Trying to make my electric brew day even lazier

[Brettomomyces]

So, I don't think I've ever seen this before, but does anyone have any ideas on how to start a Kal clone panel on a timer? I'd love to be able to set it to turn on and start heating real early (so I don't have to wake up at 5am just to flip the breaker) on a weekend or say maybe an hour before I leave work.

Edit: I fill the MT and HLT and then heat the HLT while running the MT through the herms coil, so it takes me roughly an hour and a half before I can dough in, a little longer if the garage is frigid.

 

[stlbeer]

Maybe with a BCS or a brewtroller where you have a browser based interface for your controller?

 

[LandoLincoln]

Yeah, that's pretty lazy, all righty.

To turn on a Kal clone control panel, all you need to do is turn a key.

To turn the key, all you need to do is apply clockwise pressure to the top of the key while simultaneously applying clockwise pressure to the bottom of the key.

To do that, you could drill holes into the top and bottom of the key and then attach string through the holes, and then run that string through some pulleys and then onto the pulleys attach weights. Once the weights apply simultaneous pressure, then the key would turn. But you'd have to put the weights on a movable platform, kinda like a hangman's trapdoor. So now all you have to do is figure out how to knock the trapdoor open at the correct time. A bowling ball on a track would do the trick.

 

[thefost]

I've done that with my BCS system. Works great, love my BCS!

 

[Rivenin]

possibly this?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=290

looks like it has a delay timer and it would match the other PIDs and such

 

[Brettomomyces]

Yeah, that's pretty lazy, all righty.

To turn on a Kal clone control panel, all you need to do is turn a key.

To turn the key, all you need to do is apply clockwise pressure to the top of the key while simultaneously applying clockwise pressure to the bottom of the key.

To do that, you could drill holes into the top and bottom of the key and then attach string through the holes, and then run that string through some pulleys and then onto the pulleys attach weights. Once the weights apply simultaneous pressure, then the key would turn. But you'd have to put the weights on a movable platform, kinda like a hangman's trapdoor. So now all you have to do is figure out how to knock the trapdoor open at the correct time. A bowling ball on a track would do the trick.

Well...it's not so much just turning the keg as it is turning the key when I'm a sleep or away

I need to get a bowling ball first though

I really meant something more along the lines of this http://www.smarthome.com/intermatic-t104-20-40a-electric-water-heater-timer-switch-dpst.html

or

http://www.smarthome.com/heavy-duty-outdoor-programmable-pool-and-spa-timer.html

Was just seeing if anyone else has gone down this path

 

[huntb]

Not being too familiar with the Kal Clone, what kind or current goes through the key? If it is low enough you could use a simple lighting timer

 

[grathan]

Instead of starting the Kal clone, you could buy a separate heat stick that plugs into a timer or smart plug, just to heat your strike water.

 

[Brettomomyces]

Not being too familiar with the Kal Clone, what kind or current goes through the key? If it is low enough you could use a simple lighting timer

It's 30A rated, so I'd need something a step up from those.

I really don't know anything about BCS, could I integrate it into an existing PID panel?

 

[LandoLincoln]

But seriously...all the power flowing to the rest of the control panel is controlled by a single contactor, and the coils that operate the contactor are powered by a small amount of amperage - small enough that a keyed switch can handle it. If you just replace the keyed switch with a timer that can operate Christmas lights or an aquarium pump, then you'd be in business.

 

[Brettomomyces]

But seriously...all the power flowing to the rest of the control panel is controlled by a single contactor, and the coils that operate the contactor are powered by a small amount of amperage - small enough that a keyed switch can handle it. If you just replace the keyed switch with a timer that can operate Christmas lights or an aquarium pump, then you'd be in business.

That makes a lot of sense. I'll look into that option some more. I was considering one of those 240, 40A ones I listed above because I could switch between always on and on at programmed times, and just wire it inline before the GFCI (I use a spa panel for this).

 

[JoshuaW]

It's 30A rated, so I'd need something a step up from those.

I really don't know anything about BCS, could I integrate it into an existing PID panel?

You definitely can. It would replace your existing PIDs. The BCS controls your relays just like the PIDs, and it even has PID algorithms you can use. It also has other control methods, like manual modes and such. You can of course control these from any Web browser.

There would be some very minimal modifications needed, you would need to power the BCS and add WiFi or run eithernet, but all the hard work is already done.

 

[stickyfinger]

Was thinking of doing something similar. I was looking at this timer to be placed in between my elec. panel and my brewery control panel:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCYPOM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The idea of a timer to control the on-off of the control panel seems like a smarter option though. Did you do something about this Brettomomyces?

 

[Blazinlow86]

I have a Kal clone and have considered doing the same thing. I also fill my HLT and MLT seperate and recirculate to get to temp same as you. I forgot about it as current my wife leaves the house 1-2 hours before I brew so she just turns the key on the way out and it's ready to go when I wake up. I can dough in and adjust ph and then go do the morning routine. Gets a full brew day done in 4ish hours this way and I can have the chores done at the same time. As others have said it's definitely doable as tge key switch is low load as far as I remember. Cheers

 

[stickyfinger]

i decided to just go with the water heater timer. i’ll wire my control panel receptacle into the timer. i just bypassed my interlock tonight after work.

 

[stickyfinger]

i decided to just go with the water heater timer. i’ll wire my control panel receptacle into the timer. i just bypassed my interlock tonight after work.

just wired it in. works perfectly and HIGHLY recommended!

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

this is what I have, dirt cheap and it works the same, the only thing thats different is you need an extra button for what's called the delay but I call it the start and top button
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KV65MS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[HornyGoatStout]

I use a tankless hot water heater with a commercial chip to fill my HLT with close to mash temp water, and my boil kettle with close to strike temp water. BCS PID to get them to and hold temp. It’s almost always at temp waiting for dough in while I’m still grinding grain, and I don’t have to worry about accidentally dry firing an element while I’m somewhere else completely.