True Brew IPA kit - When to 'actually' bottle?

[mixmasterob]

First ever attempt. The instructions say that I should bottle one week after fermentation begins...how dumb would I be to actually do it? Will the ABV go up if I leave it for a bit longer? My brew day was last Thursday (Nov. 12), when should I bottle to get the best possible results? Thanks a bunch.

 

[xcdude]

I just did the same kit. It spent 2 weeks in the primary and has been in the bottles for 4 weeks. The beer is just now coming around. FG never got down 1.014. It stopped at 1.020. I think I should have left in the primary longer to cut back on the bottle conditioning time.

 

[Warped04]

You should bottle when the beer is finished fermenting. Use your hydrometer to get the gravity, and don't bottle "after a certain amount of time."

 

[MistyMountainHops]

That's a good kit! I like to dry hop it with an oz of fuggle hops. It kicks it up a bit.

 

[Palefire]

You should bottle when the beer is finished fermenting. Use your hydrometer to get the gravity, and don't bottle "after a certain amount of time."

Well, I'm sure a bunch of other people will post here, but a good rule of thumb is to leave it in the fermenter for a few more weeks after fermentation is done. 2-3 is usually good. If your brew day was thursday, fermentation will probably finish up around Monday or Tuesday (though it may go longer or shorter - only a hydrometer will tell you). Leave it in the primary for another 2-3 weeks after that, then bottle.

I know it seems like a long time, especially for a first batch, but when you taste it you'll be glad you did!

 

[Warped04]

Well, I'm sure a bunch of other people will post here, but a good rule of thumb is to leave it in the fermenter for a few more weeks after fermentation is done.

I agree with you completely, but I was trying to simplify (and maybe over simplify) the point of waiting until the fermentation was compelete by not a "time factor" (mostly to avoid bottle bombs) as the original question was relating to time vs. "complete"

 

[Jaybird]

That's a good kit! I like to dry hop it with an oz of fuggle hops. It kicks it up a bit.

I sell a bunch of those kits in the store, I will suggest that the next one I sell one. I have been having people add some extra hops to this kit just because it seems a bit low on the IBU scale to be a true IPA. I think Simcoe and Cascade are the hop of choice to "kick it up a bit" but I will try the fuggle. Thanks for the tip.
As for the OP yes I would wait till its done. Every situation is going to be different. Temp, volume, OG it all changes to outcome. A hydrometer is the only "true" way to tell.
Cheers
Jay

 

[Palefire]

I agree with you completely, but I was trying to simplify (and maybe over simplify) the point of waiting until the fermentation was compelete by not a "time factor" (mostly to avoid bottle bombs) as the original question was relating to time vs. "complete"

Yeah, I figured ... definitely wasn't trying to contradict your advice, just trying to add to it!

 

[Warped04]

Yeah, I figured ... definitely wasn't trying to contradict your advice, just trying to add to it!

10-4, it was a very necessary addition.

 

[mixmasterob]

I think I am gonna dry hop w/ Simcoe pellets. I read some of the threads on dry hopping and came to the conclusion that it is safe to dry hop in primary. Being that I brewed last Thursday, when should I add the hop pellets? End of this week, then let sit for another week then bottle?

 

[Palefire]

My personal rec: wait at least 2-3 weeks before dry-hopping. Seriously; you need to let the yeast do their work. Don't know how big of a beer it is, but if it's an IPA, then it's probably 6-7% ABV? I'd maybe think about putting the pellets in, say, 2 weeks from today (Sunday). Leave them in for a week, then bottle.

That's just my $0.02, though - other people may have different ideas.

 

[mixmasterob]

That's a good kit! I like to dry hop it with an oz of fuggle hops. It kicks it up a bit.

I did a gravity reading today just to see where I was. I noticed that the oak chips that went in were not settled on the bottom and were floating on the surface. Will these eventually settle down? Other than that it seems to be progressing nicely. No longer bubbling from the air lock but hopefully is still fermenting as it read 1.020 (3% alcohol). Tasted good, nice color.

 

[xcdude]

The oak chips in mine stayed on the top. Never got below 1.020. Good luck.
Actually, I have done 2 True Brew kits and neither have gotten below 1.020.

 

[mixmasterob]

The oak chips in mine stayed on the top. Never got below 1.020. Good luck.
Actually, I have done 2 True Brew kits and neither have gotten below 1.020.

how long before you bottled?

 

[mixmasterob]

ended up adding an oz of centennial pellets tied up in a muslin bag. should i expect a pretty solid upgrade in aroma from centennial?

 

[mixmasterob]

anyone have a clue?

 

[Palefire]

ended up adding an oz of centennial pellets tied up in a muslin bag. should i expect a pretty solid upgrade in aroma from centennial?

Most likely yes, unless fermentation wasn't finished, in which case probably not. I know the airlock stopped bubbling, but unless fermentation is totally finished than dry-hopping won't add much (since fermentation does something-or-other that keeps the hop oils from infusing the beer. or something like that - someone else can probably provide a more technical explanation). That's why people usually wait a few weeks before dry hopping.

 

[mixmasterob]

i took readings for three days and it never moved passed 1.020.

 

[generikal]

I bought Centennial Pellet Hops - 1oz and I'm thinking about adding them into my first brew. From what I've read it's safe to add into primary and it's good to leave in for about a week. That all sounds about good/correct?

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[unionrdr]

Uh,...you did look at the date of the last post,right? Lots of necroposting lately...

 

[generikal]

yep, figured it may be better then starting a new topic tho.

Any advice?