Torpedo Keg Buoy - Floating Dip Tube

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Carolina_Matt

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FYI, I saw this at Morebeer today and ordered 3 to ferment and serve in the same keg. Not sure if this should be in the Equipment, Kegging or Fermentation forum.

This looks like the Fermentasaurus version, but it comes with a metal dip tube and they say it has a better silicone tubing. It also looks similar to the Top Draw from Williams, but they've been out of stock for most of the last few months. So if you're looking for a Floating Dip Tube, there's another option out there. As of now, it's $17.99.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/floating-dip-tube-1.html
 
FYI, I saw this at Morebeer today and ordered 3 to ferment and serve in the same keg. Not sure if this should be in the Equipment, Kegging or Fermentation forum.

This looks like the Fermentasaurus version, but it comes with a metal dip tube and they say it has a better silicone tubing. It also looks similar to the Top Draw from Williams, but they've been out of stock for most of the last few months. So if you're looking for a Floating Dip Tube, there's another option out there. As of now, it's $17.99.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/floating-dip-tube-1.html
These are a slightly cheaper alternative if you don't mind trimming your liquid diptube off to 3" in length. I've been using a few of them for a while after I wasn't able to get them from Williams. https://www.ballandkeg.com/balls-up-floating-dip-tube.php
 
They need a screen addition for dry hopping loose in the keg like the Clear Beer system has. I have 2 of the Clear Beer floatie thingies and they're great. I'm looking to get more, but may get a couple of these and just get screens for my Clear Beer floatie thingies. This is the best idea anyone's come up with in a while homebrewing-wise. Regular diptubes just aren't practical in my mind anymore.
 
They need a screen addition for dry hopping loose in the keg like the Clear Beer system has. I have 2 of the Clear Beer floatie thingies and they're great. I'm looking to get more, but may get a couple of these and just get screens for my Clear Beer floatie thingies. This is the best idea anyone's come up with in a while homebrewing-wise. Regular diptubes just aren't practical in my mind anymore.
I dry hop in a bag or in a screen canister. I like to hang them with thread so they are only a few inches into the liquid and then after a few pints they are not in the liquid anymore. Then I can use the non-screened floating dip tube from Ballandkeg. Do you have issues with leaving your hops in the serving keg the whole time or do you closed transfer to another keg? If you dry hop loose, do you use less hops?
 
I'm not sure if this is a coincidence or not, but I've used this dip tube on two kegs so far. One keg was already carbonated and in my keezer. I installed the dip tube the day it arrived, and it definitely gave much clearer beer. But when I went away this past weekend, I went to pull a pint on Sunday and nothing came out. I pulled the prv and there was no sound. The headspace had no CO2, presumably due to a leak.

The second keg was a batch I brewed last Tuesday. I put the dip tube in there from the beginning so that it would be there during fermentation. I installed a blowoff tube to a growler of Star San, and there was no bubbling. On Friday (day 3) I put on the spunding valve, and it never got above 0 (I checked the spunding valve on an active keg and it shot up to 8-10 psi, so I know the spunding valve works).

So my point is, I seem to have leaks in both kegs where this is installed. I did not use keg lube on the o-ring, so I'll try that next time. But I did notice that the o-ring was a little bigger and wider than the o-ring on my normal dip tube. Anyway, I hope it's a coincidence, but it will put a damper on things if these somehow don't give airtight connections.
 
I have two kegs with the Clear Beer floating dip tube installed and love them. ...but because I have a torpedo keg without the floating dip tube, I thought I’d go with this.

I’ve not installed it yet. Based on the above I will use my own red silicone o-ring.
 
I dry hop in a bag or in a screen canister. I like to hang them with thread so they are only a few inches into the liquid and then after a few pints they are not in the liquid anymore. Then I can use the non-screened floating dip tube from Ballandkeg. Do you have issues with leaving your hops in the serving keg the whole time or do you closed transfer to another keg? If you dry hop loose, do you use less hops?
Well, I generally don't dry hop in the keg, and if I do, I usually put hops in a mesh bag and suspend it from the lid. It works like you are talking about where it sits in the beer for a bit, then once you drink enough, they're no long sitting in the beer. I like that but I also am wanting something easier to deal with. I guess the big thing to worry about is getting grassy flavors from dry hopping loose in the keg. You just can't win... I do love these floatie thingies though. I see no reason to have a rigid diptube ever again.
 
I see no reason to have a rigid diptube ever again.

:eek:


If I had a Clear Beer for my serving keg(s) I would probably try loose dry hopping. I've had my bag-tied-to-the-lid rig come loose before and also have a SS canister filter that I haven't rigged up anything to suspend it from the lid with, where hops have sat at the bottom, and haven't really noticed anything that I disliked from the last 10 pours of those kegs or anything. I'd imagine you could use less with the idea of increased exposure / utilization.
 
