late-hopping. I love the results I'm getting from it.

When entering hops amts. start with your 0 min addition and get all your ibus from 0 min to 30 min additions.

This maximizes hop flavor/aroma without harsh bitterness.

Like this:

2ozs. at 0
2ozs. at 15
1oz. at 20
then (if you need it) make up the rest of your target ibus with the 30 min addition

Going backwards doesn't limit you to how much you can add for aroma and flavor.