triple bock help

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Pimp Juice

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2005
Messages
119
Reaction score
0
Location
San Leandro
Used 5 lbs of grain (forgot the combo), 10 lb of Malt syrup. After all the cooking was said and done I had an OG of 1.100. Use a high gravity german lager yeast. Let the primary sit out over night than threw it in the chest freezer set at 50 degrees. Primary is bubbling like crazy and is 5 degrees warmer than the freezer (probley the activity).

My question, after the 2 weeks in the primary I move it to the seconday for another 10 days @ 40 than the 3 day rest at room temp? Then Back down to 40 for 6 months, bottle @ what temp? Than age again at what temp? Thanks--
 
Bottle and let it sit for a couple of weeks at room temp (65-70oF). Otherwise, it won't carbonate. After that, chill it.

I did my 1st lager (a bock) this time last year and kept the bottles chilled, then wondered why there was no carbonation after three weeks time. I posted here and the nice people here told me what I just told you. :p That did the trick.

It turned out to be one of the best beers I've done so far. In fact, I'll be brewing it again tomorrow as an all-grain! :D
 
Whats the best way to do the Diacetyl Rests? I've heard right before it finishes in the primary. Then read that doing this can cause Autolysis and it better to move off the trub before the diacetyl rests. Guy at the brew store says to do the rest during the lagering period in the secondary...
 
Pimp Juice said:
My question, after the 2 weeks in the primary I move it to the seconday for another 10 days @ 40 than the 3 day rest at room temp? Then Back down to 40 for 6 months, bottle @ what temp? Than age again at what temp? Thanks--

Moving to a secondary at 40F is a bit of an unusual step, no idea what that would accomplish. The 'standard' way of doing a lager is to :

1) ferment to near completion at around 50F (as long in time as it takes)

2) raise to room-ish temps for 2-3 days for a diacetyl rest

3) slowly lower to 30-32 F for the actual lagering period. The longer the better.

4) bottle condition at 50F

Letting it lager at 30-32F after bottling won't hurt but won't help much either.
 
Pimp Juice said:
Whats the best way to do the Diacetyl Rests? I've heard right before it finishes in the primary. Then read that doing this can cause Autolysis and it better to move off the trub before the diacetyl rests. Guy at the brew store says to do the rest during the lagering period in the secondary...

It is usually better to do a diacetyl rest at the beginning of secondary for 1-2 days at around 68. The trub can increase the possibility of autolysis. I know people who do it at the end of the primary and have no problems but I wouldn't take any chances with a beer this big.

As for the timing. With high gravity lagers (>1.085) they always turn out great....but their timing is really varible. I usually follow what Noonan sez...approximately. So when the beer has fermented about 2/3 of the way (usually accompanied by the krausen dropping off) I move to a secondary and do the rest. Sometimes this is done in 1.5-2 wks while others have taken up to 1 month and was independent of the OG....but looking at the foam on top seemed to be a rough indicator on when to move.

With something this big....the longer you can lager the better!

Have fun!

-Eric
 
I am thinking let it Lager for 6 months, but I am afraid that it won't bottle carbonate if it sits that long. So I am planning for 2 months lagering, or when the airlock stops. Then bottle at room temp for a month than back to the fridge till its at least 6 months old.
 
Are you force carbonating? If so you have nothing to worry about. However, if you are bottle conditioning....about 1-2 days before botteling (you can do it the day of...make sure to mix) toss in some yeast from a starter (about 250-500 ml/or .5 - 1 pint for 5 gal). This will make sure you have yeast in solution to produce the CO2. Learned this one the hard way :).

-Eric
 
Back
Top