Looking at the photos on Morebeer's site, I wondered this:

I sometimes have foam pours because the temp of the beer at the bottom of my keezer is coldest, and the faucets, at the top, are warmest. Thus CO2 in the beer comes out as the beer at the top in the lines and through the faucet emergeds into the glass.

Makes me wonder if this would solve much of that problem, as it (at least initially) draws the warmest beer, not the coldest, and thus the temp differences would be lessened. That wouldn't solve the problem when the tube is at the bottom, but for probably half the keg....

BTW, I've got a fan in there so the problem is minimized, but could be even better I believe.
 
Looking at the photos on Morebeer's site, I wondered this:

I sometimes have foam pours because the temp of the beer at the bottom of my keezer is coldest, and the faucets, at the top, are warmest. Thus CO2 in the beer comes out as the beer at the top in the lines and through the faucet emergeds into the glass.

Makes me wonder if this would solve much of that problem, as it (at least initially) draws the warmest beer, not the coldest, and thus the temp differences would be lessened. That wouldn't solve the problem when the tube is at the bottom, but for probably half the keg....

BTW, I've got a fan in there so the problem is minimized, but could be even better I believe.
I, personally, have not noticed a difference as to foamier or less foamy pours between rigid diptubes vs. floatie thingies. I also have a fan in my kegerator (freezer) and if there's a difference in pours, it's not readily apparent on my system.
 
I'm not sure if this is a coincidence or not, but I've used this dip tube on two kegs so far. One keg was already carbonated and in my keezer. I installed the dip tube the day it arrived, and it definitely gave much clearer beer. But when I went away this past weekend, I went to pull a pint on Sunday and nothing came out. I pulled the prv and there was no sound. The headspace had no CO2, presumably due to a leak.

The second keg was a batch I brewed last Tuesday. I put the dip tube in there from the beginning so that it would be there during fermentation. I installed a blowoff tube to a growler of Star San, and there was no bubbling. On Friday (day 3) I put on the spunding valve, and it never got above 0 (I checked the spunding valve on an active keg and it shot up to 8-10 psi, so I know the spunding valve works).

So my point is, I seem to have leaks in both kegs where this is installed. I did not use keg lube on the o-ring, so I'll try that next time. But I did notice that the o-ring was a little bigger and wider than the o-ring on my normal dip tube. Anyway, I hope it's a coincidence, but it will put a damper on things if these somehow don't give airtight connections.
That's good to know, I did not have this issue with the https://www.ballandkeg.com/balls-up-floating-dip-tube.php
I guess that is one benefit of having to trim off the existing stainless dip tube to 3" as they recommend. It was pretty easy to do with a hacksaw.
 
That's good to know, I did not have this issue with the https://www.ballandkeg.com/balls-up-floating-dip-tube.php
I guess that is one benefit of having to trim off the existing stainless dip tube to 3" as they recommend. It was pretty easy to do with a hacksaw.
In my opinion, 3" is longer than necessary. Why cut off the diptube when you can just buy another gas tube and use that? Instead of ruining your liquid diptubes, you know, in case you ever want to use them again...
 
As a reference, here are a few pictures of a gas diptube from one of my existing kegs, and the dip tube that came with the Torpedo. I'm not sure if it's clear from the top picture, but the o-ring on the top (from the floating dip tube) is bigger than the o-ring on the bottom (from my existing keg).

Then in the second picture, you can see that the o-ring is pretty flush with the top of the gas dip tube, but it's a little bit wider than the torpedo's dip tube.

As I said, I'm not sure if that's why I have a leak. It could be a coincidence. But it jumped out at me that both kegs leaked, and the o-ring is bigger than I'm used to seeing.

IMG_20191030_095625985.jpg IMG_20191030_095723175.jpg IMG_20191030_095701219.jpg
 
As a reference, here are a few pictures of a gas diptube from one of my existing kegs, and the dip tube that came with the Torpedo. I'm not sure if it's clear from the top picture, but the o-ring on the top (from the floating dip tube) is bigger than the o-ring on the bottom (from my existing keg).

Then in the second picture, you can see that the o-ring is pretty flush with the top of the gas dip tube, but it's a little bit wider than the torpedo's dip tube.

As I said, I'm not sure if that's why I have a leak. It could be a coincidence. But it jumped out at me that both kegs leaked, and the o-ring is bigger than I'm used to seeing.

View attachment 650423 View attachment 650425 View attachment 650426
Unless your poppets are junk, I don't think the leak is coming from your post, at least the one you have hooked up with the floatie thingie. Check your PRV, lid, and gas post.
 
In my opinion, 3" is longer than necessary. Why cut off the diptube when you can just buy another gas tube and use that? Instead of ruining your liquid diptubes, you know, in case you ever want to use them again...
I guess I should have been a little more specific. The ballandkeg website indicates that you can cut your dip tube off to 3" or they also have this note: "A spare gas inlet dip tube can be used, but they are typically 1.5” in length and they are harder to reach inside the keg. A little water can be used to wet the silicone tubing to make it easier to slide on to the short dip tube."

I just cut mine off for ease of installation and because I figured I wouldn't be going back to long, rigid dip tubes.
 
I guess I should have been a little more specific. The ballandkeg website indicates that you can cut your dip tube off to 3" or they also have this note: "A spare gas inlet dip tube can be used, but they are typically 1.5” in length and they are harder to reach inside the keg. A little water can be used to wet the silicone tubing to make it easier to slide on to the short dip tube."

I just cut mine off for ease of installation and because I figured I wouldn't be going back to long, rigid dip tubes.
That's nonsense. The one that came with my Clear Beer floatie thingie is shorter than my regular gas diptubes. You really don't need them to be on there that far, a 1/2" to an inch maybe. Also, be smart and use starsan to connect it.
 
That's nonsense. The one that came with my Clear Beer floatie thingie is shorter than my regular gas diptubes. You really don't need them to be on there that far, a 1/2" to an inch maybe. Also, be smart and use starsan to connect it.
Maybe my hands are larger than yours, but I tried with a 1 1/2" gas post dip tube and it was very difficult to get it on. Cutting them to 3" made them much more accessible for my hand size. I would ask my wife to do it, but she's pretty much fed up with my homebrewing chatter. LOL
 
Maybe my hands are larger than yours, but I tried with a 1 1/2" gas post dip tube and it was very difficult to get it on. Cutting them to 3" made them much more accessible for my hand size. I would ask my wife to do it, but she's pretty much fed up with my homebrewing chatter. LOL
Well, you don't have to put your whole arm in the keg, just your hand. You got mammoth sized hands or what? I'd say mine are about average size.
 
I've been planning to ferment and bottle from a 10gal keg for some time. I was eyeing the other systems but as you said they have been out for a few months now. Picked that up and everything for a bow tie spunding valve build. Thanks.
 
Matt, how does fermenting and serving in the same keg work for you? I have been thinking about this for awhile.

I've only done a few batches, but so far I really like it. It's nice not having to transfer from a bucket to a keg, and I've noticed a lot more hop presence in my beer. I'm still working on the spunding valve, but overall it's been great.

With the batch I made on Friday, I was able to get right around 5 gallons in the keg (it filled up to just before the top of the keg starts to curve). I added some fermcap, and two days after pitching yeast it's bubbling away happily with no blow-off (yet).
 
Matt, how does fermenting and serving in the same keg work for you? I have been thinking about this for awhile.
Not Matt, but I can comment as well. I've been using this floating dip tube to ferment and serve the last couple IPA's. https://ballandkeg.com/balls-up-floating-dip-tube.php
I am really noticing an improvement in hop flavor and aroma. At this point I haven't come up with any drawbacks.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm really curious and maybe next batch or so I'll give it a try. Friday I was at more beer and they had one of the floatie thingies (LOL) so I bought one. Now I just need to take the plunge. :mug:
 
My first experiential impression of the Torpedo Keg Buoy is not a good one. I filled my keg with satinitizer and began pushing it out with CO2. About halfway thru the purge the sanitizer bucket began to sputter like it does when the purge is complete. I shook the keg and sanitizer began flowing again.

This happened three or four times during the purge. It was annoying to have to shake the keg to jostle the thing loose to begin flow again. If it does this with beer dispense I’ll not be happy.

This never happens with the other brand of floating dip tubes have. I may be in the market for some different tubing which I believe caused the Torpedo Keg Buoy to behave this way.
 
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My first experiential impression of the Torpedo Keg Buoy is not a good one. I filled my keg with satinitizer and began pushing it out with CO2. About halfway thru the purge the sanitizer bucket began to sputter like it does when the purge is complete. I shook the keg and sanitizer began flowing again.

This happened three or four times during the purge. It was annoying to have to shake the keg to jostle the thing loose to begin flow again. If it does this with beer dispense I’ll not be happy.

This never happens with the other brand of floating dip tubes have. I may be in the market for some different tubing which I believe caused the Torpedo Keg Buoy to behave this way.
It must be sticking to the side of the keg enough to hang up until you move it. If you can, add a little weight and it should work better. The Ballandkeg floating tubes have a fairly heavy piece of SS tubing in the end so I think that's why mine don't do the same thing.
 
I recently installed a torpedo keg buoy in a keg for the first time and experienced the same thing. It worked well for several pours after filling the keg, then started sputtering as I was filling a growler yesterday. I had to gently swirl the keg a couple times to get it flowing properly. The keg is about 3/4 full.

Has anyone found a fix for this with different tubing, added weight or otherwise? Does the Clear Beer system work better?
 
I have been using the Clear Beer system since they were introduced and now have in ten of my kegs.
I’ve never experienced dispensing issues, even In heavily hopped beers.
I highly recommend the Clear Beer over copycats/wannabe knockoffs!
 
As a reference, here are a few pictures of a gas diptube from one of my existing kegs, and the dip tube that came with the Torpedo. I'm not sure if it's clear from the top picture, but the o-ring on the top (from the floating dip tube) is bigger than the o-ring on the bottom (from my existing keg).

Then in the second picture, you can see that the o-ring is pretty flush with the top of the gas dip tube, but it's a little bit wider than the torpedo's dip tube.

As I said, I'm not sure if that's why I have a leak. It could be a coincidence. But it jumped out at me that both kegs leaked, and the o-ring is bigger than I'm used to seeing.

View attachment 650423 View attachment 650425 View attachment 650426

I've got 4x of these and wanted to chime in on the leak.. dbl check the entire silicone hose. I had one that was showing bubbles when xfering from fermenter, and straight foam when transferring a spunded bear. Turns out the tube had store a little right at where it meets the post. Probably from me inverting the keg to put it on the keg washer without disconnecting the tube, and cheap tubing i got off amazon.

Anyway, if there is a hole or small tear in the tubing or a loose connection at the post it will suck co2 in venturi style as you pull beer out. A small tear may be hard to spot because it will look fine unless inspected closely while bending the tubing.
 
I recently installed a torpedo keg buoy in a keg for the first time and experienced the same thing. It worked well for several pours after filling the keg, then started sputtering as I was filling a growler yesterday. I had to gently swirl the keg a couple times to get it flowing properly. The keg is about 3/4 full.

Has anyone found a fix for this with different tubing, added weight or otherwise? Does the Clear Beer system work better?

I've had a similar exp with the fermentasaurus onces... the little car-key style ring that attaches the weight to the little metal end can get caught in such a way that the float actually holds the end piece above the beer line. It binds up somehow if flipped around a certain way.

I put some lube on the piece and it worked much better. To fix perm I looked around and found a better ring to clamp shut and hold the float so that it won't bind up in any way/angle. Just a small piece of welding wire and it's held together more like a necklace chain is now, so there's no binding.
 
I've got 4x of these and wanted to chime in on the leak.. dbl check the entire silicone hose. I had one that was showing bubbles when xfering from fermenter, and straight foam when transferring a spunded bear. Turns out the tube had store a little right at where it meets the post. Probably from me inverting the keg to put it on the keg washer without disconnecting the tube, and cheap tubing i got off amazon.

Anyway, if there is a hole or small tear in the tubing or a loose connection at the post it will suck co2 in venturi style as you pull beer out. A small tear may be hard to spot because it will look fine unless inspected closely while bending the tubing.

I'll have to check it out when the keg kicks. I brewed a pale ale about 10 days ago, hooked up the spunding valve 3 days later, and it never moved. There was clearly a leak.

So I hooked it up to co2 yesterday, blasted at 30 psi, and beer was coming out of the beer-out post. I unscrewed it and lifted up the post, but the dip tube was jammed in so tight that I couldn't remove the post from it. For whatever reason, it seems like they made these dip tubes (and O-rings) just a little too big so they don't fit as well as the regular tubes.
 
It must be sticking to the side of the keg enough to hang up until you move it. If you can, add a little weight and it should work better. The Ballandkeg floating tubes have a fairly heavy piece of SS tubing in the end so I think that's why mine don't do the same thing.

I think I'll try adding weight. I have another keg buoy I haven't installed and it seems that the tubing is stiff enough that it could prop the inlet tube up, and that tube is very thin and light.
 
I installed my other keg buoy in a keg and filled it about 2/3 with water. I found the ball can be against the wall with the tube sticking above the water. I'll see if I can find a weight to put around the tube to help keep it submerged. Does anyone know if later versions of this may have thinner tubing or a heaver inlet tube?

upload_2020-2-4_17-25-45.png
 
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Here is what I added for weight - a stainless S-hook bent so it stays on the ring and pulls the end of the tube under the liquid surface. It works pretty well from a quick test in water - I can't pull the tube upward out of the water in the keg without it sinking back below. I may need to go slightly heavier on the weight though; it feels like this is right on the edge of heavy enough.

upload_2020-2-6_18-14-16.jpeg
 
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